Simon-S14

cheers guys! yeah i know they rated well in the motor comparo... and scored number 1 for wet weather braking... doesnt mean a whole heap in the real world tho i recjkon they will be good once ive done a few kms on them. What tyre pressures are people running them at for hard driving?

Anyone tried these maaxis tyres? i just bought a pair for the front and i have to say so far im not overly impressed with them, i had a set of worn toyo TPG's on there that felt really good, nice and direct with plenty of grip, The maxxis feel a bit vauge atm... but im going to give them a while to bed in (driving 800 kms to Winton for a track day on sat so that should do it) has anyone else tried them and had good experiences with them?

Both salad and i run the 27mm front and 24mm rear and its still quite oversteery, pretty good tho! i reckon the 30mm would be wayw ay way overkill and be a real bitch on the street too!

v8 super cars run full spools you know... in fact quite a lot of circuit cars run full or mini spools.

yes its castrol oil. The Nulon treatment is a friction modifier which improves shifts, reduces wear and tear etc etc. Read up on it HERE For the 25 box you'll need 3.8L of oil. So buy 4L of VMX80 for around 30 odd bucks and you'll be laughing

no to everything except the tailshaft 4 and 2 door's are mechanically the same except for the doors, so yes a 2 door shaft will fit, so long its a manual one. and you only need the front section anyway as the rear section is the same for both auto and manual.

VMX80 with nulon G70 box treatment, its a pretty good combo for nissan boxes. Dont need to worry about bedding in the box, the clutch however will need to have 500 kms of normal driving, you can drive it hard in gear just no clutch dumps or excessive slips off the line.

heavy duty organics are usually the stock organic clutch disk with a 20% stiffer pressureplate... so it should be slightly heavier then stock. They are very easy to drive, being an organic full face it will be like stock but have slightly more resistance to slipping. That said.. they wont take heaps of power`

if your doing this on the ground your asking for headf**ks.... get the car on a hoist with a few mates and it will make it 100X less stressfull.... but yes, that gearbox is one heavy puppy!

Schmenz: My plans for the car are to buy a cooler and exhaust at some stage... I have got plans for it but i dont think i will be doing too much with it while im paying off a loan Its quite nice having 2 4 door 32's at home... I would MUCH rather be in Simon's car than mine most of the time (his 25 makes me jealous )

that said, its not a very smooth curve for a stock turbo either... what boost?

i never said i was agreeing with the use of synthetic oils during run in. I was however suggesting that cheap mineral oil is just fine. Please tell me how a crap oil is not going to protect a bearing surface? vIm sure that your aware that when new bearings are used there are highs and lows on the surface, and part of the bed in process is to wear down the highs so that the surface is uniform. Im a mechanic myself, i know how to spell bores, typing is not my forte however.

no, so you have maybe 1 or two problems. start with the basics and work your way from there

all commodores and falcons do it quite badly... not sure how to eliminate it, but its the slack being taken up in the rear brakes being applied suddenly.

yes the idea is to purposely wear the engine in, that is after all what happenes during the bed in process. During the first few kms the rings must wear against the boors to ensure a proper seal, without this you'll never have a good performing engine. And there is nothing wrong with a cheap oil for running in motors, there is no difference in running 4 dollar oil or 40 dollar oil during the first 500 or so kms, as the oil is still going to get contaiminated from the wearing in of the various engine parts. Thats why it is crutial to change the oil as soon as the ben in is complete. As for running in motors... low revs and 4th gear is labouring the engine far to much too early in its life span, your best bet would be 3rd gear and go through hills continually accelerating and decelerating and varying the load via the throttle. But hey, your machinist knows best

ahh but you only need to remove the bottom one, not the upper clip. I use a pair of long nose plyers with the points bent inwards. works well

Ah hah, i got a little confused about that. So what needs to be done? The idle control vavle needs to be wired into pin 54 or what? are you able to give me a run down of what needs to be done so i can do it. cheers

Hey sam, I thought there must be some slight difference in the pin outs... i checked with these two pin outs and i cannot see where the difference is? care to elaborate? 20 http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/9/9b...ECU_Pinouts.jpg 25 http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/7/72...ECU_Pinouts.jpg

yep another confirm here... Run the cheapest oil possible.. the fact is you WANT engine wear to occur during the run in process as this is how rings and bearings bed in. Go grab some black and gold or some equally cheap shit and run that... once motors run in, drain it, change filter and run some decent oil through it.

the 32 ecu WILL work on series 2. Mine is a S1 Sam: have you got more info about the idle switch wiring? i havent done this and mine doesnt idle as it should some times

$2 from my work lol

theres no doubt about it, its the cheaper way as parts are cheaper, rather then the more expensive parts needed for a 33 ecu.

i turned the key off and on again. I even started the motor and had it running... with no fuel coming out the rail.... then it started pulsing out... not much at all really... very strange stuff.

no probs what so ever, plugs straight in, however the 20 ecu cannot run the VCT, was no real issue for me as with the remap done, timing changed, boost raised it still has bucket loads of torque down low anyway! Getting full boost at 2500 rpm, makes 215 rwkw on 0.9 bar with stock turbo. Drives like a dream, smooth clean power with awesome responce!

O rings are same in all nissan tanks. even for R31's etc. I stock em at my work,