GTAAAH

Whoa 300rwkw equates to possible 11's? Maybe i won't need a really expensive rebuild to satisfy my need for speed then, specially if a good nick rb26 can handle 300rwkw Thats awesome! thanks Edit: just had a look on that site, they've got a basic upgrades with basic engine components for 2900 or one which includes Venolia Pistons Nissan N1 rings REVS conrods Nissan Gasket set Tomeii Head and manifold Gasket sets Tomeii Sump Baffle ---<< eh? Hi Octane Rocker cover Baffles --<<< eh? for $6k assuming it'd take about 8 hours to do the work and 80 an hour so allow around 1k for the install.. Then Powerfc and a N1 oil pump, Z32 AFM, i could have a decent rebuild for like 8kish that i'm assuming will take 300rwkw alright Althought i don't know what the sump baffles or rocker cover baffles are (sounds like i probably wouldn't need to upgrade these though??) are they to stop oil being thrown around too much or wa

Actually i did a search and i couldn't really find that much. I searched for RB26 rebuild and most of the topics were just comparing cranks and stuff like that, none really had prices or expected power, and the rb26 topic is good but i don't know how power equates to accel on a rb26. I'll have a look around on google for pre-built engines, thx (also how much power = 1/4? 350kw = low 12's?) Oh and what will a fresh GTR 33 N1 handle power wise? Like i'm assuming a 10k rebuild will handle more than a 13k n1 engine

10-15 is a lil ouchy, but sort of what i was expecting Does anyone pre-build RB26's? Like so you can buy an already rebuilt one and drop it in? And also what kind of kilowatts will an rb26 rebuilt to standard spec with standard (though new) bits in it handle? (r34 RB26 for example, as it's new and would be low K's)

anyone else?

Ah really, i wasn't sure, although come to think of it 2530's can make 230rwkw on a gts-t, and thats about 80kw more than stock so i calculated 310awkw on a gtr, didn't measure the fact that it was a far better tuned 2.6 litre hehe. I thought i read somewhere that the 2530 wasn't being made anymore (eh) so i was looking at 2nd hand ones, but i guess i was wrong, mm, i bet new ones would cost a shiet load, i had a look through the performance thread but i didn't have any idea what kilowatts i would be wanting (as i don't know the correlation between kw's and accel) i'll look pnblight up cheers mate Hmmm his dyno graph = broken unfortunately, and i don't think he had those turboes on at the time 700HPGTR got 260.3kW @7183RPM on 1.4bar boost (20ish psi?) but he didn't mention a rebuild so maybe the engine was a lil tired.

Anyhow, i've just got the 11.5k i sold my R32 for and i don't mind spending some or all of that on the engine of the R32 GTR i'll be buying (it's not going to be a track/circuit car, it'll be lowered (a bit) with 19's and a nice paint job) Anyway how much will a rebuild cost me? I'm not talking rebuilt to standard i'm talking rebuilt to safe and to make some extra power. I can spend from $6-10k on the rebuild but i don't want overkill. Obviously a 10k rebuild will be alot better than a 6k one, but as it's a street car and i don't have huge power req's then i don't know if it's worth it. Anyway, 350 at all wheels would be cool but i don't know how power relates to 1/4 and 0-100 times on a r32 gtr, maybe someone could break it down a little (as i said it won't be very well set up (suspension, tires) for drag) e.g. 300awkw 350awkw 400awkw 450awkw (yeh, i know, dreaming) Then there's the matter of turboes and in that respect it would be great if a rebuild only set me back $6k because then i could spend the remaining 4 on a big turbo/s, whereas if it cost me all 10k i would have to run the standard ones for a while (which i don't think i would want to do on a freshly rebuilt engine) while i saved $ for the rest. Also for power-potency-money ratio am i better getting one big t04z or should i just get some 2530's and be happy (or some twin R33 high flows) assuming that any bigger than these my engine won't handle on a $6k rebuild.. Actually after looking at 2530's on other r32 gtr's it seems they'll be to small for 350awkw and i'm looking at around 300 max yeh? Also what supporting mods will i need.. So far i am guessing a Z32AFM a fuel pump and maybe a pressure reg, remapped ECU? (dunno if they are re-mappable) otherwise a powerFC or equivalent (wolf3d?) and i'm hoping standard fmic will be ok (bad experiences with fmic swapping) I would get the rebuild done at a performance shop that i trust, and would get a parts breakdown to know that everything i need is in the package. Keep in mind that while i know how an engine works i have no idea of what little things make up bigger things and also no idea of what power - accel ratio 32 gtr's have nor the actual build prices, as i've never owned one and never had a car rebuilt before. Cheers

