Simon-S14

you dont live in the adelaide hills... some nights it gets wayyy chilly, great turbo weather but my oil temps struggled to get over 60 degrees, i covered the core with cardboard and they went up to 90... til i decided to fit a thermostat. couldnt be stuffed with cardboard

the difference is in the tune

looks good! specs?

The prob is the boost gauge and PFC boost gauge cannot be taken from the turbo compressor outlet, there is no vacuum in the turbo, and also there is massive pressure fluctuations. If you hook up a mechanical boost gauge, you'll see the needle dance around like crazy, and even worse when you back off, this is where your "spike" is coming from, doesnt mean the engine is acctually seeing 1.9 bar. Boost gauge needs to be taken from manifold, and EBC needs to be taken from turbo outlet.

is it a street car as well? If so, with a larger core, you'd be wise to fit a thermostat inline. It would pay to fit a larger core, you dont have to go too crazy, bu something bigger then you have now, aided with ducting would be great

its situated in a t piece with the oil press sender

compressed air is your friend. drill a hole, get the water out, blow air in there to get it all out and dry it out, put the light in an oven on low temp for a few mins. then silastic up the hole, and where the leak is (usually around the glass/plastic seal)

come to adelaide then, every 3rd R33 has that type of wing on it!

thats it, and the reverse light is that little light at the bottom of the bar, was actually legal like that in australia too. but i wouldnt do it thatway myself.

if you want response then go the thinner gasket BTW: you got all the answers you needed in your other threads, do your really need to start yet ANOTHER thread on your rb26

i did a search and found this, but it seems to have conflicting opinions

i know.. its got 4 doors

hmmm im not sure its the oil cooler, the fittings and hoses are quite a large diameter, its a B&M kit so its reasonable quality. I cant seem to find the oil press figs in the manual at all

you'd be better off using AU falcon thermo's and shroud and simply attach to your radiator and seal the edges.

http://www.bom.gov.au/products/IDS10034.shtml yeah... might be a coolish change coming in, who knows hope it turns out ok

sounds reasonable thats for sure, yes start getting all the parts now, so the AFM, injectors, fuel pump, ebc, and the PFC, get them all and then you can book it in with your tuner of choice to get all the parts installed and then tuned up. once you have all that you just add a turbo to make decent power. as for cold air intake, you can do that any time, you wont need a retune for it.

not jumping on any bandwagons here, but in SA where i live, a pod is legal so long it is mounted SECURELY to the car and isnt free to move around. boost controllers are not legal.

im gonna go with radiator cap not holding pressure. run the car up to temp, and with the cap on, squeeze the top rad hose, there should be pressure in the hose during normal operation. If there is not then the cap is not sealing, so the coolant will boil. (the pressure raises the boiling point of the water/coolant)

hit 8000 on the factory tacho or a digital read out? if factory tacho, then i wouldnt stress too much, some of these can be way out, but if its a digital read out then it would display the actual engine rpm, in which case, 8000 rpm is too much for a 25. take the cat to a haltech tuner and get them to set a 7400 rpm limit

well thats just the thing, you want 300 rwkw, so it doesnt matter which mod you do first as you will need to do ALL of the ones i listed in order to make that power. if you dont want 300 rwkw and want to stick with the stock turbo, then i'd just get a PFC and an EBC and a damn good tune., will make good power and last ages, and both mods you can keep for future upgrade. hope this helps, but you need to be clearer about what you want

i use a remapped RB20 ecu, runs the 25 just sweet, only thing it doesn't have is VCT control so we have this off, and tuned it well enough that there is no loss of power down low.

not with stock ecu without some sort of piggy back or rechip

if the ecu is chipped its possible that on 1 bar or just under it would make that sort of power my rb25 made 220 rwkw on 13 psi with FMIC, turbo back echaust, and a remap ecu, stock everything else.

i used to have covers on mine, til they both snapped off at 200 kph at mallala lol. heres an OLD pic

hmmm thought it might be that, mine has the VCT always off yet the dip remains..