dangerman4

has anyone considered that Hitek dosent fudge figures, but John does know how to strap you car on properly. i know you all love shaun, but maybe he doesnt know any different so he keeps doing the same thing wrong. and whoever said he can tune PFC cars quicker with a hand controller then with the laptop. I cant see how thats possible.. yes he's a nice guy, But at the end of the day your not taking the car to your mates place, your taking it to a professional to get it tuned to its optimal performance and fuel economy throughout the whole rev range.

i think it does but cant remember 100%. it fitted perfectly...

genuine ford dump flange gasket $14

tru but i guess it depend on what they were thinking when they designed the one that you have shown. a lot of engineers design things in two dimensions and wont change unless forced too.

sorry fella i was very happy with the fit and the eagerness to try something that hadnt been done before (and the beer) sort of took over. and i got a little side tracked. before i thought about taking a pic it was all in and running.

now imagine the 2 triangles on either side between the 2 inch and the 3 inch were filled up with weld, then attacked with a die grinder and opened up to the same size as the exhaust housing.. problem fixed.... flows fine..

thats why you dont bother spending shit loads of money on the dump flange that they are using and just buy a flange from horsepowerinabox or similar. with my dump i have fully tig welded the 2 inch and the 3 inch to the flange then ground out all around the wasegate so it flows in nice and smooth, not just thru the 2 inch hole. it seems to work really well and i dont have any boost issues at all. i will try and find a pic

I was more concerned by the temp of the tyres. on shauns dyno they were melting, on the other dyno they were fine to touch. next time you run your car there feel your tyres! it maybe the reason why his dyno reads low....

From my experience with dyno's its more your rear tyres getting to hot that drops the power/ torque on the second run then heat soak. If you sit back and think about how much load is placed on your back tyres as there screaming away on a nearly smooth metal drum. also when you add in the fact that shaun straps your cars back and down, in my eyes thats pulling your rear wheels away from the front roller. how are you supposed to get good power to to the dyno with out getting up on top of the front roller for maximum traction? the only proof i have is i was with a friend at boostworx a couple of months ago and he was missing 56kws from the previous day on a different dyno. i felt the tyres after just one power run and they were slimy, and way to hot to use so we left. on the other hand hitek dyno straps your car very differently. the further your car goes forward the harder its forced onto the front roller, and you get consistent runs. the other day i was on there for over an hour and as we made changes the power kept rising. once i got to final reult we ran it up twice and both runs were within 1 kw of each other. yet the back tyres were still gripping stong and weren't slimy at all. end result 317kws. He also uses a laptop for tuning the power fc.

ive seen 273kws at the wheels, without much fine tuneing on the dyno. also with Auto,standard head and cams and standard plenum. with a few more goodys and on a manual it should get up to 290 / 300kws

Hi everyone.. as disco has allready mentioned a couple of times i wouldnt bother with the .63 a/r exhaust housing on a gt35 comp cover.. it will surge like a bitch... My old gt3071r-sp will be for sale shortly with custom dump and intake, i sent it back to gcg for a clean and tidy up so i can sell it and be assured it would do the job for a fellow SAU member. My cars going in tommorrow to MV automatics for a new upgraded shift kit install. 3rd gear solenoid has been giving me grief. easy fix. Hey cubes last time you were in the muppet bus it was only on around 240kws, if your not to busy over the weekend give me a ring and i will show you its potential after a tune. i quess i need someone to hold the video!!!

sound like opening a big can of worms to me... The auto is completely predictable, so why do you need buttons on the wheel? put it in drive and steer with the go pedal... Guy understands what i mean...

Grunt is all you need to go sideways not a clutch. thats cheating...

we were both running 98 octane pump fuel all the runs i did untill the last one knock was only reading up to 12, the last run was 32. the car had been on the dyno for over an hour so plenty of heat soak etc. im thinking about either changing front bars or attacking my bar with the 9 inch grinder to let more air to the intercooler. i know it will help to get the intake air as cold as possible. i was also thinking maybe a plazmaman plenum may reduce the heat soak from going over the engine.

can YOU spin the wheels in every gear?

he has a high mount 3540 ex gate standard motor but with a aftermarket plenum. and his is a manual. so im not to concerned i was just curious as to how he could run 24 deg when im only on 19? i guess the plenum would help keep the intake temp down a bit. and my exhaust is only a 3 inch straight thru. Johns happy with it in general.. it just comes down to more dollars on the dyno to get it optimal thru out the rev range. Im curious as to why nismoid hasnt made a comment or shared his wisdom with us!

i got a as new q45 from slide.. its only done a couple of thousand kays from new. a bit weird! it has a 4 pin plug instead of the usual 3! another member on here has been running up to 24 degrees advance, at less boost to make more power. thats why i asked

heres a question for any one who has made the 300kw mark or close to it! how much ignition timing are you running from 5000rpm and thru to redline? on the current tune im only running 18 - 19 degrees. thats why i have used so much boost to make the power. in a week or so i will put it back on the rollers with my new AFM and drop the boost, increase the fuel, and increase the timing up into the low 20 region. does anyone else know what timing i should aim for?

Maybe one of you auto owners should take a little incar vid to show others what all the fus is about. Stock turbo, yea it may be boaring but once the cars making some decent power the auto's become much more interesting. hmmm in car video huh.. who did you have in mind Joel?

ive got a auto but you cant have it! you should be able to find a 32 auto for less then $100 or a 33 auto for around $400

nissan... studs you can also get from sprints. but i highly recomend the genuine nissan locknuts. i think there about $30 but its a prick of a job and a $100 gasket that you dont want to leak. do it once and forget about it..

thats what i thought.. but apparently the brand new ones have 4 wires. i spent a couple of minutes with a multi metre and only wired up 3 of the 4 into the skyline loom and all fixed.. it took a good 20 minutes of driving to blow all the carbon/unburnt fuel out of the engine but now its back to normal. all good and nice and smooth.

my old q45 has been running fine but it has a 3 pin plug and the new q45 i have got has a 4 pin plug. does any one know where i can get a wiring diagram to change over to the new 4 pin plug? cars a r33 s1 gtst

as most auto owners would know its very hard to tune your car well in second. by unplugging the brown plug you can then tune all the cruising and off boost part of the map. as well as ramp it up consistently in the same gear every time. im not sure about the VL but by removing this plug it disables all gears apart from 3rd which is direct drive.

what do you mean by this? i never said you do start at WOT in second. but im sure a lot of people with more then 200 kws would be spinning the wheels in second.