dangerman4

No why do you ask?

If your looking at spending more money down the track on more mods to make the car go faster, then go straight for a PFC. All the hype about it not working well with the standard auto is well exagerated. I have owned a s1 r33 sedan now for a couple of years, it spent 12 months in the 220 - 270 kw range and now its up into the 320rwkw area and i still cant fault the auto. My box has a mv shift kit and a large trans cooler but thats it. as a precautionary messure my car is going in on the 7th dec for the full race trans build by MV autos, which will be somewhere around the $2500 - $3000 mark including hi stall, etc. when you compare how much guys making this sort of power spend on a decent clutch etc i think the 33 auto's are sold well short of what there capable of. anyone that coments on here against what i have just said, has never been in a r33 auto with a shift kit. Cubes can vouch for the shift quality, so argue with him. Sorry Joel but i need someone to back up my claims. Or ask 4doorsleeper. Cheers

my results added looks like a good comparison tool / program

maybe you should have asked this before you purchased them!

he hasnt once said that he cant afford the insurance, hey has only stated that he doesnt want to pay $5000 a year unless its the only option. you also forgot the part i mentioned about him renting the property out. It sounds like his parents must be fairly well off, otherwise they would have kicked his ass into next year for even thinking about waisting $25k its his call it just depends on if he wants to be a wealthy 25 yr old, or not. if you waste all your money now and wait 8 years to buy a house your going to need $100k as a deposit. PS Me my brother and 2 of my friends from high school all purchased our first houses before the age of 20. i have 6 other mates from the same group at school that wasted there money on cars. 2 have recently purchased there first homes for more then double what we payed 8 years ago and the other 4 are stuck renting. you do the math.

yes its in line. no idea!

not sure we didnt go past 1.35kgcm2 as it the boost wave got real ugly

as stated in the original post the boost is set at 1.6kgcm2 yet boost is only making 21 psi! how would boost cut be activating? does anyone have english instructions for the pfc boost kit? i have posted the dyno graph in the original post cheers

option 1 buy a r34 spend $20k and another $5000 a year on insurance,rego,tyres etc by the time your 20 if its still straight, with no accidents you will be out of pocket $40k. and i would hate to think how much $ if you were to write it off. If you damage your driving record anymore you will be paying $5000 or more for the next 10 years. at the end of the day you will be 20 and have spent the best part of $40000 and have a car thats only worth $10000 option 2 use the $25+k towards a deposit on a house? Rent it out, so it pays for itself. if you have saved this much in your working career of maybe 2 years, you should spend your money wisely. by the time you turn 20 you will have 30 grand equity in your house which you can use to by a r34 and the insurance will be half the price. You will then have a house and nice car. cars depreciate houses dont. Im suprised none of the other wise old members on here havent suggested it!

as its my wifes car she loves it, and my 2.5yr old daughter squeals out "More Boost Mum" Being a auto it gets very interesting very quickly.

this is with the gizzmo ebc fitted when i had it dynoed last time same dyno

Sorry Gary you have lost me. i have a bad headache. what ebc are you talking about? where do you recomend running the lines from for the ebc? should i get a fitting put into the outlet of the comp cover? or what? also should i plug the map sensor into the bov instead? cheers

that didnt help either we started at 50%

what do you mean learning value?

the map sensor i joined with a T fitting into the line to the EBC from the plenum and the wires plug directly into the pfc the solenoid is wired up as you suggested in your pfc thread. and checked with a multimeter. if i go any higher with the duty cycle it becomes even more unstable.

no noticeable signs of surge, didn't wave using the gizmo boost controller

im running a 18 pound actuator and a brand new PFC boost control kit. attached is a dyno print out showing the wave. i have installed a 2mm restrictor in the feed line to the solenoid and the results are on the printout. before i installed the restrictor it was even worse. the boost settings are on 1.6 kgm cm and the duty cycle is on 83 % its a built rb25det with the new gt3540-iw if i go any higher with the boost the wave gets bigger, and longer. does any one have any other solution? cheers Darren

sorry everyone im in Adelaide

how can it be constant power and switched earth if you say to high boost a standard car you ground the earth? if you have constant positive and constant (ground earth) then its going to be full open not opening and shutting 200 times a minute or whatever speed it works at? can you clarify for me?

where do you connect the solenoid wires on a r33 s1? i have read thru Pauls faq sheets but that doesnt tell me. from what he says it plugs in, but the plugs arnt even close to fitting, so do i have to chop an solder or what?

Sorry prices changed

turbo package sold price drop on remaining bits

pics added

i will take a few pics in the morning and put them up so you can have a look. it wont be hard

i have aquired a k type thermocoupler thingy for measuring intake air temps before and after the intercooler etc. when i opened the box i found it needs to be assembled. lots of resistors and capacitors etc. it comes with instructions but its been 12 years since ive come even close to a diode so i thought i might ask on here first before things turn to shit. obviously beer will be supplied and free use of it when completed to test your own car. Any one keen for a crack at it? please no hacks need repsond to the free bear part..