dangerman4

Hey guys Happy new year to all before chrisy i installed my poncams and got a tune expecting a nice fat midrange with a strong top end as the cams are designed to do. yet i was missing 50 kws from my previous tune with the standard cams. we got the pfc boost kit working well with a fairly constant 24 psi, but the dam thing just wouldnt make any power. i dont have a printout of the run, but it was making slightly more power down low then up past 4500 the old graph left it for dead. previous graph with gizzmo boost controller was 317 kws new tune with poncams and pfc ebc is around 270 kws gizmo tune was 26psi droping to 24 psi at redline pfc ebc was constant 24 psi to redline also the power was dropping off slightly past 7k whle with the standard cams it was still pulling hard at 7300 "ITS NOT THE CAM TIMING" i have checked, spun the motor and re checked. Just a thought. What have i changed between the old cam tune and the new tune? Poncams new 4 inch stainless intake from q45 to turbo PFC ebc Full Auto trans build by MV auto with a 3k high stall. So i wonder what difference the built trans is having on the dyno? Whos got a crystal ball thats works? Cheers Darren

i havent noticed Paul or Ash edit/remove the Auto ecu threads from the FI FAQ section! Paul you say you dont want to promote miss information, yet you dont encourage proven facts. why is this?

incase you have been living under a rock. lol http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=146489 have a read. and yes it will stop the speed limiter. but why are you going over it?

However if ur thinking to do stuff in the future...the emanage might be a better option. Injectors wont be an issue with you planned power levels...they will max out in my exp. when you get to about 280-300... anyway thats my exp. cos thats what I have done. I assume your talking horse power. if you meen kws at the wheels you would need 200 psi rail pressure to get 300 kws from the standard injectors. if its a series 1 dont waste your time with a piggy back, stick a MV AUTO shift kit and a PFC in it and get it tuned. you will never look back.

how many valves do the rb30 have? i think you may be running a little short!

I enjoy drivng manual cars dont get me wrong, but in the drivetrain manual / auto thread, i just counted 3 of the top 50 threads were issues with Autos the other 47 are problems with manuals or clutches. Yet all the manual drivers think that the autos are crap! Why? I havent redesigned the wheel, or used plutonium to make my car go faster, just sensible mods in the right order, and do i dare say i may acheive a low 11 or even maybe a high 10 sec quarter! Cheers

It extra stall feels awesome compared to before. But as i mentioned im trying to keep off the go pedal at the moment so everything can bed in well. Its very tempting as even half throttle it all starts happening! I wonder why more series 1 r33 auto owners havent gone down this rd? they missing out is all i can say.

So cubes are you still planning to change to an auto? If AIR ever re opens im going to need someone to run against!

The converter is rated at 2800rpm, but if pushed hard it should run up to 32-3300rpm before spining the tyres. Once tuned i will know what my boost is doing, but with the new cams im seeing boost coming on around 3500 and full boost by 4k so it should launch fairly hard if i can get traction. As the converter still retains the factory lock up i cant see how it will effect the fuel economy to much. it drives nothing like my old 3000rpm dominator converter in my old 327 chev. With normal driving It takes off like the standard converter maybe only 2-300 rpm higher, while the chev hi stall would rev to 25-2800 before even moving of the line. Anyway im driving a 340kw skyline not a Prius

Handy functions but, you would be opening a can of worms trying to make a toyota ecu control the nissan engine! Seriously why would you bother? the r33 gtst PFC works perfectly as it is. I have just picked my car up from MV automatics. He has done the whole box upgrade with high stall etc, it drives and changes gears like a brand new car. theres no harsh changes, just smooth direct shifts in every gear. Mike wants me to clock up a few kays then take it back in to check the line pressue etc then i can get the new poncams tuned on the dyno. im trying to keep off the loud pedal for a couuple of weeks so all the new bits get a chance to bed in properly. I was a little sceptical about how the high stall would effect drive quality, but if anything it only makes it smoother, and even more of a pleasure to drive. Go the Auto! Cheers Darren

auto pfc ?????

