GTAAAH

Thats how the old one was set up (2 posts above) and setting it up like that again it was boosting to infinity, so i assumed something in it was shot and thats why we grabbed one of these http://www.littlereds.co.nz/cart.php?p=details&pid=26 (from autobarn) The T piece only works 1 way, so im assuming theres a gate in the T piece that routes air to the controller, or something i don't know, but it's definitely installed as the instructions said (T piece bleeds boost to the controller which is in cabin and the outlet is for excess gasses) .. You guys are saying the T piece is superfluous and it should look like: and not like http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=m...controllqy8.jpg correct?

Yeh, the instructions that come with it say something along the lines of "pute hose on and run to place where air can dissipate" Wouldnt the outlet port be the same port that the ball and spring ball controllers have, as in the port on top that opens to relieve the pressure? I read the instructions a few times, damn confusing.

Yeh, the ball valve type (which i used to have) doesn't need a T piece, it is the T piece. This controller uses the t piece so that you can run the controller into the cabin and adjust it from inside (has a looong hose) thanks anyways, anyone else?

http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=m...controllqy8.jpg There, i drew my set up

Nah, i've tried a new piece of hose just in case the old one had a split (it's only about 20 cm long) The plumbing is the same as it was before, one nipple off the actuator source and the other from a pipe that leads from the turbo out, just b4 the intercooler. Confusing

I recently had to take the boost controller of my old car and replacing said controller with a piece of rubber hosing. Now i'm trying to reinstall the controller and im having problems. The boost is far toooo high, even with the screw all the way out (it's one of those $22 ones from ceffies thread) im using an after market boost controller and if i kept accelerating it looks like it'd head past 1.5 bar (normally it sits at 1 bar). I thought the controller was stuffed so i went and bought a new autotechnica one from autobarn and after installing it have found the same problem. Even on 1 click (lowest setting) it boosts really high and same story when it's set to off. Now i reinstalled the hose (got rid of old hose that had controller T-Pieced) and it's back to normal again (boosting to around 5-7 PSI for some reason) Any help would be cool it's confusing me Mods are: R34 turbo 3" turbo back split dump Pod remap Dr drift styles thats about it

Hehe funny how the only people who are saying R33's look best is the people who own them, guess they gotta justify spending the money. My preference: (1) R32 < Best overall, guards are nice and chunky and front bar looks nice, rear is sweet looking (2) R34 < I .. All wings and guards and lips and stuff, nothing seems to flare out much, have seen some nice GTT's that stand out but most GTR's sorta look alike. Front of most looks phat and the back especially rear lights is nice (3) R33 < Nothing much to like about them.. See them far too much and the GTS-T's are fugly as (especially series 1.. omg..) Even the GTR resembles a magna VRX or a mid 90's model camry (you'd be surprised how often i get them mixed) They're far too heavy and irregardless of the RB25 the 33 gts-t is only JUST faster than the RB20 powered 32 gts-t which i find disturbing.

Yeh i heard this too, was so funny, the news report i heard mentioned that it was a fastback 1980 corona.. I guess because of word association this would leave more people to believe it was a fast car or something? I dunno but my 50 year old dad laughed for like 10 minutes on hearing it was some old guy in a piece of crap car

Nahh it hadn't been issued whilst i was the owner, EPA arrived in the mail at his house about a week ago, and it went straight to him but he was saying that it was meant for the car whilst the previous owner was driving it, if that makes sense. Was weird though at the actual EPA joint the guy had my name down so they confused themselves somewheres

The Guy's been trying to sell this for ages, i think it's about $20k cheaper than his original listing too. Someone put him out of his misery

Thought i'd mention that my mate got his EPA done and they checked mods under bonnet (checked for pod, (has fmic) and boost controller. Also looked at the exhaust and asked if my mate put it on prior to the test (it's this tiny gay thing i had re-installed that i bought for an exhaust noise test) my mate said nah this was on it when i bought it, last owner was 1 who got the epa. Then did the emissions test (we didnt have time to find a stock ecu so we didn't bother) and that passed luckily Dunno what he's going to say next time though

Airbag deploying mechanism's can't be very well set up then.. If the chunk of aluminium in question happens to be the radiator of the other car and not your own fmic you have to worry whether it will go off? Least my car is safe.. the crumple zone is whatever i hit.. hopefully a nice little korean car with a decent safety rating that will smoosh to diminish impact

Hmm RE: Engineers cert.. I got told i need an engineers cert to pass the hole that had been cut under the battery tray for fmic pipes (TMU), but when i took it into a mechanic they said it was ok and he gave me rwc (was selling the car).. i took that to vicroads and it was all cleared fine. So perhaps the system doesn't actually note whether you need engineers cert?

Ah ok thanks for that! Edit: It's as simple as transferring the looms over right?

Ah ok thats good to hear. Will the remapped ecu be a problem running on the silvia for that day, or is it better if the guy finds another way of getting to work tomorrow and we just leave the silvia ECU-less until they can be swapped back?

My mate got EPA'd in my old skyline and needs to take it into macleod to get it all checked out (everything else has been swapped to standard stuff so he'll pass). The ECU that's currently in it was remapped to suit a rb20 with a r34 turbo, 14 psi boost and a split dump/3" exhaust. We want to swap the ECU over with a standard one out of a friends Silvia (that had a rb20 installed) The silvia rb20 is standard with a smaller zorst, and standard turbo. Will there be problems running the skyline with a standard ecu (considering it has a few mods)? Also will there be problems running the silvia with a remapped ecu (considering there are no mods)? It will probably only be one day but still wanted to be safe

I think he's talking about the GTS holden thingo? There was some 6 litre with a turbo or two pulling around about 600rwkw at about 4ish yesterday Anyways show was crap!!! not 1 r32 gtr, no gtr 34's , plenty of 33's and only 3 32's. THere was a few older cars that were fair decent, and they had that quad rotor twin turbo bmw, but nothing amazing, and not enough cars! Plenty of hot chicks though. Hottest was on the Polizia ferrari for sure. Not many small venders either, was more last year

wait waa?? do u have to pay an anual fee to have custom number plates in vic?? (i read a few pages back that someone said $400 a year..wtf?!?!) I just nabbed LIN3UP off the RTA site other day (some PRICK stole L1NEUP which is what i wanted.. i think it was a mate.. carnttttt)

ahh ok thanks, was wondering about that

I have a question about that.. i have heard that the torque split between the front and back wheels changes as you put the car through it's different paces.. i have also heard they have a 60/40 torque split.. whats the go here?

yeh, that actually looks pretty good

Yeh, was kinda hoping for one that's been rebuilt, because i know alot of them have been thrashed and won't cop it through my ownership (damnit i remember last autosalon a guy was selling a freshly rebuilt one with n1 turboes, to standard spec though i believe with nice paint for 23k)

Ah ok i wasn't sure, (+ i thought a 400rwhp rb25/30 was a good combo for me coz of the streetability when compared to a 400rwhp rb25) coz i mean my old 32 used to fry the tyres in 1st and that had about 220rwhp lol. Guess all in all, 32 GTR is choice for me then

So 300-400rwhp will not be streetable on a 34?

true, i forgot about that thread, i'll have a look. I'm trying to factor in a engine transplant for the 34 into the equation and end up with a reasonable price and compare cost to the 32 as well, very difficult for me because i'm semi-retarded