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For Sale Up for sale is my standard turbo from my 1996 series 2 r33 gts-t Skyline (rb25det). The turbo has 145,000kms on it & the car was running great with this turbo. The turbo is in excellent condition for it's age and kms, the turbo seals are good, and the wheels have very minimal shaft play (expected with age). This sale is for the turbo ONLY, no outlet elbow, oil/water lines or gaskets are included in the sale. I prefer local pick-up (Gold Coast area) but will post at buyers expense.

Ok so I checked the coils and plugs, put it all back together and still same issue, heavy misfire on idle and with revving - very uneven. I did the sensor check on the FC hand controller and noticed that the NTR was indeed neutral gear (goes away when you put it in gear) but the ECS (ECCS) and IGN (Ignition) dots were still blacked out, and also the F/P light (Fuel Pump) light was on too. Anyone else have any suggestions as to what it might be?

Thanks Moodles; I've looked at the site before and I understand what the 3 letter codes mean in Engligh, just not what to do about it. Where specifically on the car/ engine bay do you look at if your hand controller is showing ECS and IGN error?

Don't know for sure had the valley cover on when the coolant spilled out. The bleed nipple is higher and nearby the inlet rocker cover so it's possible.

Ok, I recently noticed coolant spewing into the passenger footwell of my car, and after reading articles on SAU I realised the heater core was shagged, which a mechanic confirmed and explained I could just buy a join and bypass it until I can replace the core. After bypassing it with a sort of u-turn join I made up I was bleeding the cooling system of air using a funnel attached to the radiator and the bleed nipple. While I was bleeding the air from the bleed nipple, I dropped the screw and while I was trying to find it I had coolant spewing everywhere from the bleed hole. I shut it off after about 10-15 seconds when I realised I couldn't quickly find the screw. When I eventually found it, I carried on bleeding the system but noticed the car was missing at idle pretty heavily. When I then revved it, I noticed it missing heavily during revving too, and after letting the throttle off the car started idling like a bloody drag car - hunting up then nearly stalling etc. After discussing with a friend, we thought maybe some sensor had gotten wet with the coolant from the bleed nipple when I dropped the screw, so I left it a couple days and tried again today. I took the rocker valley cover and while idling from cold tried removing each coil pack plug to identify which cylinder was missing. Each cylinder's behaviour when removing and replacing the coil plug was the same, and the idle seemed better now that it was cold. I started driving it around the block and it was horrible, jerking and spitting constantly - basically undriveable. I checked the PFC hand controller sensor check and saw black dots on IGN, ECS and NTR. I think IGN is ignition, ECS is the ECCS and NTR is supposedly a neutral switch?!? Anyone got any ideas as to what the hell is going on with the car? It seems pretty strange that this problem has happened just as I'm dealing with the leaking heater core issue, but I guess it's possible...

Can this fit r33 gts-t?

I get where you're coming from, but from my point of view it's all a matter of cost now having spent what I have up until now. If I were to change intercoolers, I wouldn't want to buy another cheaper-range one and risk the same outcome even if it were the "not turnflow" type. To buy an intercooler that is more top shelf would cost closer to $1000. And then of course there is the obligatory retune and finger crossing. Whereas I could just make the engine more resistant to knock and allow timing to be added by just adding a nismo pump, selling my walbro one and retuning. This is the method that my tuner recommended despite me asking if he thought the intercooler was up to the task or not. By resisting knock I get my peace of mind, and by adding timing I can avoid forcing the standard coil packs to work hard to fire and create misfire as I have now. I would think he is in a pretty good position to comment on what he thinks I should add to the setup for best results (vs cost), having spent the time tuning the current setup that he has.

You mind if I ask what boost and fuel pump you have? Edit: I see you just posted boost

Now THAT is what I wanted to know. Similar setup to mine. Thanks boostn. Even if it was a little hotter than a big dollar cooler, I'm sure the less det-prone nature of the e85 would help counteract any extra inlet temp anyway. May not be quite as earth shatteringly powerful as big dollar parts but it will still be quicker than it is now and won't have this annoying misfire that it does now because of the timing not being so retarded with the ethanol fuel.

And is RHD Japan pretty well the best place to get these nismo pumps?

The logic & experiences of the split dump pipe being a restriction makes sense to me explained in that way. Thanks GTSTScott, Rolls and Birds for the explanation. In any case buying one of these is not a hugely expensive gamble for me, so I will just have to wait a while, get one & sell the current one, and see how it goes. Because retuning is fairly expensive though, I may want to make more changes than just the dump pipe to make more sure of getting more power. Finding out the dump didn't work & that it is indeed the FMIC after another retune would be a bit painful. Another point to note; when I was speaking with Tao, and he asked what intercooler I have, he was of the opinion that even having a FMIC running the normal path (not turnflow), the only coolers he had seen consistently perform were Plazmaman ones and PWR (which he has on the test car). I asked about Blitz turnflows and he does not think these are reliable either, and definitely not anything JJR.

