Devils_Advocate21

Bah was gunna give ya a bell jason, maccas? lol

Anyone else coming today?

i used meguires canuba wax till i ran out and trying mothers pure canuba, not bad but best if done by hand not rotary buff on the mothers stuff, the meguires either or, only use the better of the stuff you can buy out there

I dare say i should be there the car is washed/waxed unless something comes up

it would be quite normal, it may increase spool up times, but is better noticable with the rest of the exhaust complete, keep in mind as well a highflow filter being pod or panel replacement will also help if it hasnt been done yet, Also the boost mod, you may still be running off the standard boost solenoid, its hard to say maybe help us out list what else has been done to it Cheers A by just completing the last half of the exhaust wont actually increase the power that much

Excellent i may be there

Two choices between in the tomei/nismo fuel varients, one is 248lph the other is 276lph Is that good enough for 400 rwkws? only benefit is the fact is direct bolt in replacement no ffffing around to fit Cheers A

or how bout remove the fuse from the fuel pump start it up let it die, and den open fuel cap to relieve pressure, then remove the filter much easier but at the end of the day your still going to lose a little bit of fuel, its part of the job. cheers A

Meh who cares, if it happens it happens, modified vehicles esp exhaust keep it legal limit your alright, there will be no real defect then, keep you cat converter your alright, box your pod you'll be ok why wouldnt you box it anyway CAI is better by far anyway, easy enough to solid mount it as well, out of site out of mind I say, that hieght restriction been around for ever really, just keep it at legal limit, FFS if your really worried get a mod plate or eng cert on certain mods, and the easiest of them all is just dont be ffing stupid on the roads. Keep safe and you will be ok. All this worry about these laws i mean wtf, its not that hard to make certain things legal on your car is it? and still not hinder on performance. All i can say is that EVEN if you did riot what reason have you got to riot, its mainly dickheads in the past that have caused them to mainly come into place ie: (Street drags, racing and the like around the public eye) not on the area it should be at the track/strip. They'll just laugh at you if you riot just throw a little more fuel on the fire. The papers and news would love it. Worry when it does happen, at the moment its just talk. cheers A

all you need is torque wrench, radiator fluid, patience, several sockets, aircompressor, impact wrench, 1 uni joint for socket, 1slab of beer, maybe a jack depends if you have a front mount or not, and 1 day to spare, also doesnt hurt to have a few spare studs just in case

Cams are easy just DIY

i was going to say afm, how you explain it hits rich then mega rich, also means possible max out of AFM, that could be one down side as you should have a relative easy 300+rwkw combo there (boost dependant) more info? have you got a dyno graph of current state afr's to power at least they should have given you that with it make sure afr to power is logged Cheers A

Not a great place to register you street race experience but anyway.... ummmm ok

Usually need a slightly longer accell cable, i think 300zx? or VL ? it has been covered before cant remember where tho

You always have the forums themselves to pay and post, esp business traders etc, although there is one down the GC i think :S dont quote me on it

Godzilla motorsport, Matty Spry, Predator motorsports, there some of the good ones Cheers A

Take a photo of it, or its for a vacuum point to stop air leak, Cheers A

you can always relieve pressure next time by, removing fuse or fuel pump plug, start it up it will stall after 2 seconds, or another way is before attempting open the fuel tank cap after its sat a little bit and that will relieve pressure, also undo the bottom on first pull off put a bolt in it and that will stop most of the fuel coming out, then tackle the front, and replace. But there is no way you cannot lose no fuel out. Glad to help Cheers A

Dont forget to tune it or you may be doing more than that modification

Best bet call gcg and ask them for the right hose the engine its for the turbo you have and they be able to help you out or talk to a tuner they'll be able to ring up for some speedflow fittings and braided hose and bobs ya uncle mate. Cheers A

found my left over, Hear (Grommet Rubber - Fuel Hose -8mm (5/16") ) There ya go so its 8 mm and get some clamps as well it doesnt hurt to replace those shitty ones that are already on there Cheers A

If intending to run more than say roughly 20psi valve springs as some have experienced valve float above, rods you can pick eagles up for cheap these days Diff is non-essential but wouldnt hurt, gear set some have seen past the 400 mark some havent its touch and go there add power increase wear. Part from that the above post is a good start its a fun and expensive game. If you add the handling to it, theres more money and braking a little more money. Cheers

as stated best route is buy a N/A gts skyline and go from there, if that bothers you get a small 4 cyl car drive around for 3 years save more money and who knows with discussions of bio fuel and god knows what in 3 years things may be different that way 1. You have saved money all round on insurance and fuel and other things, 2. you can put that money towards something better?

8 mm fuel hose i think or is it 6 :S simple take the fuel filter down measure hose and buy, best bet plus the z201 also fits aswell Cheap and easy and can be bought from super cheap in 1-1.5 meter sections Good luck

I dare say the wrong in/out fittings were supplyed, most i think are dash 4 :S fittings should be able to get some new fittings or best talk to gcg about the problem they may just resend the appropriate one? Please explain what doesnt fit will help alot too Cheers A