Simon-S14

put up pics of your engine bay of the offending area's and someone might be able to offer a solution BTW its not my car, its twisted sil80 who posted further up... i did the smart thing and got a skyline in the first place lol

interesting! cheers for the insight

post pic of yours john all: would this work to give more room, by tilting it forward?

should have looked in the group buy section, fatz is selling the 50mm rads for 280 ish i think

cheers guys, AC is not a prob since its a drift car but for those doing a street car conversion it would be an issue thats for sure. Trent, whats the total cost for the whole kit?

good to hear it all worked out, pretty nasty turbo failure lol. did you inspect the cat? it's probably blocked up now.

did one ages ago and didnt have these issues before (or if i did, its too many bourbons ago and ive seem to have forgotten) but two questions, 1) RB is in, with a31 xmember, theres 15mm between the back of the motor and the firewall, and no room between the radiator and the motor for any cooling fans, the set up had AU fans on the rad before, they wont fit at all now, neither will the factory clutch fan, what have people done before? 2) box xmember, doesnt line up at all as expected, neither does a CA one or any other S13/R32 one, custom job needed? cheers guys.

not strange at all, the AC makes the motor work harder, the air con core in front of the radiator gets hot, and pases the hot air onto the radiator, theres extra heat under the bonnet... all taking its toll on the cooling system. If part of the cooling sys isnt working properly, then it all goes down hill.

geta set of coppers gapped to 0.8mm and you'll be laughing

nah the cooler sprayed black wont cause an issues at all, unless the core is also blocked, which is going to cause a major restriction to the radiator

i can yes, PM me

whatever that is, it aint pretty, however if thats only in a small section of the rad i doubt it would cause the probs that your having. but if its all over your radiator... well then yes its going to block flow big time

i had the stock BOV

did you test what i suggested?

its a simple DIY that takes all of 2 mins to do. read the oil control thread from sydney kid

thats the spirit only way to kill a dog box is to baby it hehe. they are not very nice for day to day duties thats for sure. Yours still going to be a street car?

stock gauges suck balls... mine would read fine then all of a sudden shoot past the 8, ,did this with both my rb20 and the 25 and they were two different senders. just put a electric gauge in, reads perfect now

heres a tip guys, when you spin out or off the track, make sure you look for oncoming cars already drifting before pulling back out. Ive had too many close calls at prac days with beginners not looking where they are going and im already entered and sliding... it isnt easy stopping a car at 140 kph when its already sideways

for an R33 it works like this. Belt $80-90 Plugs $25 Water Pump $110 Coolant $20 new belts (AC, PS, Alt) $90 Idler and tensioner $80 each then labour to do it, i charge $250 and in the last few months i have done dozens upon dozens of r33's and stagea's

dont baby a dog box thats all i can say

yeah your map sensor needs to be on manifold, then it will read vac and correct boost pressure. im fairly certain your "spiking" issues doesnt exist either, its just air fluctuations from the turbo causing the gauge to go spastic. i used to have an AVCR which uses the very same map sensor and solenoid as the PFC kit, and i had it hooked up to manifold and then to turbo outlet, and with stock turbo it said it was spiking to 1.5 bar... which is simply;y not true, the figures were fluctuating like crazy, i was only running 10 psi haha

so cheap and so tempting...

as am i

dont know how many times it needs to be said, tune it first, then make a decision after that

yuor gonna have to find it and not justy assume that its stopped. fill it up with oil; and then rev it to around 3000 rpm, have a look around the engine bay for leaks