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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    What grade oil are you running in the dampers? If you run a lighter oil, then the needles will rise further, allowing more fuel to be delivered for a given air flow.
  2. blind_elk
    Isn't a PFC programmable? In that case, you tell the PFC 15BTDC at idle, then adjust the timing offset in the PFC until the timing light says 15 BTDC.
  3. blind_elk
    I don't know about that. I'm running a RB25DET in a 32 GTS4, through the original gearbox, and the 'box is holding up fine.
  4. blind_elk
    I already had a brace before I did my conversion. It's not a problem - still fits.
  5. blind_elk
    OK, so I set up:+12V -- relay pin 85 -- relay coil -- relay pin 86 -- wire 46 -- A/C button (-- earth) A/C wire 9 -- relay pin 30 -- relay switch -- relay pin 87 -- earth Yes? (because I'm running a wired-in Wolf 3D that knows nothing about A/c)
  6. blind_elk
    The wires will be at the ECU plug. There will be a pinout and plug diagram somewhere around here.
  7. blind_elk
    I did the double in my 32 GTS4 (RB20DET). It had 145 rwkw and 115 awkw. Using that as a comparison, I'm guessing that a 230 awkw GT-R would have something approaching 300 rwkw.
  8. blind_elk
    Another point - did you actually drain the old fluid completely out of the system. If not, then you still have crap fluid present. Jack both ends of the car, and just open the bleed nipples. When the master reservoir is empty, fill with your new (Dot 5) fluid. When it appears at the bleed nipples, shut them off. Then bleed as per normal bleed procedure.
  9. blind_elk
    Thanks BH. So how should I make it work? I'm envisioning that I get the old pin46 wire to switch a relay which in turn allows the old pin9 to connect to earth. Sound good?
  10. blind_elk
    I thought CAMS had done away with that requirement, as long as the car is registered, and the catch is an unmodified OEM catch.But bonnet pins certainly meet the requirement otherwise. But just be careful the police don't "canary" you for the pins protruding above the bonnet line.
  11. blind_elk
    The ECU is involved in the A/C operation. I don't recall off-hand which 2 wires are involved, and I still don't know how they affect the A/C and make it work (I think they control the compressor). I still have to work it out on my own system.
  12. blind_elk
    What's the temperature rating of the pads? At $80 a set, I doubt they are "high performance". Get some Ferodo 2500s, or Bendix Ultimates (or whatever replaced Ultimates). And use a Dot5 fluid. Then get braided brake lines.
  13. blind_elk
    For the high idle, check the TPS that it is setting the switch part to tell the ECU that the throttle is closed.
  14. blind_elk
    Maybe the wear marker, on the pad.
  15. blind_elk
    The only time I ever had a problem of overheating is when I fitted a thermo. It seemed impossible to get air to go through the radiator to actually cool the radiator. I've run the standard radiator and fan on 40 deg day with A/C flat chat, and engine temp never moved.
  16. blind_elk
    What is the battery voltage while you are trying to crank the engine? Have you tried boosting the battery with a jump-start? What happens if you remove all the spark plugs and crank?
  17. blind_elk
    Which chassis / body is the rolling shell (sedan / hatch)?
  18. blind_elk
    It does necessarily have to be accurate (yes, that would be nice, though). As long as you use the same gauge, then everything will be relative. Dick Smith used to have a digital gauge. And not overly expensive. Maybe check them out.
  19. blind_elk
    The SR20 dump attaches to the exhaust housing at a different angle to a RB20 (about 90 deg, from memory). So, unless you want the dump coming out the LH guard, get a proper RB20 dump.
  20. blind_elk

    Skydiving

    blind_elk replied to allblitz's topic in Victoria

    Anyone who jumps out of a perfectly good airplane, with only a giant handkerchief to prevent them hitting the ground too hard, has got to have rocks in their head.
  21. blind_elk
    Unless it's for a race car, you really don't want any more than 2 deg neg.
  22. blind_elk
    The advantage of using the plug in #3 is that you may be able to observe any damage to the electrodes, such as might be caused by a chunk of piston playing pin-ball inside the cylinder and combustion chamber (been there, done that!)
  23. blind_elk
    If you want AWD, go and buy the car that comes with it. Installing AWD into a car that is RWD is more than just fitting an engine and AWD gearbox.
  24. blind_elk
    What happens when you go another revolution? It should be out further. What is the ratio of "teeth on belt : teeth on cam wheel"? Unless that is a whole number, you will always observe the apparent problem. The important ratio is "teeth on cam wheel : teeth on crank wheel" (which should be 2:1). And the tensioner will not affect any of this.
  25. blind_elk
    The markings on the belt are irrelevant. What is important is the markings on the crank pulley and the cam pullies.
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