Simon-S14

swap the wires around on the pump then

google the R33 Manual. plenty around.

yeah i found it strange that the factory revlimit for a neo on my ecu was 6900 seems aweful low heh

my neo is currently limited to 7000... should i be reving it higher??

drift does see some large rpms sometimes... its always handy to have a few more rpm to extend the drift cause not every situation you are able to change up. changing the diff ratio doesnt always help either. i am looking at building an engine as a spare over a period of time and im just looking at ideas to what i can do with it. sure i could just put forged pistons and rods in it and be done with it but would be nice to go a little bit wilder on the set up. i do realise that this = money as well. as roy said i think one of the biggest issues is going to be the overspeeding of the ps pump, alt, water pump etc which should be easily reduced by a set of reduction pulleys.

hypothetical question here but whats involved in building a motor to spin to such RPM? Would be using a neo head for solid lifters but what about the bottom end? and go....

yup... i got to the 2nd line and gave up. if you want peoples help.. please post paragraphs

not being rude.. but it sounds like he could do with a helping hand. can be a fiddly job and some areas will cause fustration such as undoing the cap and then resealing the Oring.

yeah its usually around 25 a meter from repco

remove the trim on the rear shelf in the boot area and you'll see a cover, remove bolts. this shows the cap, plugs and hoses... remove all that. you will need something serious to undo the cap tho as they are usually tight as

dont think R34's have variable pump voltage like the 32's do. Someone can correct me on this but if thats the case i would just leave it as it is. as for fuel hose... most parts shops should have it.. ask for fuel proof EFI hose in 8mm ID

well i did it a few time on my engine til i was confident.. there is a few tricks involved in doing it. still.. 2 hours is slow me for me.. SR cams are even quicker can do them in an hour and 20 mins haha

oh right. ive done quite a lot of cam installs... i do it without taking the balancer off. it involves pulling the gears off the cams and putting them back on the same way. quite difficult and i dont recommend it for someone who hasnt done it as there is potential to get it wrong. it does however save me an hour of stuffing around. so worst case.. 3 hours to do it with balancer off.. still shouldnt be any more then 300 @100 an hour

you will need to solder on the plug that comes with the walbro.. cut the terminals off the stock pump and solder on the wire for plug... use heatshrink as elect tape will come off in the fuel. by fittings i mean hose clamps and fuel hose should you choose to replace them.. i would. get some fuel proof hose and run new length from the top cap to the pump with efi hose clamps either end.

takes 2 hours tops... even 100 an hour is a premium for a workshop whats the improper way?

if he doesnt answer the phone he's most likely working.. he's a one man operation atm. leave a sms with him or email on [email protected]

roughly 200-300 to install i would say.

its so mucch easier and less messy with less fuel in the tank.. it doesnt need to be empty it just needs to be low.. say 1/4 tank. DIY... its quite easy. remove the cap, unplug the wires and fuel lines. mark them so you know where they go back on. remove the pump assy. put it on a bench and basically copy the location and sock height in relation to the cradle with the new pump. take ya time and use quality fittings and wiring and you cant go wrong

there another muffler that is part of it. just not in the pic. you get the idea tho haha.

This. Andrew's level of workmanship is mindblowing... he will custom make anything that you request and it will last the life of the car unlike anything in mild steel. AM performance backs all his products and if they ever fail due to workmanship defects he will repair no worries. Heres a pic of a GTiR kit he makes and sells worldwide. fits in all factory location and clears everything.

holy thread revival!! yeah i kinda got put off the RB30 path... not because it dosnt work, cause it clearly does, but mainly because of packaging and weight dist reasons. running an RB25 neo motor that i picked up cheap.. stock internals and making very decent power reliably. pretty happy with it as it has all the power and torque i need and loves to rev. im now focusing on putting it all to the ground properly.

can get more made for 150 a set if your keen

which ones are you talking about mate? the alloy ones i put in? i had them made by a mate on a CNC machine

Selling my mount and camera... mount is basically brand new, comes with box and support stand. rrp on the mount is $300 ish depending on where you get it from. comes with cannon tape cam, with firewire cable and charger. its reliable as hell and takes decent footage.. cam is cheap enough not to worry about it if it gets damaged by having it outside the car. Price $280 FIRM. +postage if sending it

if you havent heard of jeese streeter you havent been in the import scene long enough haha. he's an aussie living in japan and sells parts for a living. 100% reliable and trustworthy and cheaper then any store since he doesnt charge much commission. http://jessestreeter.com/ send an email to him and ask for a price. ive bought stuff through him for years now.