GTAAAH

Ah i might do that then, i think ive heard some one mentioning the same thing somewhere before. Will just have to find some rubber/braided hose or something i can wrap any wiring in as a safeguard. Guess ill try take it off tonight, hopefully i can find a diy somewhere;

ahhh how friggin retarded is the search on this site, never any decent results zzZzz http://members.iinet.net.au/~robi/public_h...skylinebook.pdf Check that out its very handy, i think about page 30 has the instructions and codes and LED patterns

also interested in knowing if if a new dump pipe will fit under the stock shield alright.. I know its lower than the shield but i mean extra thickness extra width etc, might offset it to much or something

Just got a new turbo on my car and when they were removing the standard heatshield, two of the bolts snapped off. Its also very rusted and generally ugly Im putting a new dump pipe and a new cat on it in a few weeks so i thought i should probably replace the heatshield to. I have seen those turbo blankets but i dont think they'll fit on a low mount, will they? What other options do i have? Will it cost me more than $350? Is it likely to benefit me much? Modifications to car as in signature (note boost at 14 psi) Also wondering if its worthwhile to spend the extra $ and get a split dump? Thanks

meh i cant think of anything more retarded than these new laws Sweet.. i lose traction in the wet, and i get put down for "drifting" and my car gets clamped at south kensington station, next morning its got the crap keyed out of it and shaving creme in every orifice.. That in itself is f*kd.. They said they may tow they may clamp but id be hoping it was down to the drivers choice, which one happens. second offence you lose the car for 3 months.. thats probably not so bad.. But as some one said before they start trying to take peoples cars on the 3rd offence, ther'll be somehigh speed chases.. People gonna have like secondary drop down number plates, that cover there real ones and crap, james bond style. Also, if a guy gets pulled over on 3rd offence and theres 4 other blokes in the car, theres a pretty good chance that a cop or two will get hurt as soon as he says "im repossessing your car" Personally i would run before letting them take my car.. i wouldnt think about it being stupid, id just go "screw that they can take a burned out shell if anything" and drive..

id be asking for them to replace the turbo if they forgot to put the bleed valve on. Without the actuator hooked up it would just freeboost to insane rpm's, until it cooked itself

eww why did this get moved here, itll never get answered and it was perfectly relevant to forced induction performance as that is exactly the questions im asking about..

ahh ok thanks for that, wasnt sure if they will be ok, but i didnt think to check my AFR's either (assuming that if my injectors werent sufficient, my afr's would stray higher, than 12, which the bloke reckons is fine) Hmm that thick head gasket sounds like a pretty good idea, itd have to be hella chunky, but i wouldnt have thought of that. Its the same bloke who did my remap (pretty damn well) works at dr drift, who'll be doing this so i guess he's what i'd call a "good tuner" and he didnt say anything about low comp pistons so yeh, assuming he'll work with it I just wanted the car to see low 13's maybe high 12's eventually and im hoping with this new engine ill be able to achieve that, although i guess ill have to get rid of my newly installed 34 neo turbo and go for something bigger?

yeh ok, i know that good suspension and tyres as well as wheel size will make my 1/4's faster but, im not really interested in any of that. Only want to know how to drive really, not what to drive as i want my car to be capable on the street of what its capable of on the strip any one else? (in particular the first one about shift points)

ohh what, even in victoria? If i get canaried, they won't run it on a dyno ay? I haven't ever heard of any one getting defected for having engine modifications, so i wasnt to worried about that front. At least my turbo looks stock and such Anyone else wana answer a question or two?

