Simon-S14

check the coil packs... make sure the electrodes are all there and that the area they sit in is nice and clean (pull the rubber boots off)

u got any ryan?

they "fit" and i have them in mine, but they are about 20mm too short on either side. So you can see the floorplan near where the door shuts. For most, this wouldnt be a problem, but if your a perfectionist then you'd best track some 4 door seats down.

in tank filter was replaced when i put a new pump in it, as was the engine bay filter, with pump out and lines off motor i blew both lines out with an air compressor, no blockages there. cant be a blockage in the fuel rail either... have swapped it over. without testing what the fuel pressure is i cant tell you an exact figure... but theres a hell of a lot more pressure in the feed line then there was with the dying pump. new tank coming soon, hard to find one here tho, no importers have any

me? or dr drift? if me i cant say i got one mate lol, resend if so

on neither rail. however blowing compressed air through the first rail blew all the fuel out no worries... yet the pump couldnt do it. on the 2nd rail.. minimal fuel comes out yet the car runs pretty much spot on now

thats too true mate, the factory pearl looks great in sunlight! im loving driving this around more then my car atm lmao...

Jeff from The Speed lab did my rb25 with R32 ecu (the easier and cheaper way then rechipping a 33 ecu) and i believe jeff said sam also does them. Couldnt be happer with the result... my 33 ecu is now used as a paperweight

My gf just got a stock as a rock r32 with an un modded rb20det. There has been some bad hesitation issues that i pin pointed to be a failing pump. i pulled the feed line off the fuel rail and put it into a container... in 30 seconds ti had only half filled a 600ml bottle... not enough flow at all. Put the feed back off and pulled the return line off the rail and nothing came out at all... fuel was going into the rail but not coming out.... this had me stumped but i figured the pump didnt have enough pressure to push it round the rail. So i took the pump out and its got a walbro in there, The tank however is rusting for some reason and the walbro filter was chockers full of brown crap... so cleaned the tank out best i could, chucked another fuel pump in primed the lines and what do ya know, heaps of fuel pressure in the feed line... thought i'd pull the return line off and see how much was flowing through.. and nothing! nothing coming out at all! hmmm tad weird i thought. I checked with my car (r32 w/ 25det in it) pulled the return line off and sure enough it pours out.. just as i thought it should. so i replaced the rail in the missus car, thinking the FPR might be stuffed, replaced injectors while i was at it with some known good ones, put it all back together and it was doing the exact same thing... started it up anyway and took it for a drive and now the car drives fine... no hesitation or stumbling like it had with the dying pump. havent pulled the return line off again.. but can anyone explain whats going on here?

Yeah its an 89 model. 8.5K was the price.. which was more then reasonable i think!

My gf had a couple of 31's.. and after many issues with old cars and stuff breaking and needing fixing week after week.. we decided to sell them. The plan was to buy a nicely maintained one.. or something along the lines of that. Anyway i did a service on this 32 4 door and it was for sale.. after looking over the car and seeing the price.. my gf had to buy it.. the car is mint! Stock as a rock factory manual turbo, just has new lowered springs and shocks in it.. drives very nice thats for sure... its nicer to drive then mine... until you floor it that is No major plans for it at this stage, maybe an exhaust and a cooler, but to be honest my gf is loving having power windows, climate control etc etc lol so its a big step up thats for sure. Will post some more pics later of both of them side by side in the sun... we only got it the other night

thanks "champ" but i sent a pm back outlining what i thought about the instructions and slide clutches. Basically for those that missed out. Slide clutches = bloody junk

RB30e headgasket About $20 from motor traders a lot morew if you ask for the RB25de gasket (they are the same but because the de one is an import they jack the price right up)

just to confirm 100% You can use R32 RB20 and R33 series 1 RB25 clutches, all are the same

VMX80 is fine for all round use. and yes will be fine with a 33 box. i just put some VMX80 + Nulon in my r33 box... hoping it does something! cause i cant be arsed paying 150 bucks for redline oil...

Wanna know if the fuel tanks in the R32's are the same between 2 and 4 doors... I assume they are as they all look pretty similar under the car.

Hear this ALL CERAMIC/BRASS MATERIALS WILL SHUDDER ON DOWNSHIFT IF ENGINE REVS ARE NOT MATCHED!! Its due to the nature of the materials used...doest matter how many pucks or whatever. if you do not rev match, then your pretty much slipping the clutch everytime you downchange. But, as for most driveable.. a 9 puck cushioned button will be the most driveable

Is the fuel tank in a 32 4 door the same size and shape + fit as a 32 2 door... i am assuming it is as it all looks the same under there, but you never know

for a 32 in SA the eyebrow height is 360 mm front and rear.... gay

looks exactally the same as a turbosmart bleed valve (early generation one) i used to have one and they do the basic job just fine.

still waiting on a reply to the pm i sent you Jason RE: slide clutch....

stronger and with larger driveshafts im lead to believe

holy f**king shit man thats bad news sim terribly sorry to hear! sounds like a well planned theft also, cant believe they took the head... f**kers! you got any lead on who it was? the cops helping much?

You're way off track mate, We're talking about OIL thermostats not water thermostats, And the nismo waster thermostat should fit no worries.

riding or prolonged slipping of the clutch will quickly kill a ceramic clutch, due to the nature of the materials they quickly heat up and cause damage to the surfaces. Avoid slipping a ceramic/brass button clutch at all costs!