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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    Then how did they tune it? Sounds awfully like a rev limit being hit. Take it back to the tuner and ask him to fix.
  2. blind_elk
    ??????? There are 2 sensors - 1 for the ECU (2-pin connector), one for the gauge (single-pin connector).
  3. blind_elk
    There are different sizes in different parts of the bell housing. Measure the thickness of the bell housing at each bolt hole, then add about 15mm - that should give you the length required. From memory, I think the larger bolts are 12x1.25 (maybe 1.5). The smaller will probably be 8x1 .
  4. blind_elk
    I thought standard tyres were 55 profile. As a "rule of thumb" (a very rough guide), you should be running a 35 profile on 18" rims (10 units profile per inch change in wheel diameter). But, as Taleb said, you then need to start checking more definitively as to the exact tyre size that gives the right rolling diameter. But I would start in the 35 profile sizes.
  5. blind_elk
    Have you checked the programmable rev limiter in the Haltech?
  6. blind_elk
    The cold start valve is the little torpedo-shaped unit directly under the throttle body (in the "U-turn" of the manifold). When cold, the "gate" is open, you should be able to see through it. It closes the gate by applying 12V to a bi-metal strip. The ECU temp sensor usually causes problems because, when it poops itself, it tells the ECU that the engine is still cold, and you run extremely rich.
  7. blind_elk
    Could be oil vapour getting blown from the rocker covers into the intake air stream. A catch can (actually oil-air separator) will solve that problem.
  8. blind_elk
    Well, the genuine ones from Nissan are over $700! (last time I asked) Try the wreckers for a 280ZX pump, or similar. Or maybe Bursons for a VL Turbo pump.
  9. blind_elk
    First, adjust the shoes in the "drum" of the rear disk hat.
  10. blind_elk
    There are too many threads regarding the effect of the alignment of the sensor under the steering wheel affecting the operation of HICAS.
  11. blind_elk
    HICAS - did you remove the steering wheel when you replaced the cluster? ATTESSA - fluid in the reservoir (in the boot)?
  12. blind_elk
    How is it "too big"?
  13. blind_elk
    I have a set of never-used ACL forged pistons, +040, with rings. PM if interested.
  14. blind_elk
    Do you have "freeplay" in the adjustment rod? (You should)
  15. blind_elk
    From memory, there are 14 pieces of hose in the cooling system. You will probably have to remove the inlet plenum, so I would suggest doing the welsh plugs as well.
  16. blind_elk
    In a related Herald Sun report: God knows, they need some :laughing-smiley-014: But really, dangerous driving and hooning aren't necessarily the same. Some idiot driving without any realisation of what is happening around him can be just as dangerous as the aforementioned 17 yo idiot
  17. blind_elk
    http://www.theage.com.au/news/national/tee...5602521044.html Unfortunately, banning for life won't necessarily stop idiots like this one from getting behind the wheel.
  18. blind_elk
    Fluid reservoir, behind the boot liner panel to the right of the RH taillamp assembly.
  19. blind_elk
    What exactly is happening? ABS is to prevent lockup. It bleeds pressure from the caliper until the wheel starts rotating (as detected through a rotating sensor), then re-applies pressure. So, if you are really nailing the brakes, you should get a vibration back through the pedal as the ABS applies / releases / applies / releases brake pressure. It could be that your ABS is now working as it should.
  20. blind_elk
    It would be cheaper to change your driving style. How many wheels are spinning? If it's only 1, then I suggest your diff is already unlocked, and you actually want to lock it.
  21. blind_elk
    Starting with your final question first, it's the reason for using axle stands - so that you can crawl around under the car without the risk of it dropping on you. At the front, I usually fit the stands under the LCA pivot point. At the rear, somewhere under the swing arm.
  22. blind_elk
    It won't have anything to do with the O2 sensor - the ECU doesn't need it to start (only on cruise). Exactly how did you connect the meter? You only need to measure V between pin 2 and earth, and the reading should oscillate between 0 - 1V, with engine at operating temp and constant throttle.
  23. blind_elk
    Sorry, didn't realise you had so much experience in these matters.Yes, I can be a pedantic old bastard sometimes. It's just that there are quite a few younger members who don't always understand the technicalities. And the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
  24. blind_elk
    Wheel bearings? Slop in the steering rack? Steering rack bushes? Castor rod bushes?
  25. blind_elk
    At least you won't get caught speeding with your speedo. It might be age - the return spring on the needle might be getting a bit old and 'limp'. If you are careful, you can adjust the needle to read correctly (you need to open up the whole unit to get at the needle). 205/55x16 - it should be on the sticker on the driver's side door jamb.
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