CruiseLiner

nice find, looks nice and stable and smooth, looks like ive got some hope 260rs is it i'd imagine?

great work wade, just want to mention that an aftermarket ecu will be able to run exactly like a factory car if the tuner knows what he is doing, and u choose the right ecu. im not sure if your auto or manual. manual is easy as u can use any ecu, auto is rather tricky though. cheers

hey cyrus dont u reckon a dedicated sticky thread with stagea part numbers for parts us members buy would make it very easy and handy for others when it comes to ordering bits and pieces. im talking all parts like manual console surrounds, to these handles, and cargo covers, and anything inside or outside the stagea virtually a nissan fast part no. thread to save the nissan dealers from trying to find part no's on the Fast programs. good or bad idea? cheers Brad

haha, im not sure they would be ideal, its alot of force on the gearbox floorpan when handbrake is pulled up and also ska dont forget to use some big big washers on both sides to stop any chance of the nut pulling through the floorpan. for $50 i'd just buy the correct bracket and then u know its right and sitting in perfect position

hey ska u dont need to remove interior at all, just weld the bracket base onto the handbrake assembly to give it more supports over a greater area and bolt it in using some good sized nuts and bolts, mines done this way and the bracket distributes the pressure enough that the floor pan will not move or warp when u keep pulling handbrake on and off over time.

didnt u see the at the end? its not stock but its still a stagea

cheers mate thats pretty cheap i get trade price anyways, i was expecting $150 or so goin on normal nissan prices hehe let us know when u try the console in place and whether it fits exactly right. my handbrake cable lined up perfectly but its just sitting too low to put a console surround on the gear shifter area and be able to fully release the handle down to disengage it. i havent got a manual console to try either, i dread spendin $750 on a piece of plastic ill buy one once i stop buying engine parts. thanks

nice work mate hope all goes well and u enjoy it after the long wait enjoy that rb26 goodness

hey terminal nice work mate u found the torx key i see i was just wondering how much that bracket is worth from nissan new? i made my own but it still sits abit low in the console, and i might use that one if its easy to fit and also how do u know it will line up with console exactly? did u just drill new holes when u sat the bracket in the correct spot? does it sit up high enough to clear the console? the tailshaft is pretty easy to remove u just need 2 decent sized spanners to do it and watch ya knuckles cheers Brad

mine made 417rwhp on 13psi relatively stock mods

how about a full stand alone ecu like autronics or power fc and use a control box from mv automatics or whoever it was i remember reading in zoom about manual shifting the auto with buttons on the wheel instead of it shifting automatically. its a little black box that does something to make it non electric and full manual controllable. this means the ecu controls nothing in the gearbox as its now a manualised auto. dunno if people like that idea but id rather shift an auto manually than having a plain auto but thats just me sound reasonable or is the box still gonna shit itself? end of useless info

he means the actuator i bet, and i'd say the stock one is fine, but not 100% sure, sk will be able to answer that easily

nope vlt use normal r33 type shifter. ive used z32 and its 1000 times smoother than vlt boxes. vlt boxes are like 4wd patrol boxes the way they shift rough and the space between gears are too far apart. ive never used a r33 box so i cant comment.

the special bolt needs a torx set of allen key type things, i dont remember the exact size they are but they can be undone with multigrips if u have too or go buy a set of torq (or torx) keys i cant think of the exact name but its something like that.

where u get them from lee? how much?

anyone got bigger pics of that yellow one? and that red r34 front one looks hell nice

well said people always focus on the negatives rather than saying good on ya for trying. its more like "its gonna blow in 2 minutes, or why not just get a 26" is the usual comments. i notice the ones slaggin him in the first page havent come on and said f**k all now

can u get the names of the different types u use for different stages? ill be doing my other rb26/30 engine in the near future so any tips to shortcut things is a bonus

sounds like u done most of it then no my turbo comp cover isnt done (wasnt done on the low mount twins either), my hks turbo is a funny rough finish and it says hks t04z on the front and polishing around letters is a pain and half done jobs look worse than not doing it at all. this is the new engine bay (sorry the photo was taken with shockin light so its hard to see) i remove the rough casting marks with a round flapper sanding wheels on the drill, and sometimes a grinder with a flat sanding disk if its really rough. then use 240 grit sand paper, then 400 grit, then 600, and then 1200, then onto a hard buffing wheel, then a medium buffing wheel and then the polishing wheel (always using same compound on every step, white stuff, unsure of the name). cheers

plenty of vl commodores (rb30e and rb30et) engines have done over 500 000km, if not more. i think some skylines have done that much but 99% have wound back speedos to the magical 70 000km mark. i know one gtr in perth that has 270 000km on it and still going well. the small capacity engines need to rev alot more to get around and that wears out bearings and rings alot quicker than a 4L ford or 3.8L holden engine. most rb engines would have had a fairly hard life compared with the aussie company cars which are only autos mainly. thats my useless 2c worth

haha yer its not a quick process, ive had soo many mates come and see it and say oh ill do my rocker covers only to see them give up half way through and leave em dull as hell. should see how damn black my face and arms are after spending hours in front of the buffer. worst part is they are spotless until u install them and then touch them with oil/greasy hands then it marks em and they require a rebuff definately worth it in the end though, ive done, rocker covers, coil cover, alternator, intercooler, timing cover, intercooler piping, plenum, throttle bodies, throttle cable setup and anything else thats made of ally in the engine bay thats actually my old cars engine bay its now got a single turbo so i had to put all those twin turbo pipes away for good after all that effort. those intake pipes are hpc coated not polished thats why they aint shiny. so u gonna do your rocker covers and stuff now or u think its too much stuffing around???

this is all done at home on the buffer, god damn its a messy job but its soo much nicer than painting everything

good work mate sounds like the slanging matches are starting from the keyboard mechanics again. didnt u know they are all expert tuners.... in there dreams??? number 5 exhuast valves and spark plug do look pretty off colour compared to the others though. im just wondering why u would go for a n1 oil pump on an engine u said is rated for 1200hp??? i thought the n1 oil pumps were rated to no where near that? im not having a go like all these other members im just wondering thats all... thanks

my engine components are all billet and strong as anything its the block that cracked. just picked up the new n1 block from nissan on friday arvo definately alot more meat on this one so i cant see it cracking at anything under 1000hp or so $3900 worth (trade price) for the bare block. not cheap but its gonna be worth it

u need AWGNC34 for the autech!!! thats what u put in for the model code on nissan fast im pretty sure