1) Alot of people say that it reduces lagginess between gear shifts and i definitely noticed this, lost all stuttering when i was changing and it seems to have more revs on hand/harder go after changes 2) no it will not have any large effects, i have never seen proof of any excess wear (it's hard to prove, but even comparing turbo life between models with or without a bov, theres very little difference) If there was any wear it'd be on the comp wheel, but as i said theres not a noticeable amount of difference Also theres like a 15 page topic on blocking off BOV's you should probably read, majority of arguments are for blocking it off (from a performance aspect) but then there are alot of arguments against blocking it off (the sound) If you want alot of sound = POD if you don't want much = Stock airbox

h22a engine.. would run pretty quick in a civic;; they normally do b16 transplants, 1.6's and there pretty quick, 2.2 litre out of a prelude in a 900 kilogram car with some chunky tyres it would see some decent tyres.. love to see it torque steering into the nearest wall though, if it stacks i wanna see a video of some sort, OK?!

nice hehe

Yeh ok, oh well, thats fine waz, your replies are never helpful anyway. When i said pod in a stock box, i meant i would make up a new pickup from one of the old fmic holes using some of that flexi hose.. anyway thanks for your opinions. Edit: well.. sorta thanks, a few were helpful, alot were wankers =)

Ohhh and also, if your sick of hearing it: A Change forums B Dont read it Stop whining like girls FFS

zzzzzzzzzzzzzz Didnt ask for info about whether its beneficial, just wanted to know where to buy em, dun need people forcing there opinions.

hmm nah ive had the top off the airbox, and it sounds quite pox, no note. Want the airbox so that it looks legal not otherwise. Have you put a pod in a standard box before? A number of people said its got exactly the same induction notes, just a lil quieter. Thats why i wanted it As for the Standard air box.. go have a look at it, its got quite a few hard angles, and the induction pipe is tiny. Wouldnt exactly be difficult to improve on. Ohh ive heard from quite a few performance shops, that a pod in a box is a decent upgrade, why does GTST care whether i want one? for all i know GTST could be an 11 year old kid so yeh, dont REALLY care about his opinion in this or any matter

Yehh, if you make these for 32's count me in (and if your ever down victoria way, ill be happy for you to borow my car for a few hours to go nuts measuring)

i got the neo on mine, comes onto boost at about 2800, hits top boost at about 4200.. in 2nd, in 1st i spose it would be about 3000 and 4500. Not much laggier than stock

except for turbo'ed 33's or did they just ban all 33's because its hard to discern whether its turbo or not ?

So dont post, clearly your posts arent achieving anything if you have to make your sarcastic comments as often as you admit to it =) Edit: Just thought i'd mention that I like the sound of my POD.. i wana keep it.. And the r32 stock box is hella restrictive if any one has actually seen one

I know some one whos had pots and pans move around, knives bury themselves up to the handle in doors, lights that all turn on when she left the house and voices that talk to her. She had originally been into clarvoiyance and some other spiritual stuff, and thats why they were bothering her, she just chucked away all her crap, when she got religious and they buggered off. Not that i know much, i thought garlic and a stake was meant to fix them

haha nankangs, ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

Thats crazy power, would have some nasty torque steer... gets me thinking though. how much you guys reckon a b16a transplant in the line would set me back =/

holy crap, i checked on google and some other search engines when you posted the question, none had any information at all, now yahoo and every1 got info on him dying... not much though, id still be careful of a hoax, brocky edition cars are gona go through the roof Friday September 8, 03:09 PM Driver killed in WA crash may be Peter Brock By 7News Enlarge image A leading racing driver has reportedly died in a racing accident in Western Australia. There are unconfirmed reports that the dead man is nine-times Bathurst 1000 winner Peter Brock. Sky News reported the accident took place in the Targa rally event in WA and involved one car, which crashed into a tree. Brock was driving a 5.7 litre Chevrolet V8 Daytona sports car in the Targa race. The 1150kg car was built as a modern interpretation of the 1965 Shelby Daytona, which dominated the World Sports Car Championship that year. Brock's co-driver was to be Mick Hone, a Melbourne motorcycle dealer who was team manager for the Works Suzuki team in 2000. Save to MyWebEmail note "may"

yeh, need hellavalot of power to start them in 2nd gear , ive seen a guy do it in a pretty much stock supra before, but i got no chance in the line, modified as it is. Was a struggle hitting it from 1st to 2nd, whilst keeping the wheels spinning stock, haven't tried recently, performance tyres +90kph not moving = about $50 of tyre every 10 seconds =( Lucky i get free tyres from dunlop/goodyear i suppose Speaking of rooted clutches, is mine shagged if i cant hit it into 3rd from 2nd whilst still spinning? My mates got a property up at diamondcreek, and even on wet pavement, i couldnt hit it into 3rd, it would just rev out like it was in neutral, bummed clutch or to-be-expected?

12 is about max, maybe 14 if it was tuned correctly (or if it was on a rb20), but you still wouldnt be looking at much life, 15 psi is just to high for a ceramic turbo hope that helps

I think most get around 350-400, for every day driving (although on a highways ive had 450), i personally get 300 if i push the tank hard or 350 if i take it real easy, had same fuel economy before and after it was modified

so many godamn tree hugging hippies on here!! But yeh, its nor worth it, go the hi-flow it wont be that much of an impedance