blind_elk

Gearbox out. Either "Return to Supplier", or just disassemble and fix. It's probably popped the selector fork out of the selector rod.

The shaft of the CAS has to be in the correct orientation to mate with the half-moon key on the end of the exhaust cam. I have run a RB25DET CAS in a RB20DET without any problems. That test should confirm the CAS working correctly.

Wheel alignment should have been done by setting the steering wheel "straight ahead", then aligning wheels. With the steering wheel off-centre, you risk upsetting HICAS, which will think you are in a constant turn. Take it back and get it adjusted properly.

Pretty sure the boot light doesn't affect the door-open warning. Have you actually removed the door switches and confirmed they are working correctly?

Almost 100% that is a REDTOP head. They used butterflies to create variable length inlet runners. Problem was the butterflies often jammed, causing crap performance.

Have a set of brand new, never used RB25DET ACL forged pistons and rings, +.040 A$1000, delivered. PM if interested.

The rolling diameter comes is a function of the tyre's width and profile. The same profile at different widths gives different rolling diameters.It can be done; it's a matter of finding the right width / profile combination for both front and rear to achieve a matched rolling diameter. Much simpler process if all four rims are the same.

Jono, are you Irish? 3 posts the same - to be sure, to be sure, to be sure. If you run the same size tyres (say 245/35*19) on narrow front and wide rear rims, the rears will have a smaller rolling diameter than the fronts. This is because the sidewalls on the rears are at a different angle to the vertical compared to the sidewalls on the front. This triangulation pulls the tread of the tyre on the wider rim inwards into a smaller rolling diameter configuration. This creates a situation where ATTESSA thinks the rears are wheel-spinning, and so it applies drive to the fronts to "catch up". If you use different widths front and rear, you risk creating differentials in rolling diameters due to the width and profile combo not quite coming up with the same rolling diameter. I can't see that it's worth a set of clutch packs to not just fit the same size all-round. And it makes it so much easier to even out wear by swapping front - rear as well.

Theory seems sound. Only solution would be to go right through all the fuel maps and take a bit of fuel out.

First of all, the phrase is "held back" (not "help back"). The dyno is the only common element to the (bad) behaviour. Then it has to be the dyno.

It's a Nissan. How about a Nissan dealer! Are you sure the seal is sitting back in its location correctly?

This is THE WORST treatment for a modern engine. Excess fuel thins the oil, washes oil from the cylinder walls. The spark plugs run cold and carbon up.Just fire it up and get moving ... GENTLY (under 3k), until the engine shows a reasonable temp on the gauge.

How much oil do you have? How old is it?

Frankly, I can't see anything useful from the photos. But I still have my money on a hose. If the engine came straight from Japan, then it's more than likely the hoses have rotted from the inside, due to a lack of inhibitor (not a favoured additive by the Japanese motorist). You need to get the system under presure so it leaks. Either have the engine running, or get it to a mechanic or radiator place and have the cooling system pressure tested. Welsh plug map won't be much use, because you need to remove manifolds to fix anyway. And you are better off replacing them all at the same time.

If there was any interference, I doubt the head would have gone back on. So you shouldn't have bent valves at that point. So, it will be possible to align the bottom and top ends. You can V E E R R R Y S L O W L Y turn the crank. If you strike ANY resistance, STOP. Check which pistons are near TDC (a long screwdriver through the spark plug hole works well), and check which valves are fully open. Then jiggle the cams so that the valves are no longer fully open on the pistons at TDC. Again, ANY resistance, STOP; work out where the interference is happening. Failing that, you are probably going to have to pull the head, and do it again ... properly (hint - RTFM).

There's a slide lock on the locking mechanism in the boot that prevents the remote unlocker working.

I think it is quite normal that the idle will vary slightly. It's not really noticeable when watching the tacho, but when you see numbers changing, then it becomes obvious. The fact that it is worse when the lights are on - which means the engine is under more load trying to drive the alternator - suggests a possible problem with an aging battery.

EGG-ZACKLY!!!!!!!!!! Nevar has, nevar will.

The ballast resistor is a requirement of the coil, not the distributor. Basically, the coil gets a full charge of 12V at startup, but then the electrics switch over to the ballast resistor to deliver less (8?) volts to the coil while running.

Then it's NOT AN O2 SENSOR PROBLEM!Any monitor will only alternate rich - lean - rich under static throttle conditions, ie cruise. It will simply go RICH under load / accelleration, and ultra lean under off-throttle.

Not at all. Just living up to my nic.<-----

You probably have a live feed for the head unit illumination floating around in the space. It's zapped itself to earth and frazzled the fuse.

Sorry, misunderstood what you were saying. I thought you had replaced one of the factory senders. But it seems you've stuck some sort of adapter into the top radiator hose (by cutting the hose in two?).

Front or rear? Have you tried Whiteline? Or ... here's a thought ... a Nissan dealer.

Duh, it's a bandage for your muffler. It's resin-impregnated cloth that you wrap around the exhaust pipe or muffler to seal up an area where a hole has rusted into the exhaust.