Simon-S14

if its rattling in the bottom then no... theres no way of telling what it is til you strip it down. However make sure the rattle is in the bottom end and no the head, cause that could be something else all together

yeah ive driven around for a week or so with 2 spun bearings lol. However the more you run the engine with a spun bearing the more damage it does to other componants... you can kiss the crank and con rods good buy if you persits to drive it. however since its a 20... ditch your bottom end and get another block dirt cheap from a wreakers/on forums and be done with it

thanks for that mate i shall get stuck into it...

so basically i need to strip it down and clean it all out...

where about is this port located?

auto skylines have the plate on the firewall blanking off the master cyln location for manual cars, as for the whirte/yellow paint or whatever this doesnt mean much as a lot of this sort of gear is marked off on the production line...

pod filter will not cause this, unless its clogged to buggery, The issue may be however the AFM, somehow during your swapping for filters you might have damaged the AFM possible or got some dirt on the hot wire element, Try spraying this with carby cleaner or brake cleaner.

its common in situations where the oil pump is failing/weak, or theres a drop in pressure via a surge or something like that, soon as theres no oil pressure the bearings grab and spin... by by bottom end

thats exactally whats happening, master is building pressure, however the pushrod has plenty of slop in it after bleeding.... but it doesnt stay that way! hair pulling stuff

lol and you wanted to reuse the old RB20 one.....

Ive got this clutch hydralic issue that i thought i solved... Basically i can bleed the clutch system, then after a while of driving (say an hour or so) the engagement point gets higher and then with your foot off the peddle there is still pressure in the system and applying on the clutch fork causing the clutch to slip under hard accel Cracking the bleed nipple on the slave/master (i have ditched the damper in the middle) releases this pressure and all is good for another hour or so... Now heres the thing, i have rebuilt both the master and the slave, and adjusted the pushrod on the master, but with no solution. The only thing that made a real difference was using an air blower to blast all the lines out and chucking the damper in the bin... then the clutch was fine for a day or so then it was back to acting up. Slave cyln looks to be perfect, as does the master, so really. im stumped and sick of the damn issue!

whats the part number for new master and where do you get them for 55?

yes, turns out it was something else altogether (hence the box out/rebuild job)

I have for sale a used (<1000kms) Exedy clutch that Slide sells, Its rated to 300rwkw and is a non cushioned button clutch in as new condition. I have done very minimal kms on it and have pulled it out due to getting gbox rebuilt and getting a new OS twin plate. Thought i might as well since the box is out. Anyway its sitting around and might as well go. Asking $300, i'll post it anywhere in Aust. New price is $450 or so, so your saving $150 and the thing is pretty much brand new. PM me or email on simona31@internode.on.net Cheers Simon

get your bearings out

when i pull my finger out and put it together for him hahaha us 25 boys are not worried... showza wont know what to do with 300 rwkw or torque lmao!

no strength difference, however the DE block will not have oil squirters, if you wanted to fit these you'd haqve to drill and tap threads then fit them

better off using an RB20 ecu and plugging it straight in

i think you have the common misconception that drift is nothing more then a controlled powerslide around a corner.. maybe once upon a time in aust it was but these days it requires some decent suspension and tyres to get the most grip possible, Some of the cornering speeds carried while drifting these days is pretty bloody fast. back to the original question... im pretty happy with the power my car has, i just want a reliable package, so that means no turbo wheels falling off. Im not after big rwkw figures as this further pushes every single componant further away from the reliable margin...

for a moderator thats uncalled for. If you have a problem with drift theres no need to post in threads about it.

im considering this myself, any oidea how much it could cost?

need one asap

will you take $120 for the front bar and i'll pick it up?

doesnt mean they are balanced properly... or a balance weight could have fallen off. put two of the same tyres on the front and have a rebalance, that should clear things up

did you try inserting the alloy bushes, compressing them down and then undoing the bolts and trying the pineapples then? thats the only way i can see them fitting also lol