blind_elk

Yes, they are the same (37:9, which is actually 4.1111111111...:1)

"budget bitsa" is an oxymoron. Trying to mix'n'match parts is just asking for trouble. Why would it be cheaper - you would have to get a RB25DE, and a (whole) RB20 to get the crank. A RB25DET isn't really all that expensive. A bit of history. In the good old days - before supertaxis - the Nissan race GT-Rs ran 9:1 c/r and 1.8 bar boost, and were a very tractable race car. The Ford Sierras ran only 6:1 and 3 bar boost. They were an absolute pig of a car to drive - gutless off-boost and uncontrollable on-boost. So, low c/r is not the be-all-and-end-all of safe turbo driving.

To confuse matters more, you may not be missing anything. The connector might be for something in another model (different models using same loom section).

If you had searched, you would have discovered that the sender units are a bit suspect. If you are concerned about a total loss of oil pressure, there is also a "oh sh!t" warning light when you actually have no pressure.

The injectors should have permanent power when IGN = ON. The ECU switches to earth to open the injector. Pull the CAS, turn IGN -> ON, slowly rotate CAS shaft and listen for injector and coil activity. Check that you haven't bent the pins inside the connector plugs when you connected everything up.

Might I suggest that you aren't going to get a pink slip anywhere as long as the car is too low.

Doesn't make sense. GT-R LSD is mechanical, not electrical, AFAIK. I think you are having a problem with voltage to the HICAS motor.

I would suggest that the LT12 isn't configured correctly to run a RB engine in sequential spark/injection mode. Get it to the tuner to have it set up correctly. BTW -spark plugs themselves have no effect on spark delivery or timing.

How many fn times does it have to be said - THE O2 SENSOR HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH STARTING OR BOOST PERFORMANCE! While the ignitors are known to be suspect with age and heat, ordinarily they will play up under all running conditions. And if a coil is going to misbehave, it will do it all the time, not just starting. Does sound like dirty injectors not delivering enough fuel at hot start.

Have you actually checked and set the correct timing? Have you checked the cold start air valve?

No such animal as a tiptronic GT-R (except the R35), nor should there be - sports cars shouldn't have auto transmissions!

They flash fast on the same side as the blown globe. It could also be that the incorrect wattage globe has been used. Or LEDs being used. Do they flash fast on "hazzard"?

Fronts would be more important - otherwise the car won't turn corners! if your current tyres are r/w, you should still be able to use them on the track. Otherwise, just get "normal" road tyres. You (probably) aren't Craig Lowndes, so you shouldn't be going to the track for the first time to pretend you are. Use the day to get a good feel for the car, how it handles at really high speed. My 2c.

Manual or auto?

Remove the front pipe.

What's the actual problem? The first post was talking about OIL temps over 100, but all the replies are related to WATER temps. These are 2 totally different systems. Which one is the problem? A new radiator won't have any effect on water warmup times or "engine too cool" as long as the thermostat is working correctly.

Basically, the rules that apply to R33s will be applicable to R32s. IMO, "coilover" suspension, ie infinitely adjustable ride height, is unnecessary for the average road car. You have to corner weight the car for them to be really effective. And they are generally extremely stiff / firm. I have Bilsteins with Kings lowered springs on my 32 GTS4. The Bilsteins have several grooves to set ride height. They are more than adequate as an upgrade from OEM. Might I suggest you contact Quadrant Suspensions (www.quadrantsuspensions.com.au/ ) in Melbourne, or Whiteline (www.whiteline.com.au) in Sydney, about their setups. I think Quadrant recommend Eibach springs, Whiteline do Kings. Also, there was a group buy about 12 months ago for Bilstein / Kings packages - search through the for sales area, posted by "Sydneykid".

If you are running a heat range 9 plug, no wonder they foul. What actual plugs are you running? What gap? The injectors might be leaking - get them sonic cleaned. The coils could be failing and not firing the full spark. Borrow your mate's, if they seem to be working ok.

Cold Start Valve? It's the "torpedo" under the throttle body. Should be a clear path through it when cold, blanked off when warm.

Whenever I remove an engine, I separate it from the gearbox. The difficult part with the RB20 is getting the 2 top bolts holding the box to the block.

At a cruise (constant throttle) condition, the engine does not produce enough exhaust gas at a fast enough velocity to spin the turbine at a speed that can produce boost. This is what is termed "low load", ie minimal work being done by the engine. The engine is actually running under vacuum (just like a N/A engine). When you start to accelerate (increase the load on the engine), the volume and velocity of the exhaust gases increases, causing the turbine wheel to spin faster, thus producing boost. For example, if you are driving at constant throttle setting on a flat road, there is no boost. When you come to an "up" hill, the engine needs to do more work to maintain the road speed. The increase in the load on the engine causes the turbo to produce boost. Under constant throttle, boost is independent of revs. If you could "cruise" at 7000 rpm, you would still have no boost. Maybe you should go to a website such as howstuffworks (I think that's what it's called), and study how a turbocharger actually works - lot simpler than us being here writing a "War And Peace" article on how it all works.

You would find it's a common problem, if you did a search. Fix the switch. HICAS light is a separate, unrelated issue.

The "black thing" is the charcoal canister - designed to absorb petrol fumes. Part of the anti-pollution gear, so has to be there. And get a filter for the AFM - unless you are planning on an in-situ cylinder hone.

That's a slow leak. The handbrake light (low brake fluid warning) should have come on well before you ran out of fluid. Check the globe in the instrument panel (does it work when the handbrake is on?)

Also, it used to be that radial tyres got used to rotating primarily in one particular direction. If you then swap sides with them, so they rotate primarily in the opposite direction, the belts go all funny and you get symptoms of a bad alignment.