khunjeng

Man u need to get yourself some connections...I have marquee tickets for Oaks and Darby from some companies but not for the cup which sux...I will only go Oaks day cos I think Darby day is on this wekeend when we will be at autosalon...

welcome to MIVEC yo...I've had it for a few years in 6A12 engine....new rims man at least..and some neons

yeah all mine are kingchrome...same stuff...thats a good idea...might give it a go and see what happens...

ok went to take off the FPR...to my suprise one of the heads was stripped which was kinda annoying. THey have spring washes and hence they are hard to get off...whoever tried before obviously didn't ahve much luck.. I was going to get out the file and file down the sidess and get onto with some vice grips...but due to location its gonna take awhile. Any ideas? otherwise its file time tomorrow. I wasn't keen to drill it out but that might be the easiest, just worried about damage to the existing thread.

I was thinking about cutting the middle row off the stock s1 grille...and leave the S badge....might look good.. what you think? maybe need ot photoshop it.

do it Mav..lol then I can copy ur car mate...

I went to see GTR Geoff today and he took a look at it and went for a spin. He reckons it feels like its being restricted..i.e. maybe the emanage is f*king with it as suspected...we also though mayeb the fuel pump was doing dodgy things... I think the best bet is to advance my PFC install and go form there. I will talk to my guys tomorrow...really annoying. thanks for the help....

confirmed. Tests have shown Ryco to be crap under the generic brands...and coopers performed really good. The OEM Nissan seems to be good also and plenty of good reviews detailing low pressure drop and good filtering. Considering I got some for $9.50 each you can't go too wrong.

yeah I have and got the sample sent to me already. I used a company that Busky2k gave me...I will chnage the oil and take the sample and send it off..I'm excited Been busy changing ATF and GB and DIFF oils in other cars...omfg ATF changes suck arse.

get a Apexi RSM and then u will know.. but you can't adjust it I guess.

yeah it makes sense. The setup was tuned as is...for the past few months it was fine Cos I wanted to elimintae the bleed value I put it back to the stock solanoid. This did help, hit 0.5 pretty quick cos of the new turbo but as the REVs picked up it eventually cut...i.e. what u said above. I might put the bleed value back on and turn it down alot to make it drive normal and take it to Ash's and see what the deal is..

thanks Paul & Ash... I kept loking at stuff but didn't get anywhere and justed working on the FTO instead...which now has nice new ATF after spilling the shit everywhere.. BOV = stock...seemed to be working when I took it off but I don't have much to compare it to. I havn't got the cable etc...I left it at my tuners..cos I didn't get the software....basically cos I was upgrading to the PFC anyway. I'm pretty sure your right and hitting R&R...cos it feels ghey..dunno why it just hit it in the middle of driving though? But I did find it acting wierd earlier in the day when I cained it it went but not fast enough... if u send me ur details, I'II make the trip and see if u can suss it out...then u can check my new rims..hehe

hi guys... last night I was driving, gave it a bit, but not heaps and suddenly lost all boost and power. No noise.It seemed wierd, I had no flutter anymore...wans't sure what was going on, I assumed I blew a hose off the FMIC or the BOV. Anyway everything seemed fine. In the morning a did some close inspections, nothing seemed wrong..I pulled of some hoses and had a look and checked the BOV and bleed valve for the boost - looks good. Took it for a spin...drove ok until you hit like 0.3bar+ def. was spooling and I could here pressure being released..so I guessed the turbo is working - to some degree. Currently I have an emanage in the car as my PFC will be installed in 1 week. ITs been running fine. But I did an ECU reset, connected back up to the stock boost solanoid and took it for a spin...boosts up to 0.5bar ok..but whent he revs hit about 4k...just dies in the arse...felt like it was dumping lots of fuel...in fact watching the guage it seemed to move down a lot in the process..I didn't notice smoke..but i didn't really look either. I put my ear to the turbo and it doens't appear to be making any funny noises...you can hear it spinning at idle...and u can hear it spool under some load. My guess is the emanage is f*ked..or f*king with the ECU...it seems like its being retarded as under some load u can feel it isn't pulling like normal and is running at say 1/2 thottle.. I'm worried I screwed the turbo...but its a new steel/bb type...good for 700hp aparently and I had been running 1-1.2 bar for some time before this. ... Was thinking of taking off the cat to see if any bits are there but cbf right at the minute.. Any susgestions of any things I should check to rule out the turbo? I did a search on blown turbos and it didn't apear to fit any of the symtoms...seemed more like a hose it blown but I looked a few times and took most of them off for inspection. AFM is a few months odl also.

mate who cares what his salary is? 55k or similar is hardly impressive, but if u work for ford its not that bad cos form what I have seen, THEY pay shit. totally off topic? yeah cos this point is totally irrelevant.

its all a matter of perspective hence why we have choice. they do look good IMO...esp with a decent grille.

brand new and from the manual the compression on a RB25DET is 1.2 MPa or roughly 175psi. The variance limits between cyl is 0.1Mpa or ~14.5psi. The service limit is 0.9MPA or 130psi thats pretty much explains it all IMO.

I am making aorund 300rwkw now with stock internals. I'm no expert but I assume something is gonna give eventuallly. However I assume it mainaly about how you drive it. Mine wont see track time (I doubt) so IMO under normal driving conditions and the occasional drag with a SS commie it should be fine. Then again if it dies...I get a new engine so I see only positives advice form many members and people who have been running this kind of power for longer than me have advised if you take care of it your in with a good chance..

Cam gears all the way! was putting mine on when I do the timing belt soon...the rb25/6 cars I have seen on the dyno after instal with these have seen some good 20rwkw+ gains...after seeing that I thought its a must. as for the talking shit about stuff u dont understand...I have 2 meetings a day dediced to people like that

so if I'm reading correctly too much air ramed in is not doing you any good. I setup a box over the pod and AFM and took away the stock intake. I used a 3" pipe from the grill which comes in under the pod - using the stock IC hole..I havn't noticed any issues... I would assume this setup is basically the same as stock with more air and a more direct flow into the CAI area however the differnece is that its not in direct airflow at the bar...yet I would assume the 3" pipe would allow a lot of air to get in...maybe its enough of a baffle to avoid the issues being discovered. Its not totally sealed...it has gaps on the sides..I never worried as I assumed so much air was getting in there it would keep away the hot engine air...after all that was the aim of the box...I wont bother to seal it up perfectly then Myabe you don't need such a good flowing filter under such circumstances...as you have so much air its not really a flow issue. I have been using a UniFilter which has less flow than the pod mentioned but filters much better...just another thing to consider IMO...

I'm going to stick with the redline for sure...I havn't got a oil temp guage - i was going to install one but then didn't. Maybe its a must - I assume its hotter but then again I only take it to the max on the odd occassion and its driven on the street. btw Trex..finally got into the BITOG..saw a few of ur posts...just sussing out UOA now and will post some results using the 10W30 redline.

$5 on the pad being worn to the indicators.

its a rb25 worked to 300rwkw...I went the 10W40 redline as I thought it to be a good general thickness...yeah might gove the 30 a go... what weight and brand do u use??

yeah what they said...OEM mufflers are baffled to the shithouse to make them quite....

maybe he meant the difference between max and min was 20....which would make more sense. instead of debating just ask him for the results...and yes its if it is 20 you can easily tell with a quick drive...it will be farked. milage is bs...you can get clusters from Japan and ebay aus easily...cost me less than $100 for a 74,000km one And the service reocrds are a bit dodgy IMO also...doens't mean anything unless u can check it.

i feel a gb comming on...they look hot.