CruiseLiner

silastic as in gasket goo? the gtr workshop manual shows nothing so i didnt put anything except the cam rubber seals in. do u mean between the caps and the head on the joining surfaces? is this reccomended?

racing hart cr 18s ftw chrome dish with dark gunmetal centres mmmm even the silver look pretty sweet no one steal my idea now

put the entire 26 head on if u got one complete???

hey mate, the cams are brand new, they are a really tight fit into the head where the front end is but i just thought thats becuase they are new. its not the seal surfaces as both of them leak unfortunately i am thinking too much oil getting into the rear of the seal and cant drain out quick enough so its pushing past the seals. it was all fine when everything was stock (oil pump, cams, no restrictor, etc). thanks for the help mate

hey guys got my rb26 with jun oil pump and tomei head restrictor and jun cams. the problem is the front cam seals wont stop leaking for some reason. im seeing 90-100psi oil pressure when its cold, and around 75psi when its warm and at full revs. would these leak from too much pressure? or maybe the head is getting too little presure from the restrictor and its not pushing the oil seals out enough to seal correctly? anyone else have any ideas ? anyone had the same issues? ive replaced the seals like 4 times now trying to fix it and still the same problems. cheers

is the second one just before the rev limiter or fuel cut of some sort? my mates engine shows similair results close to redline but sk said its the result of the revlimiter. unsure on the low rpm one though.. sorry thats all i could think of

no there are not fuses under the dash kickpanel (only in pre vl models they were under there) its all in the engine bay passenger side corner. the boot release soleniod is probably stuffed they always stuff up. go to the boot and pull the wire off the boot release solenoid and check its getting power when the button is pressed. if it is then solenoid is dead, and they are like $5 from a wreckers. if it doesnt get power then the wiring is not connected correctly. there isnt a fuse for the boot release button that i can recall (havent owned a vl for over 2 years so my memory is about rusty)

i think he said "standard" rebuild

well im talking engine install, gearbox install, clutch master, custom length driveshaft labour, engine rebuild labour is gonna be 2k easy, diff install, all the wiring which i highly doubt u will find a 260rs harness. installing turbos, fuel pump, injectors, clutch, brakes and every other single aftermarket part on that list. trust me 10k sounds a lot but u go ask a few workshops, its not all bolt in jobs which is even more pricey. ive seen people get charged 5k labour to put a rb20 in a vl which is absolute peice of piss using stock parts, stock vl exhuast and all. my mate paid $5500 for 2560s turbos installed and the turbos are like 3k max. that was only an estimate btw, i have never paid a cent in labour in my life so i cant say from my personal experiences, but i know it aint cheap.

nah hes talking about on the end of the throttle shaft that go into the side of the tb's not the gasket surfaces. check out the pics and it shows ya which section he means

u dont "need" cams for that power? external gates on 2530s, why? hks dampener is pretty over the top unless u are going over 9000rpm. so with that out the way id go... 2530s power fc 044 pump in the tank 700-800cc injectors hks dumps r good 3.5' exhuast minimum jim berry clutches ive been told are the best value z32 afm's nismo regulator twin feed on your stock fuel rail i'd personally upgrade the sump to bigger capacity (9L or so and baffles) oil cooler is a good option u can get some poncams as mentioned but they are not "needed to make the power" like faid said 300awkw is gonna eventually need a rebuild and add some forged rods and pistons, n1 oil pump, oil restrictor in the head, acl bearings, a good head gasket and your pretty much set for good reliability. i cant see why 450rwhp isnt possible with those mods if the tuner knows what hes doing. the rebuild wont add power but it will help it last a long time with that power level. thats my 2c worth

dont forget about 10k in labour as well

i flew to melb from perth to look at a car advertised in that yard (in preston) as "immaculate" and it was a bunky dirty piece of shit and i let the guy know after costing us $1200 in airfares and accomodation. luckily i picked one up from a private seller and its alot cheaper and spotless. this wasnt a skyline though. they had tacked up soo much stuff on it and wanted the earth for it, dreaming idiots i say. the owner said my idea of immaculate is too fussy, what a knob, when it had big scratches, rattly motor, tint peeling off, paint damage under door handles, interior peices falling off and half glued on, plus other problems. my description would of been something like "f*kt".

nice ride mate looks sweet

what mods did the gto have? pretty stock?