Hi Gary did any of the autos you have driven have a mv shift kit in them? As with my car there is certainly no violent changes either up or down. wheres SuperCubes when i need him? he can vouch for the shifts as Tangles has mentioned above. Or should i just give up and keep my findings to myself.

Hi Brendan ive spoken to mike and he is going to reuse the one allready in the car so if your keen to get your self some trans fluid and a gasket then the shift kit has your name on it. cheers

I have a S1 r33 auto which is running a built rb25 and a power fc. The car made over 200 kws for about 3 months then up to 270kws for 6 months and now its up into the 300 -340 kw range. Over this time i have posted several times of the benifits of running a pfc with the auto on a S1 r33 and each time i have been laughed at and shut down by numerous members and moderators on here that drive manuals. now im a bit confused as to why everyone comments that it wont work or will cause terminal damage to you trans in a matter of weeks, yet they have no proof of this ever happening. My car has been running a shift kit since not long after i imported the car, which totally relieves the need for the ecu to retard timing, as the shifts are clean and precise and happen in .5 second. My car has been serviced by Mike at MV automatics thruought its life in Australia, and he has never found a difference between autos with stock ecu or after market ecu once a shift kit is installed. On thursday i dropped my car off to mike for a full trans kit including high stall, kevlar clutches etc. he has since stripped my trans totally and cant find any flaws. So after 18 months of daily abuse all the bands etc are still happy! So if the No1 import trans builder in australia cant find a problem with running a PFC on a S1 R33 auto, then how can all the know it alls on here think otherwise. "Sydney kid" Gary has stated he has been in several autos running aftermarket management and the PFC was the best of them, but i dont think any of them had a shift kit installed. I believe if he was to drive my car himself, and then describe his findings on here everone may have a very different opinion of the whole PFC auto debate. also A couple of months ago i also tried helping people by letting them know how to lock there car in drive to tune on a dyno, but no one seemed interested. seeing as there is a hell of a lot of auto r33's out there i figured that evryone would want to know how to stop there cars kicking back to second on the dyno, as this can result in over reving, wheelspin, or broken straps and a bent car, let a lone if someone was standing in front of the car. i just think the auto ecu FAQ thread in " FI " is very misleading, and should be edited accordingly. Let me know your thoughts cheers Darren

so is 8000 a reliable setting for longevity? and yea i was thinking of adjusting to suit the power curve. where does that normally drop off with poncams in a 25?

Hi guys. i have just installed my new poncams into my s1 r33 gtst, and i was wondering what is a safe rev limit i should set the motor at? its running acl race pistons and eagle h beam rods with arp studs thru out. im running a n1 oil pump with jun collar, and all balanced etc the car has a gt3540r-iw and also is a auto. what are peoples thoughts on a safe limit? before cams 317kws and rev limit set at 7300rpm cheers Darren

well my poncams have arrived. Before i start! whats the story with unbolting the vct of the old cam and re installing on the new inlet cam? is there anything i should be aware of or just unbolt the front cover of the vct, and so forth! cheers darren

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=69947

Hey fella in regards to the link below! i hope you have spun the centre bearing cage around not left it as you have it in this picture. the oil feed should be at the top so the oil drain is at the bottom and gravity can help the oil escape back into your sump. when you get a new turbo the snails need to be adjusted to get everything lined up and the oil drain at the bottom. not on the side as you have in this pic.

And all on low boost!! Cheers for the support fella. And thanks for my first Stagea experience!

700hp gt3540 fits fine on a low mount setup! i think the to4z is rated at 750hp, so big turbs fit nice and neat down low as well

i have been real busy. i will take a pic tomorrow for you and post it up.

i think ther called a gt3082r-iw thats the new garret rear housing! gt3076r-iw is the old school one.

yep that thread loads fine. im running adsl2 so why does the auto ecu thread still take 5 min to load?

not good with excel never tried. what will a photo tell you? wont you need video to watch it move around the map? pm me some more details and i will do it after work.