dangerman4

its all done.. i havent driven it yet, as i still have to put on all the heat wrap, and a heat shield. but it all fits and sounds really smooth. i will try and organise a tune for early next week.

it looks a lot worse then it actually is. there is about 2 inches between the turbo and the guard and also about 2 inches surrounding the dump pipe. once i cover it all in heat wrap and mount a stainless heat shield above and behind the dump it should'nt be an issue.

fits nice and neat.

the other trouble is this is made out of a 3 inch mandrel bend and a 2 inch mandrel bend. its a hell of a lot bigger then a normal low mount dump pipe. so room becomes an issue. the size of the pipes should more then compensate for the slight turbulance.. i hope

how does this look? fits in the right spot and plenty of room for the ox sensor

pics im off to my friendly stainless mandrel bend supplier.. need more bits.. back in a bit

in order... yes yes yes dont know no yes

sorry i just checked and my bad. 8mm is the dump flange bolts. the t3 base bolts are 10mm. and yes once it is spaced away from the manifold there is heaps of room. i will start taking some progress pics when i get home from work.

stainless low mount manifold.. im using 4 50 x 8mm studs and it all slides on nice.

I have got my hands on the latest release from garrett. i need a 25mm spacer between the turbo and the manifold, and i need to fabricate a dump pipe but apart from that everything i had for the gt30 will plumb straight in. I picked the .82 a/r so i will be very interesting to see the results. here's a couple of pics. looks good

we arnt talking about going bush. the main rd that follows the sea around the island is great. lots of dead critters from night driving but during the day its fine. it was just a suggestion, and i still think its better then driving to vic. just emagine the vic highway police when they see 20 skylines with sa plates coming thru. no thanks. and the ferry's do have tie down points everywhere. you only have to ask them and they will strap it down. in a month or two it wont be a issue anyway. calm seas..

im licenced to build anything but a house. Fences, Retaining walls, carports, sheds, pergolas, verandahs. any earth works or site prep. i also contract to the largest fencing company in south aus. cheers Darren 0407187834

what about a day trip to KI! im a little drunk so dont abuse me, but 30 lines boarding the ferry would be cool.

is there anyone running one of these turbos or heard of how they work on a rb25? or the new gt3582r-iw? what dramas would i have in fitting it in the standard position? cheers

theres a tag on the drivers side near where the output shaft housing bolts on to the trans. about six inches from where the tailshaft goes in. what does this tag say.

how much for cash?

that was for a r32 i think. there not the same box are they? my current box has been holding 270kws for a while now but im thinking of upgrading to a new gt3582r-iw when there released. I dont think the standard box will appreciate that much power, so i may as well get Mike to build a box properly including high stall etc, and have it ready to go.

im looking for a S1 r33 auto gtst trans with less then 100k on it. i want to build up a spare box with all the goodies from MV automatics. cheers

where you at?

John Moyle Engineering just off main nth rd. they have all the machinery, and experience to build motors on site and within 2 weeks. why take it to a dyno place and pay them a commision to get someone else to build your engine. it dosent make sense to me! The engine builder at John Moyle has been building speeedway and drag engines for 25 years. and definately knows his stuff.. They did a great job of my rb25 and kept in touch with me thru out the build process. They did all the machining on site except getting the crank ballanced. (Chris Milton) they installed my new JUN crank collar, ACL forged pistons, Eagle H beam rods, ARP main, big end, and head studs and then assembled the motor, all at a very good price.

well said but your getting a little off topic.. the thread is about getting results and what they would be so i have passed on my experience with the same set up. he can use it if he wishes i am only giving proven advice not hearsay, or guess work

sorry god all mighty but i think he will find that you are wrong and not me. yes correct about the ecu having a fit if the airflow gets to high, fuel cut was a simple term that i used so he would understand what i ment. at this point i will point out that unlike "paulr33" i actually own a 33 auto and have allready done all these mods and experienced what happens when you modify certain things. Paul has had no experience with r33 autos at all so shouldnt be giving out missleading advice that he know's nothing about. i bolted on a gt30 with a vg30 rear housing, which is rated to flow 500hp. with it the standard ecu worked fine as long as i stayed under 13 psi. yes the dyno showed it was running a little rich, but it still performed a lot better then the stock turbo. so with a standard vg30 turbo you wont have a drama if you stay under 13 psi as i have allready proved. as for not getting a new ecu. what a joke !!!! Paul why do you persist in telling people missleading information the 33 auto drives flawlesly with a standard ecu, or with a PFC. no if's, but's, or maybe's. IT WORKS there are plenty of people on here that have already done it, and not one person that has tried it has failed. i cant wait for you response God.

bolt the turbo on and keep it under 13 psi and you wont hit fuel cut with the standard ecu. approx 215kw's then buy a power fc from greddy on here for around $960 and put that on and get it tuned. approx 230 kw's then get a larger Air flow metre and some larger injector's 550cc etc $1000 then a re tune. approx 245kws then sell your turbo or get it converted to gt30, and the power will keep on climbing until the ringlands die. get a full rebuild with forged bits, and lots of arp studs. $6000 then sell your highflow and stick a 35 40 on it and go have some fun. 300 - 350kws my auto 33 is handling 280 kws ok. this is asuming you allready have all the basic mods.

have you taken one of your intercooler pipes of to see if your intercooler is full of oil?

ive got a s1 r33 turbo thats only done 35,000k's for $400 i have most of the plumbing etc if you need it