dangerman4

have searched... basically i have some ringland issues so a full rebuild is in order. i have allready got forged pistons, and forged h beam rods, and have sent the motor off to get bored, and crank balanced etc. now my general question more refered to what else shoud i do while its apart. my car is a r33 s1 4 door auto. consists of full 3 inch exhaust turbo back high flow cat 600x300x80 fmic gt3076r-sp stainless exhaust manifold nismo 550cc injectors q45 afm power fc walbro pump sard fuel reg MV Automatic shift kit Any suggestions? cams?

if it sounds like a wrx then do a compression test.. ringlands are crazy little things

who has been down this road and what parts did you use to achieve what goals? advice would be apreciated.

was it just me or was the stock supra with a bigger turbo and a f**ked diff, only 4 seconds slower then the million dollar gtr around that track whats that about?

ill give you $1000 for the bottom end only

Does any one have any idea wats holding down the head on the drivers side front corner??

all i have to go on is the fact that its in and drives really nice.. it wont be tuned in time for the SA cruise on this weekend but if anyone with a 33 auto dosent believe me then pm me and i will gladly take you for a spin to prove the gearchanges are the same as the standard ecu..

the main point i was trying to make is there is a lot of people on here that say it wont work... yet they all drive manual skylines? hmmm!

will do.. As i said before 4doorsleeper has had a similar set up to mine running strong for ages, thats what made me try it..

the PFC only turned up this morning so its not tuned as such, but i went for a easy cruise up and around mclaren flat, just to make sure it would work fine and it did. im waiting for my new injectors and AFM to turn up before i get a tune..

but thats what im saying to you.. its not harsh at all.. it changes sweet...

a stupid question.. if the vl jatco and the r33 jatco have similar gears, and strength . Then why will the 33 auto shit itself, and not the vl? in theory it will be changing exactly the same as the vl box?

not trying to be harsh paul but have you ever tried it yourself? 4doorsleeper has had a PFC in his auto S1 R33 for ages and his Trans still works perfectly... There is a lot of people that have said it wont work but how many of you have ever tried it? Is it just the series 1 33 that will work and not the series 2? Not sure but i know that my car works fine.. it up shifts when it should, it down shifts when it should, kicks back when it should, so whats the prob? Speaking with mike from MV automatics, he seams to think the 33 auto are just as strong as the vl turbo auto, but if rebuilt with a few good bits inside then there bullet proof to well over 300 kw at the wheels...

isnt the auto controlled by the auto computer in the boot?

I ordered a new PFC from Greddy on here... "Thanks again Greddy" and did the usual unplug standard ecu . install power fc start car and drive really nice... i have a mv auto shift kit but other then that the auto is standard.. i would actually say it changes from third to overdrive smoother then the standard ecu.. all in all it works perfectly...

Just wondering how many non belivers there are? It works.... Yes r33 series 1 auto, running power FC and changing gears normally.. All the feedback i got previously was saying it wouldnt work... But i beg to differ.

PFC turned up All good... Cheers Fella

a lot of the australian rally championship guys use a bov that sounds like a chipmunk.. what do they use as they are plumbed back? does any one know what bov's sound nice when plumbed back into intake? cheers

ses not army sorry

havent diesels got more torque then petrols so therfore you can let the revs drop down lower without stalling it? weird.... driving a troopy that ways 4 tonne full of guys and equip, is completly different to driving a normal 4x4 waying 1.8 tonne.. sorry you were inthe army you must be right...

Some advice when 4wdriving - which you will no doubt learn at AHG is never let your revs down. You have to keep them high, especially in sandy/boggy terrain. If you drop off the revs you will get bogged. are you serious.... momentum will get you thru most things, so yes while you are going forward thats fine to keep the foot into it a little, but if you start really slowing down keeping the revs up will bury you to the diffs... the idea is to have a 4x4 with torque and if things start getting hairy then let it chug along and it will pull thru.. especially in sand.. failing that if you reverse gently back over your tracks and go forward then reverse go forward several times it makes the sand harder and each time you will go further forward... worst case if you do sit there spinning you wont sink and it will be a lot easier to winch yourself out. before telling people to hold it flat in sand maybe you should own your own 4wd and put your neck on the line before telling him how to get bogged... sorry for being harsh

so have you purchased a car yet? do you have any brand pref? ie toyota nissan etc how many people? do you want a ute or a wagon?

i have a split dump if ya want it

yea im in 33 gtst 1 let me know where and when cheers

sorry phil i ment 4 door sleeper