engine, gearbox, clutch master/slave cylinders, intercooler, clutch (full front cut) = $6000 clutch upgrade = $1000+ gtr diff/axles/brake calipers = $1200+ custom length axle on drivers side = $400+??? gts4 passenger side driveshaft = $150+ braided brake lines to suit (stock line dont fit) = $200 fuel pump bosch 044 = $250 dump pipes/cat/cat back exhuast = $1300+ 2xpod filters = $150-$200 r33 handbrake setup = $250 power fc ecu/boost kit = $1200 z32 afm's = $400 or so cooler piping = $600+ intercooler upgrade = $250-$1400 (china vs jap brands) garrett 2860r turbos = $3200 550cc/700cc injectors = $800 sump upgrade with baffles and more capacity = $1000+ n1 oil pump (not sure if u need this) = $500 rebuild engine... machining = $600+ rings/bearings/timing belt/core plugs, etc = $1000+ forged pistons (good insurance for power) = $1300 brake rotors all round = $800 r33 brembo front calipers = $1000 suspension/swaybars/bushes = $2000 labour for engine build and engine/diff/gearbox/axle conversion = a damn lot bits and pieces (clamps/hoses/fittings/etc) = $1000 recess clutch booster into firewall = ???? wire up gtr engine wiring harness to stagea wiring = ??? thats just the conversion side of things that i could think of in 5 mins so theres plenty i forgot. so thats like $27150 without the labour and without ecu wiring and recessing the clutch booster. ill add other things as i remember

worn suspension bushes, something not bolted in tightly in the front end like suspension arms, etc. plenty of things it could be, does it do it everytime u brake now or only when braking really hard?

search around for a second set of tb's for a couple of hundred bucks at the most if thats the part u reckon is leaking. have u checked nissan to see if they have some sort of seal to replace in that part of the tb? ive never heard of them leaking from the rear only the gasket surface areas

hey mate, yer its abit of a pain in the arse to do it in the car with motor in, we did it by pulling the lines down under the car so they were hanging way below the car and did it that way, u gotta cut off the factory flares to be able to slide the fitting and little cup (-6 in size) over the metal line and then flare the end with a flaring kit. the flaring kit we bought from bunnings its made for flaring plumbing pipe so they only cost like $15 for the kit and it does heaps of different sizes. heres a pic of the fitting and the little cup, the big fitting slides over first and then the cup, and the metal flared pipe end has to end up bigger than the little cup fat end so it can seal against it. i dont have any pics of it installed, i will soon but not for a week or so. the first pic is the little cup sitting inside the bigger fitting. the 2nd one is the 2 fittings 3rd one is the way they go onto the metal line, so the big one first then the little one sits inside the big one and the bottom of the little one hangs below the big one. (as u can see in pic 1) hope it makes sense

get a special speedflow fitting that u slide over the metal line and then u gotta flare the metal line and then the special fitting will seal hard against the flare and has threads on it to screw into the other speedflow fitting. il try and get a pic for u later on if i can, its hard to explain in words

hey alex i gotta go out in a minute so ill write a detailed list of costs for conversion when i get home speak to u later mate

then what do i do? haha its gonna be a hell of alot easier to sell being manual and rb26 than a stock 25/auto setup, and its all installed except i'd change engine for a stock built one. trust me alex converting it all is simply not worth it. your better to find a 260rs with good body, etc and stuffed engine for cheap and rebuild it. how much is yours worth compared to a 260rs? whats the cash difference? the new rides a secret its not a nissan thats all i can say

its only an option at the moment, i just bought another car to daily drive so keeping 3 cars is just not feasible. i didnt think about it when i bought this new car but i coulda kept the stagea with relatively stock 26 for daily use but its too late now ill be keeping stagea for a good 6 months or more for sure and access my options once i take it down the strip. the lighter the car the less power i need to run better times, and a 26 pumping almost 700hp (stagea) compared to 500hp (in a light chassis) is a big difference. too many options and not enough money

dont go 2540s tooo big and laggy for stock capacity rb26's, 2530s only slightly less power but heaps heaps more midrange, trust me have a search of the forced induction area and 2530s are the best choice. apexi are not that good, garret are better and far cheaper i'd imagine. use proven products and u will be rewarded with a great setup. lag sucks arse i can tell u know, i would choose 2530s over 2540s for sure. they vary in power by like 10-20rwkw but the 40's lose bulk kw in midrange which is where its most critical. how often do u go full revs in 3rd and 4th gear racing people? the 30s would win down the 1/4 mile because they have better average power. hope it helps mate, search for posts on the 2860r turbos by the user "pnblight' he is the one who made 530rwhp or seomthing with them and swears by them, plus the threads will give u info on what size 2860's to choose. ive spoken to him in person a few times and he reckons they are best allround turbos on the market by far. hope it helps

its my stagea im talking about u seen pics ive posted heaps in the past, but with a stock rebuilt engine. im not selling (yet) im just wondering what it would be worth as i will be eventually putting my engine setup into a light car with full rollcage etc. so ill chuck another 26 in it but rebuild it prior to installing it as u all know how unreliable old rb26s are