blind_elk

It's only air. Just because it's coming into the cylinder via the injector rather than the throttle body, it's still just air. Just start the engine normally (it might take a bit longer than usual while the system builds full fuel pressure).

Try stuffing some steel wool in the can. It will act as a "seed" for the oil vapour to condense around. After all, the purpose of the can is to remove oil vapour from the air.

Is the can sealed, or does it vent to atmosphere? If it is sealed (which it should be, so it is an oil / air separator), I suggest you plumb it as: Rocker vents -> catch can 'in', then catch can 'out' -> turbo intake

VB- - I said pedal box, not gear box. A broken clutch plate won't cause the pedal to sit permanently on the floor. white32, have a look under the dash at the clutch pedal mounting area - you should be able to see if the box (framework) is broken.

What do you mean by "they crap themselves"? You would need to be very unfortunate to keep replacing a crap fan with an equally crap fan. What makes you say all your fans had crapped themselves?

Broken pedal box.

I have money on the thermostat. In my old Z, I had a situation where the temp was fine up to 100kph. As soon as I got onto a 110 kph stretch, the temp started rising. The thermostat wasn't opening fully to allow proper coolant circulation.

What if you lower the window, then "attack" the lock mechanism thru the gap? You may be able to trigger the "unlock" lever to open the door.

It's got a bloody great wing to counterweight the torsion spring. Remove the wing, and it will almost launch itself onto the bonnet.

All I can say is - if you can hear knock, then it's too late. If a human ear picks it up better than an electronic ear, why on earth do manufacturers bother fitting knock sensors?

Says it all I'm with Dave on this one.

How'd you do that?

If you are in Melbourne, I have a not-quite-matched pair of Stratos seats. They are a left and right pair, just very slightly different head-restraints. I'll take $350 for the pair.

Have you had the injectors cleaned recently?

Have you adjusted the TPS correctly. If it is "off", it won't send a "throttle closed" signal to the ECU, and the engine will idle fast. Have you adjusted the AAC correctly? Have you had the injectors cleaned? Don't understand about the diagnostics test. Nissan are the ones who will have the diagnostics tool - you don't need one. I might be able to recommend someone, but they might not be in the same area as you.

Try this test (handbrake ON, plenty of space in front of the car): Stop engine Select 1st gear Clutch in Start engine What happens?

It will ground direct to the chassis. If the lights still work even with the switches disconnected, then there is a wire somewhere else (probably near the interior light) that is grounding the circuit.

It won't cause the battery to discharge, it will prevent the battery being proper re-charged.

Just remembered- sometimes there are 2 keys, 1 works IGN and boot, the other only works IGN. You leave the second key with the car when you leave it somewhere (mechanic, etc), and, with the valet lock, no-one can steal stuff from the boot.

One of the things I mentioned in your other thread is that there is a matching half-moon key, for the CAS, on the end of the exhaust cam. Is that still there? If you line up the markings on the crank gear and the markings on the cam wheels with their corresponding reference marks, the crank pulley has to line up correctly. You may have the wrong pulley, or the woodruff keys that force the pulley to align correctly, are MIA. It should only take 2 revolutions of the crank before all the marks (on the crank and on the cam wheels) are aligned with their reference marks.

While the switch is out, press the button - does the interior light go out? Use a multimeter to test power to the switch and earth from the switch. Test for continuity thru the switch, open and closed.

Have you tried turning the key to the RIGHT?

That sounds like a bad earth off the chassis to the -ve terminal. Find where the -ve cable is bolted to the body, and clean up the connection.

Check out a set of longer rods (only a couple of mm longer), then machine the tops off the pistons.

Do you know the 25 head is definitely different to the 20 head? Just that my old 20 head was "woofed" - only 30 thou, but no-one would touch it. So you're welcome to that one if you want it.