khunjeng

after I pulled off the stockies...you could depress the old ones with my hand...so damn soft...must ahve done like 200k. Its much firmer, not much movement so goes good around corners...like 10 times better...apart form that they are shocks. I look it to so tight bends...30kmph bends and cained it hard...felt awsome through the corner.. you can also lower the height without loosing track play which is also good if u feel like changing the hight one day...

ok...my old shockers were crap and I upgraded. I went for the beilstein sports shocks. No adjustment cos apartenly these have been setup good already and I found the dampening adjutable a bit of a wank in my other car. King springs to suit, Front : KDFL-101 - 175lb/" / 3.1kg/mm Back : KDRL-61SP - 185lb/" / 3.2kg/mm Bump stops, whiteline camber bushes etc Nice firm ride but to not rough I found. However the handling is now fantastic. Now I'm used to the car, I took it for a spin around some decent roads and the thing is awsome...its performs like a sports car now I was amazed. Its like night and day compared to you old stock shockers... So for anyone looking for new shockers and springs I would highly recomend these...

I was confused with pipe diameter and length which are all important factors. Just to confirm, high-revving horsepower can be had with headers utilizing larger diameter, shorter primary tubes. lol...i still want some.

yeah I did get it around the wrong way I think....shorter with larger diameter = top end power.

next weekend...fantastic

i have cool annodised blue valves...I like then cos they look cool with my rims...its seems if I did it these would be replaced..

hey mate details...who makes them and roughly how much. where are they located? the other one Snowman posted is pretty wicked though. Reading through the install manual it looks pretty easy. Hey Snowy...does the trasmitter sit around the existing tire valve..i.e. the valve stick through...I couldn't work that out. I saw they installed it from inside...not sure how its gonna look I wouldn't mind I pic. The dispay unit looks tops though. KJ

he said it wasn't a skyline... they will be replaced parts...if those cross-arms have been replaced its probbaly been in a medium to bad accident.. isnt the end of the world...just need it checked out by someone who can check the camber etc.

honed would be the go...i know it will flow better and I have looked at the results but I'm not sure what that will translate to in terms of real world driving... what about doing the inlet manifold at the same time... if anyone knows of a decent place in melbourne..I will get it done and test it out.

how much 4 ur one CNBLOW...not that I need it, but I like buying stuff. actually as Snowy said, I had the issue of driving on some low profiles and it was flat and I didn't know....wellldidn't know until I went around a corner and the tyre came off and I just missed an oncomming truck as I span out...not cool.

I reckon since I joined SAU I have heard more about Taco Bills than any other topic... oh apart from "use search, thread locked"

could have given you my old ones...were crap but working. I just threw them out.

its all theory mate. ..but I would assume the mods we are talking about are only minor and wouldn't have a massive impact in the presssure ratio and therefore not move the compressor efficency a huge amount...but I'm no expert.

The basic theory behind manifold and exhaust pipe length tuning is based on organ pipe theory. A tuned length exhaust is literally that - a length at which the pipe has a natural frequency of resonance which matches the resonance of the engine at a particular engine speed. Longer tube lengths pull the torque down to a lower R.P.M. range. Shorter tubes move the power band up into a higher R.P.M. range. The amount of straight in the collector extension can move the engines torque up or down in the R.P.M. range. Longer extension length will pull the torque down into the midrange. Really most people design the intake, cams and header to be optimal at a certain RPM range as the standing wave can only be created at a single RPM. Good for dyno shootouts...not street driving. IMO for street cars get a well constructed deisgn...not lips etc...nice joins at the collector and a design that suits your needs...i.e. low down torque and this will be fine. Persaonlly I have had only minor gains (2-3%) from header/extractors bolt ons.

wow I only just got mine...looks like I was just in time. When I got one my guys didn't say anything about it.

1001 threads on this....serach..

thats right. so the reason this helps ur turbo spool is because you just increased the pressure differnece between the inlet and outlet of the turbo...Heat/Pressure/Volume its all related. as for the blankets...yeah I rekcon you just need a shield for shield heat from ur bay...lol I think that was the topic of the post...

i bought one form japan not long ago. dunno what the deal is.

Its all about keeping the air in a high energy state to allow easier transfer of kinitec energy. I dont have a blanket...dont care...this is all just theory. Remembering that many people use these. it might be more bewteen runs..to keep the turbo hot rather than while driving.

thats awsome...looks like I need a rebuild

140rwkw is right for stock mate. superdragger hey? can't get them easily amymore I think...well not my version anyway haha.

i remember a convo about 3 just wasn't enough...

prey its written off hard...assuming its fully covered. bad luck..

lol if ur really wanting a ride in a line..I live in heathmont up the hill from u...I can drop you off in 5min - lol I must be getting old. But mines a R33...so if u want a r34 and some1 makes u can offer...feel free. burnouts are $10 extra....I will dose it for ya bro 4th is Monday yeah?

I looked for hours and couldn't find the info. Bascially I had to reasearch VSLDs and how they work and found out exactly what you said...then got confused again! haha thanks for that mate.