GTAAAH

Yeh, EPA check for it and it's needed for RWC (the carbon canister) so it's worth keeping. Fuel filter isn't a standard clear one (well standard on older cars) it's like a little silver tin canister, and it's bolted to the inner guard. If your not sure which it is, follow the hoses coming from it (2) one should go into the firewall and head backwards to ur tank and the other connects to your intake manifold

Eh 50rwkw out of a dyno tune? or did u have a new turbo/exhaust or something put on?

Why are you calling him a term paper

Yeh, it does, wasn't sure about different slippage amounts in different gears, cheers!

I remember there was a guy a while ago who got 200rwkw through a standard set-up (although it was debated quite alot) but yeh, this would be quite possible

Ah, ok i just wasn't sure if it could still be slipping while in gear (i.e. whilst in second gear, cruising). It fries the tyres coming onto boost in 1st too so i wasn't sure whether the clutch would/could be a problem in 1st. Guess it's time to look for a groupbuy on an exidy single plate or something.. MODS: Can this get moved to the clutch/drivetrain/gearbox area, as i have a clutch related question and it will save me having to write up a new topic

"Penalties From 1 July 2007 the penalty for driving a high powered vehicle will be three demerit points and a maximum fine of approximately $1100. These penalties will apply to both the current power to weight restrictions and the new high powered vehicles restrictions." Thats sooooooo gay, means i cant drive my valiant anymore (5.2 litre, 220hp, 1350 kilos = ) without risk of losing my other 3 points and my licence.. They used to give a warning, i wonder if they still will

Hey, im trying to figure out what (if anything) is wrong with my old r32 Compared to the corolla i'm driving at the moment it's quick, but compared to almost everything else it's slow. It's a R32 GTS-T with a hi flow cat, 3" exhaust with split dump, walbro fuel pump, R34 turbo, the ecu has been remapped, and it's running 14 psi. it got 163rwkw on a cold night (before split dump and cat) (133rwkw before 34 turbo and remap) As an example, an s13 with a totally stock rb20, the only mod being a cat back, absolutely slaughters the r32 (i know it's about 100 kilo's lighter) Anything with the letters SS (anything at all, including VN SS's) leaves it for dead, vl turboes laugh at it and swifts, gti's protons and tx3's give it a good run for it's money (which is about 5k more than most of the afore mentioned), all on the drag strip of course. What i'm trying to figure out is whether this is because of A) a bad tune, B) a dead engine C) a dead clutch I have had someone say before that the tune was a bit weird, so it is possibly this.. The tune was done before a split dump and a hi flow cat was put on, does anyone think the tune could be slowing it down this much? Dead engine i'm too scared to check as it's not my car anymore and if it's down on compression i will feel guilty and probably buy him a new one. The clutch is going i know for a fact, and it IS the standard one. Slam shifts can result in free revving (as in 7k rpm in 3rd while only going about 70kph) but will this seriously hamper performance in gear? For example if 2nd gear is slowly selected then the boot is put on, the clutch will be properly engaged correct?, or is there a chance that it could still be slipping and that be where im losing power? I've actually posted this before ages ago when i was the owner, ended up deciding it was just the car, but now i am interested too hear any suggestions (after getting in that little s13 and feeling how much faster it is). thx

yeh, if they are getting old they can leak and hamper performance.. but bigger bov = more air expelled = even less air after changes. i forgot the other option, block the standard one off (coke can ftw) and go for the flutters. Helped mine out quite a bit, boost came in alot quicker after gear changes.. If you don't like pidgeon's i'd avoid it though i guess.. i like the sound

The stock plumbback will do fine for what you want out of the engine (assuming 12 psi on a standard turbo) With an aftermarket bov, if anything, your looking at more lag after gear swaps, and once the bonnet is popped it will probably be pretty obvious

Thanks, i had a go at this last night... It was absuuuurdely tight, and i had a big assed spanner and was levering myself using my arms and legs off the chassis railto no avail. No idea how i'm going to get this undone lol, but for now it should be ok

Is it up one of the sides (<) or is it on the underside? Also what type of bolt is it? Allen key, 1/2" square bolt indented, outdented, or? Cheers

email sent RE: pics

Damn this is pretty much exactly what i want, at a good price.. Can't believe no ones bought it yet.. Can get a return flight to sydney for $150 so thats not too bad, what part of sydney do you live in? Also can you send me some more pics (i'm trying to decide whether i like the colour) to [email protected] Cheers

Erm, to save a new topic being made.. Where is the gearbox oil level check in a R32 gts-t manual? I have looked everywhere and although i can find the drain on the bottom and some other stuff, i can't find the check/refill hole for gearbox oil. Is it just a 1/2 inch square bolt like the drain one? Where is it hiding? Driving me nuts!

Well thats an average price from australian air express who don't offer cod (we move alot of wheels around and they charge us about $30 for every 10 kilo'ish box).. I guess AAE is more corporate and would probably have better rates. Also guessing cod will cost extra so my quote is probably a bit off

www.auspost.com.au do cod, and are one of the biggest postage companies, but your probably looking at around $90-120 for postage and delivery, maybe more

I've ran two reds before.. One was in a work ute in a confusing part of kew and the other on plenty road (new set of lights had opened up, but the side roads weren't open) Both freaked me out a bit afterwards.. It's not that difficult to do, but i guess theres a difference between running a red accidentally and running an almost yellow but just red..

Took it to some VicDrift mechanic dude and he had a look at the $22 boost controller and said it is shot.. The one from autobarn is just retarded.. The + is - and the - is + so on minimum setting it's actually max... i.e. 22 psi. whereas on max it runs only about 7 psi.. anyone else who gets this piece of ass cotroller be careful

haha yeh i checked that when i noticed it wasn't working, it goes valve at top (adjustable one) then spring then ball bearing.. mine rattles around when its cranked out which i''ve never noticed b4 tho

Yeh, thats how i had it wired. I remember when i first bought it 14 psi was wound full out then half a crank in.. now i can crank it all the way in and it still runs 5 psi so i was assuming its screwed

OK put the old one back on (plumbed as previously and as on previous page) it's shot, no matter how far in or out i crank it it always reads .5 bar boost.. this is not cool.. going to take it to some one tomorrow..

I plumbed the new controller straight in today and it still won't work.. had inlet as intercooler pipe and outlet to wastegate (should that be other way round?) gona try the $22 one again

5k will see you something 70's, resprayed in decent condition or with a larger motor already isntalled, a TA22 celica or an escort would be my choices.. or go the 13b into a rx3/2 or even an old 323

3 days is about average on normal mail, express 1-2 from qld, i'd start worrying if it's not there by tuesday week (can't expect much movement over easter).. I'd give them a call and get a tracking number, should be able to see exactly where it is if they sent it via aae, auspost, DHL, toll priority and a few others.. i'd be hoping they didn't just throw some stamps on it and send it your way=.=