mad082

the best bet would be to see what the actual cause of the car leaning out is. it would be worth getting yourself a consult cable to check the injector percentages. it may well be that it is the fuel pump the issue and not the injectors (although i wouldn't be suprised if it was injectors). or in the short term you could try getting the injectors professionally cleaned. most likely they will be at least a little bit blocked, so you should see at least a small gain in the amount of fuel they can deliver. as for the PFC being able to adjust more parameters, well yes and no. the nistune has a much more indepth mapping system (even if they have less map resolution). all up the nistune has something like 10 or 15 different maps which all interact with each other to a certain extent. the pfc has 2. 1 for ignition, 1 for fuel.

the temps might be a bit of an issue, but you could try wrapping the coils in a feather weight bike tube (0.6mm thick rubber). that would certainly stop any arcing from the main body to the bracket or rocker cover, but won't stop any internal arcing that is then being grounded through the bolts.

as kryzsiu said, is the car misfiring or running a bit rough? if yes then you need new coils.

yes they all have a fuel light. it may be blown though (or there is a short in the system or issue with the sender). but they generally all come on with about 10L left in the tank, so if you are filling up with less than around 55L then you aren't getting the tank low enough for the light to come on. there are a few ways to test if the light is working. 1 is to pull the return line off the injector rail and run it into a bucket then run the car until it either runs out of fuel or the light comes on (best to do when the car is low on fuel). another would be to pull the fuel gauge sender out of the tank. yet another would be to figure out which wire in the fuel sender wiring is the one that sends the signal to the dash and short it out and see if the light comes on. or you could simply drive around with a few litres of fuel in a jerry can and just keep driving until either the light comes on or you run out of fuel. i also have a feeling that in the 33's it doesn't come on until below the line. i don't think mine came on until it was at the top of the E

i think it's probably the fact that people view high km imports as worn out, while things like commodores and falcons are still sortt of young with that many kms in them because there are so many of them about running much higher kms.

the difference between the 2 is minimal, but the nistune retains all the advantages of the stock ecu, such as using the knock sensors properly, rather than simply to give a readout, and more comprehensive cold start tunes, and the ability to view fault codes (not sure if the pfc can do this), etc. power wise they should both be the same. main advantage of the pfc is the hand controller, but from a data viewing point of view, you can get an ecutalk unit that will show a lot of data. it runs off the consult port.

i own all the mario kart games and do play them on a semi regular basis, but MK 64 is the one that gets the most game time (about 99% of the time i spend playing MK games). it has a good balance of weapons, obsticles and the ability to powerslide is good too. also the fact that the tracks aren't flat ads a bit to the gameplay as you have to thing a little bit more, picking best lines up hills and over jumps, etc.

i'd drop the PFC idea and go for a nistune (unless you can get a pfc cheap - for similar money to the nistune).

see there is a major flaw in the plan of getting the excemption. if they look up the date that the car was registered in your name then they will see that it put into your name a long time after the car was put on the restricted list. so your chance of getting it approved is minimal. then you also have the question of whether an insurance company will cover you. they may let you take out the policy and give them money, but when it comes time to pay you out in the event of a crash they may simply refuse to pay your claim. moral of the story, you know the car is illegal to drive on your p's, so suck it up and move on. don't be a sook and try to find ways around it.

a mate of mine had a twin TB setup on his 200+rwp rb30e in his old r31. he said it wasn't really much of an improvement over a single TB.

+1 for being someone who will gladly say shit to peoples faces. the reason being that the idiots that then flip out and start swinging because of their inability to control their anger or think before they act usually forget to consider 2 things. 1: they are the ones who are going to end up getting fisted by the long arm of the law, and 2: someone who is in a fight because of rage won't fight as well as someone who is calm (this is why boxers try and stir up their opponent). this means they will just be swinging blindly making it much easier to dodge their punches as well as then kick the shit out of them while still being able to call it self defence. or to sum it up for the TL;DR people hemad, iaintevenmad

eggs zack lee

the stock cats have a temp sensor in them. it does nothing more than activate a light in the dash if the temp gets too high (meaning the cat has collapsed). more often than not they malfunction so on a bumpy road the light will come on and off and the best thing to do is unplug them. i have a feeling the wire comes out under the passenger seat area, not the trans tunnel though.

it's also rwd. i remember when it was first built

and where did i actually mention the ps1? the ps1 graphics weren't great but they were better than the n64.

