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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    It has more than likely popped an intercooler hose connection.
  2. blind_elk
    What ^^^ said.
  3. blind_elk
    It is never "for no reason". Sounds like the fuel pump might be on its last legs - do you have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up?
  4. blind_elk
    Yes, WHEN it is surging might help diagnose WHY it is surging.
  5. blind_elk
    So it's running a standard ECU? Surely the "well known tuner" must have some idea!
  6. blind_elk
    I've still got money on water vapour from the combustion process.
  7. blind_elk
    If the pedal now sits a lot lower to the floor, then it's likely the pedal box has popped its seams. Stick your head under the dash and have a look.
  8. blind_elk
    The "pump priming" could also be the HICAS setting itself up.
  9. blind_elk
    Well, where are you located? I'd like to be able to see them first.
  10. blind_elk
    The rear halfshafts have CV joints rather than universal joints. Been that way since 280ZX, I believe.
  11. blind_elk
    The ignitor modules are becoming notorious for failing with age and heat. When the engine stops, try chilling the ignitor somehow, see if the engine will re-start (maybe even try with bonnet up).
  12. blind_elk
    I only need the head itself. If it has valves and lifters is OK (I'm stripping the valves and lifters out of my "dead" one anyway). And I have rocker covers.How "decked" is the decked head? And where are you located?
  13. blind_elk
    Shock absorbers DO NOT control ride height. Only the spring controls how high the car sits - the spring is supporting the weight of the car. The shock absorber controls the motion of the spring thru bump and rebound. Try swapping the springs to the other side (ie, L>R, R>L)
  14. blind_elk
    Basically you want a API SL or SM grade oil, 5W-40 viscosity. The latest Mobil1 synthetic is supposed to be pretty good (I've yet to try the 5W-50 myself). And I've been recommend the Castrol Edge 5W-40 (or 60). Any of the "name" brands should suffice.
  15. blind_elk
    What does work? Headlights? Instrument lights? Indicators? Instrument warning lamps? Radio? Have you checked all the fuses? Have you checked the fusible links on the +ve battery terminal?
  16. blind_elk
    There has to be a cable on the -ve battery post. Otherwise the circuit isn't complete.
  17. blind_elk
    What about the fusible links that hang directly off the +ve terminal - I believe they supply power to the rest of the car.
  18. blind_elk
    As per topic. I need a straight cylinder head to suit a RB20DET (silvertop). Prefer pickup Melbourne. TIA
  19. blind_elk
    Stick of dynamite would probably give a nice exploded view
  20. blind_elk
    Have you accidentally hit the switch for the foglamps? It's a push button, right next to the switch for the headlamps. Your tail lights should be on as well. (I'm figuring you don't have foglamps, but there is still a switch there, for when you do)
  21. blind_elk
    No way known is that -5 deg camber. (It looks nothing like a V8 supertaxi, which run -6)
  22. blind_elk
    The remote release has a "valet" lock, which means that only the key will open it. You had better hope that whoever sold you the car has the right key for the boot.
  23. blind_elk
    http://www.gates.com/common/downloads/file...echTipsForm.pdf Probably worth getting the R9.
  24. blind_elk
    There are FOUR corners on the car. And each has a lamp.Which lamp?
  25. blind_elk
    Basically. EFI hose is EFI hose. Shouldn't matter what SAE rating it is manufactured to. And who's to say what the difference in SAE standards is anyway (might be simply a different plasticiser used in the rubber).
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