blind_elk

The regulator is built into the alternator. If it's suddenly dropping and rising, then I'd suggest the regulator is on its way out.Get a sparkie to check out the alternator.

The brown one is AAC. I think the purple is an "idle up" for when A/C is switched on.

That's as good a method as I've found. It's pretty typical of the Skyline - "want to do something, step 1 disassemble car!"

It's an RB20DET. What car it's fitted to is irrelevant. If the test was done properly, then those figures are not good figures. Next step is a leakdown test to determine where the loss of compression is occurring (valves / rings / something else).

My experience is that it's not worth it. Leave the factory fan there.

1. You should be able to judge possible interference of valves with pistons by putting a flat ruler across the face of the head with the valve fully open. 2. I'm pretty sure ALL L-series run the same tappets - .012 ex, .010 in, hot (.010 ex, .008 in, cold) 3. NFI

Putting it in gear will actually prevent the rear wheels and tailshaft turning. Use the handbrake to stop the tailshaft turning while undoing the flange bolts.

I have a set that have been reset lower (not cut). I figure $100 for the set of 4 (plus postage if necessary)

There's your problem. I think 33s should only run a 35 profile in a 255 width. The Z tyre is too tall for the 33's wheel well. Try some 245/35x18s, see how they fit.

But what about the increased sidewall flex, caused by the taller sidewall? You can easily fit a 235 tyre on a 7.5 rim. There is more than adequate grip in that width for most purposes.

All that remains now is to have the car corner-weighted.

The hose needs to be oil-resistant, because the oil vapour might condense on the inside of the hose. Pirtek, Enzed will have proper hose, and it's not really that expensive (in the overall scheme of things).

deadly had 245/40, supadan has 235/40. It seems to be enough to make no difference to ATTESSA. Still, you can save a lot of grief by fitting the same size tyres on the same size rims on all 4 corners.

The diameters are obviously the same. The offset is probably not so important (at least in a straight line). The tyre fitter should be able to measure the widths (although that info is usually cast on the inside of the rim). I'm only guessing here, but if you are already running different width tyres front and rear, then it is likely the rims are different widths front and rear. The rims really need to be the same all round, otherwise you can spend hours working out what combination of tyres (makes / models / sizes) will give the desired equal rolling diameters. This is what happens when you go for "the look" without regard to the technology underlying the performance.

Are the rims all the same size (diameter / width / offset)?

The cable only OPENs the bonnet - has nothing to do with keeping it closed.

It's definitely the tyres sidewall = 98mm sidewall = 92.75mmSo, rear tyre has a smaller rolling diameter. This means that the rears turn faster than the fronts. ATTESSA sees this as "wheel spin", and sends some drive to the fronts.

I've got some money on the AAC valve, or the Cold Start Air Valve (underside of the inlet manifold). But if you've replaced the whole engine, then those would have been replaced.

The handbrake is adjusted initially by adjusting the shoes in the hat of the rear disc. There is a hole in the hat. At about the "7 o'clock" position (I think) you will be able to see a ratchet wheel inside the hat. Turning this wheel adjusts the clearance of the shoe to the "drum" inside the disc hat.

Too right! I have lost count of how many times this point has been made - AWD NISSANS MUST HAVE THE SAME ROLLING DIAMETER ON ALL 4 CORNERS.

Frankly, I don't see why it should be subsidised by anyone. These "hoons", in general, spend squillions on their cars, yet they are too cheap to spend $100 or so to take their high speed desires to a race track or drag strip.

What size tyres and rims are you running?

I had the same drama when I fitted a Wolf to my GTS4. The (factory) ECU passes a throttle signal through to the ATTESSA computer. Advanced Engine Management (makers of Wolf) have a "black box" solution. Maybe Autronic has something similar.

The TPS is a 2-part component - a throttle position SWITCH and a throttle position SENSOR. The SWITCH part of the TPS needs 0 ohms across pins 1 & 2 (or 2 & 3) at throttle closed to tell the ECU that the throttle is closed. Does the engine tend to hold revs on (up) gear changes? If it does, the the TPS(witch) is likely out of adjustment; the ECU should shut down the injectors when the throttle snaps shut during gear changes.

You assemble to spring/shock out of the car. Then the whole assembly slots in. You will still need a spring compressor to do the job. They aren't all that expensive.