Anyways, so im just wondering if im on my P-Plates and i put a rb25de in my skyline, will i still be able to drive it? Like i can do whatever i want to my rb20 (cept those 2 damn intake mods) but can i lob a rb25de in it? As an rb25de it wont have as much power as my rb20, and seeing as mods after stock dont count towards weight/tonne ratio's i cant tell if theres any problem with my putting my rb20 set up onto the 25de. Any suggestions? A rb25det conversion would be over power/weight and cost to much. The bloke who offered me the 25de conversion, said itll cost about 1k for motor and 1100 for installation (including swapping rb20 crap into rb25) He's got 2 skylines at his workshop (one which he owns) with the same mods in them and it all sounds pretty micky to me. Do many people opt for the non turbo conversion then swap the junk over or not? With my current set-up (check my siggy) will i be looking at a much faster car, or should i just buy a 2530 set up or something Also, on another topic, ive heard that the rb20's 270cc injectors limit power alot after 150rwkw, which i think is bs ( i thought was more like 190/200kw) any suggestions on this? thx in advance

Err, then how is it that a r32 gts-t with a 33/34 turbo on it, is faster than a gtst 33 or 34 with the same turbo and more technology? Assuming that 33/34 gts-t's run something like mid 14's in the quarter and your average 32 with a 33/34 turbo on it and minor mods will hit low 14's, maybe high 13's Also, 32 gtr's hit, 13.3, 13.2 ay? (the last page of this topic belongs in the wasteland -_-)

ahh ok cheers, any one else can answer a few questions it'd be much appreciated (think i asked to many ) in particular the first one about shift points

Ok so i got a r32 gts-t, with mods listed in my signature thingo, and was wondering a few things it hits peak kilowatts at 5800rpm, then drops about 3 kilowatts to about 6300rpm, So in 1st, 2nd 3rd, i should be shifting at 5800rpm? Other question is about taking off. Do i slip the clutch from like 5krpm to get moving, or drop the clutch high enough so that it spins once or twice (about 3.5krpm), or do i drop it lower so that it doesnt spin at all, or do i drop it high so that it spins for a bit then takes off, which? It starts coming onto boost at about 3krpm hits peak at about 4.2 Taking it to calder this weekend, also wondering what sort of time should i be expecting? I wanted a mid 13 pass, but the bloke who tuned it said more like 13.8-9. Its got SPMAXX dunlops on the back (45 series) on some 17X7 rims with plenty of tread. Im not sure about the suspension but it seems pretty hard unfortunately (i assume its that which gives me copious spinage into 2nd) Er also is it worthwile dropping my tyre pressure to like 28psi? its about 38 now.

ohh, hairy muff, sry half asleep

Hey the antenna is where? I was under the assumption that that little metal strip that runs down the middle of the front windscreen was the antenna;

err like that?

ahh ok did the water method with a cloth for like 10 minutes (first time i tried left it only like 1 minute), now alll i got is a sticky residue and a couple of little bits of paper, will try some wd40 to get thar crap off Err and are big kev products still around now? He died of a heartattack a few years back

ditto on this problem, cept i only noticed mine doing it after installing a FMIC, can only hear it coming from the right side of the engine bay, when hood is closed and it sounds shoddy, duno wat it is but sounds very crap

Yeh so i got canaried a while ago for having "racing slicks" on my car (were in fact SPMAXX's, slightly low on tread but still legal) Got that cleared, now the fugn canary won't come off. Ive got the majority of the paper off, but the underlying sticky stuff (sticky paper) and the glue stuff wont come off.. Ive tried, petrol, metho, scraping, nail polish remover and eucalyptus oil and besides getting high, had no success. Any one got any other suggestions on how to remove it? I was thinking of paying the $ to get it professionally cleaned and forwarding the bill to the victorian police or vicroads, any one reckon this could work?

Just curious as to reasons why he got 20 kilowatts more than me.. I have exactly the same mods as him (and a walbro) and i got only 135kw (was expecing 150 with a 34 turbo next week), would my far lower readings be because of different dyno setup or because of general engine wear? The guy at dr drift told me my engine was fine and my afr's were sweet so.. Just wondering.

hmm in a 60 litre tank im getting about 300 km's.. Thats about 20litres/100k's. Thats with a bit of hard driving a bit of relaxing so, go figure. Theres some threads around on checking your o2 sensor, that could be a contributing problem to your bad fuel economy, im to lazy to look em up, but your figures sound pretty good to me

Ahh ok, so im not expecting too much more lag then over the 33 turbo's that most people are running. thanks guys

Ohh thats fine then (not the rooted coils ), thanks alot dude, i was having second thoughts.

the big and small turbo thing works, i thought the twin turbo rz supra's ran them