This is exactly the problem I have. It may work and cost $1000 parts + $500 tuning. Or not... Or I could make the car more resistant to pinging by adding e85 (which the tuner believes is a good option) by simply taking a few jerry cans back to the dyno. But, like GTST Scott said, this may not work either.

Ok the pressure drop reasoning makes more sense. Unfortunately with not a great deal of mechanical skill I have no way of measuring this myself, and I've kind of blown the whole budget to get to this point so I can't really chase up more changes or buy any new parts for a while until the last splurge is paid off since it was unfortunately a bit higher than expected. I did think if any there would potentially be a restriction with the split dump pipe more-so than the intercooler, but my tuner mentioned neither, aside from the fact that my car seemed very more happy to detonate rather than co-operate. If I was to consider changing the intercooler, wouldn't I then be silly to purchase another JJ china made one, having sort of had the "you get what you pay for" mantra forced down my throat the first time around?

It's in the normal position. I have never seen a good reason to change where it sits. Your opinion on the IC is the same as Tao's which is fine, but my way of looking at it is this: Why would your cooler suggestion (both Just Jap - presumably very similarly made core) be better with pipes going one way instead of the other? If my inlet temps were off the chart wouldn't my tuner have noticed this? And if my dump pipe was a major source of restriction wouldn't it present itself with odd boost behavior?

I spoke at length with Tao about this after collecting the car and he believes that the intercooler is the main thing holding power back. I specifically asked my tuner if this was the cause and he doesn't think so. In fact he seemed pretty certain that this was around the best result that I could get with 98 fuel on this setup, despite me raising these other G3 results on the forums. I haven't got any inlet temp readings so can't confirm either way. What he did say is he had to spend the better part of 8 hours tuning, because initially the timing was normal, but after 2/3rds the way through the power run the car would ping, so he removed two degrees of timing & added fuel at that part. Then run again and the car would ping at a different point in the rev range. Remove timing etc again. Then because the timing was so retarded the coils were being put under much more strain be trying to fire at a much closer highest point of pressure ATDC, making the car was misfire. He then re-gapped the plugs and try again. Then up the boost and start seeing ping/misfire all over again. The car did not sound as though it was particularly easy to tune, but I don't know how hard or easy other G3 equipped cars have been to tune. My tuner's opinion is that I can reach 300kw probably, but only with e85 being that it is much more resistant to knock, and he feels that the way the car responded with the amount of timing he was adding and removing, the car can take another 6 degrees of timing at least with e85. Supporting mods: 3 Inch metal intake same width all the way z32 afm Nismo 740cc injectors 3 inch exhaust with good quality 100 cell cat, Turbo XS split dump pipe with WG divider plate removed Just jap turnflow cooler Walbro pump I was aware of the fact that the softer actuator would bleed a bit up top, and I'm fine with that, most of the results I've seen have been doing that if they're under 20 psi. I do not want to run over 20 psi, and I instructed the shop that I had chosen 18psi as my target. So when the turbo was being run up on the dyno 1st time they noticed the boost still climbing at 23 they stopped and took it off and called me to confirm. They bench tested it and found it started to move at 29 psi which Stao tells me is the required spring pressure to get around having any dip at high rpm in boost, however since the tuner directly saw it still climbing at 22-23 I told them not to use this because it was too far above my target (daily driver). I then organised with Stao to have him send a 14psi actuator which I originally wanted and his new rear housing flange plate design which I thought could go on at the same time. Unfortunately the actuator assembly arrived was sent in 2 parts, the actuator itself sent first, and the flange plate and gold thread that the actuator rod screws into sent second. Since my car was going on 4 weeks in the shop they had to get it finished & couldn't wait for the 2nd part to arrive, so they bolted up a 14psi actuator from MTQ and began tuning with that. So now I am considering whether to change to Stao's new rear flange plate myself (& what impact that might have on my tune since I can't afford any more tuning now). Then I just have to send back an unused flange plate and two unused actuators to Tao for the refund and go on my way to figure out the e85 conundrum, since more forum reading makes me think the Walbro won't do it happily. The life of modifying cars.

Gold Coast. I thought yours was making 300rwkw but was just lazy without VCT or something?

That is an ATR43 G3.

My result

What dimensions and offsets are those wheels Smaz?

I love this car. I'd seen your build thread but got to actually see it in person when I dropped my car off at ERD, looks even tougher in person. I can see why not everyone likes the white engine covers, but I think it really accents the rb26 outline nicely and the RPF1's are just perfect for 33 GTR's for some reason. Keep the pics and videos coming!

I doubt you'd have room for 2 resonators and 1 muffler, just change to a bigger resonator. My friend's r34 is like a vacuum cleaner when he's not getting up it and he has a huge resonator.

Thanks Daleo, the info was really descriptive & helpful. I'll let you know when I'm ready to look at getting a set.

Unbelievable. My car is getiing one fitted right now and is delayed because MTQ don't have any in stock right now.

That new rear housing looks way better for airflow for the wastegate. Have you had a chance to test it yet? Too bad I'm just getting my G3 fitted now