if v8 supercars rules were relaxed they could be under the 2 minute mark as well. also it wasn't that the GTR's were banned, they simply ditched group A racing, just like the rest of the world did around that time (including japan). it's funny how people just assume that it was the bogans sick of seeing v8's lose that banned the GTR, but group a was already dying. it had been canned in the BTCC in 1990 and japan and germany both followed suit shortly after australia. so even in countries where the GTR never raced it was banned. you'd have to be a serious tinfoil hat wearer to think that the success of the GTR had something to do with that.

yes you could run full advanced timing on a RB25DET with the turbo removed, however it will still be putting out about 40hp less than a natro motor and use more fuel as you will have to floor it everywhere to not get overtaken by an 80 year old lady in her 1970's corolla also if you were able to run full advance on your natro without hearing any pinging then either you need to learn more about what pinging sounds like, or realise that not all pinging is audible to the human ear over the sound of the engine.

nah, it's awd. real men drive fwd ones, LOL

for starters there was nearly 10 years developement difference. secondly, they are in 2 different race categories and different rules apply to them. you might as well ask why a f1 car is faster than a formula ford. they are both open wheelers after all.... the changes in regulations are also the reason why current v8 supercars aren't really much faster than they were 10 years ago. back then they could buil motors that were time bombs putting out more power than they currently are as they didn't have to last as long. it is also the same reason why most f1 lap records haven't been broken in the past 5 years. all regulations these days are more for cost cutting measure (in other words, making things more reliable so they don't have to replaced after practice, qualifying and each race), the qualifying lap record for the v8's is a low 2:06 or was it a very high 2:05? i can't remember, either way lowndes set it last year in practice, but previously before that it was greg murphy from back in about 2006. see my first reply. but 4 seconds is a hell of a long time once you start getting to the pointy end of performance.

fuel economy wise they aren't much different to most other 6 cylinder cars, including commodores and falcons (little bit better in stop/start traffic, but in lighter traffic not much different). mechanical wise, they are similar to most other cars, but a little bit more expensive to fix.

based off roughly $1.45 a litre, $60 is only about 41L, meaning you still have about 24L left in the tank (if they are like a 33 with a 65L tank), and about 10 to 15L before the fuel light comes on. at 41L and 350kms you are using approx 11.7L/100kms, which isn't too bad for city driving.

i fkn know

there is 2 major reasons why a dirty air filter that is restircting airflow won't really affect fuel economy (at low load or constant speed). 1: the oxygen sensor 2: if a filter is restricting airflow then the AFM will be registering less airflow and therefor injecting less fuel, however you may see higher load values from the TPS to accomodate the extra throttle required to get the same speed or acceleration. in theory this would add in more fuel, but the oxygen sensor then over rules this. the best way to look at it is that the engine requires a certain amount of air to maintain a fixed speed. as long as the load value is low enough to keep it in closed loop mode then you will always use pretty much the same amount of fuel.

SNES is still my favouite console of all time. n64 graphics were fail. gameplay went down the tube because they were too busy making 3d platformers. i didn't mind golden eye, and mario kart 64 was the best of the mario kart games, but overall, i still prefered the SNES. now that snes games, such as donkey kong and mario are making a come back in 2d side scrollers on the WII i'm happy, but the fact that some of them can't be played with a regular controller shits me to tears. fkn hate having to shake the controller to get it to do certain moves because half the time it doesn't work. for this reason i haven't played much of the latest donkey kong game.

mostly highway, but it's far from being a flat trip. about 2.5kms from work heading home there is a 1.2km long hill that is just under 10%, and since the car has to be in 3rd it does increase the fuel usage, espeically since the car is still coming up to temp and on cold start enrichment. best i've gotten out of the commodore so far was 8.76L/100kms. the best out of the pulsar was 6.5L/100kms on a trip, but generally it is in the mid 7's to low 8's, but that's driving normally and not being a granny. LOL. as for not getting much better economy, yeah on a highway trip you will save anywhere from 1 to 2L/100kms, which is bugger all, but round town the economy difference will be double that. +1. the missus car (my old car) is a n15 SSS. very nice car to drive, decent on fuel. goes pretty good, and hasn't missed a beat in the 8 years we've had it. i got the commodore because we needed a second car and i wanted something cheap and comfy (can't beat aussie cars for seat comfort) to rack up the kms on (125km round trip to work everyday).