mad082

you should get plenty more kms out of the engine before it needs a rebuild. it really comes down to whether there is a physical failure or not. people have had to rebuild engines with well under 100,000kms on them because something let go, and others have gotten over 200,000kms on them and still going strong. if you want to find out what condition your motor is then get a compression test done as that is the only way to know how much life is left. no point asking for other peoples experiences because they don't really mean much in this sort of situation.

pretty sure the r34 isn't OBD2, it's consult. if the car was running like crap and then the engine light came on, pretty sure that you will have an issue with the coils. do a search on fault codes. you don't need a consult cable to check them, but it does make it easier.

is the spring that holds it in sitting properly?

NA and turbo motors require different cam profiles. you could put the turbo cams in and not get very good gains. certainly not really worth the effort. probably best off getting the cams reground, but you would need to find a profile of a NA cam for a neo motor. as for gains, you'd see maybe 10 to 15hp if you're lucky.

they sound awesome. i'd say they sound better than most skylines. they have a similar sound to a RB but with a deeper, meaner sound, especially with more boost. this is true, however they are rather talled geared which does affect how well they tow. the 5 speed ones gearing handle it better though. if you look at torque ratings on paper then no-one would buy 4wd's to tow with because a v8 family car and even the modern 6's put out similar torque (the 8's and turbo 6 often put out more), but because they are geared so tall they don't tow quite as well.

i have to disgree there about doing it first. if you do it first then you really need to get it retuned after each mod. best off starting with the exhaust, cooler and airfilter. then up the boost and then after that get an ecu.

to sum up the mafia's post, ask a stupid question, get a stupid answer. ask a stupid question that gets asked a lot and you will get a lot of stupid answers, lol

yeah they are good. my mother and sister both have them. i prefer the SSS pulsar though. has a bit more power and a better ride (feel sportier, less body roll).

if the o2 sensor is working then when cruising along at light throttle, or just sitting in neutral holding the revs constant at about 2000-2500rpm it should oscilate back and forth between 0.1v and about 0.9v i think it is from memory. if you have the consult setup then just look on the program. it should swing back and forth between rich and lean. when driving, if you floor it it should go rich, and when you back off and let the car slow down just using the engine braking it should go lean. also take note of your engine temp. it should come up to operating temp in a matter of minutes (well under 10 mins) of driving, and should sit at around 82 to 90 degrees (depending on the condition of your cooling system). if it sits much cooler than that you need a new thermostat. if you do a lot of stop/start driving, and floor it often then you can't really do anything to improve your fuel economy other than changing your driving style. the ecu only uses the o2 sensor when at light acceleration or when cruising at a steady speed. when you floor it it ignores it.

look up how to read fault codes. this will allow you to (possibly) get the exact cause of the problem without much dicking around.

oh and as for gearbox issues, this was mostly in the earlier models, and generally due to people thrashing the arse out of them (banging it on the limiter then dumping the clutch, etc). if you find one owned by an older person then it should be somewhat ok, especially since it is going to be for his missus.

this. sister in law had a 2.5L liberty. was no faster than a 2.0L impreza and was slower than the missus SSS pulsar. had a bit more low down power though, thanks to the bigger engine, but didn't have the same top end. it was ok, but nothing special. go turbo or go home, LOL

they are both good. it really comes down to finding one that hasn't been thrashed and your personal preference of ford vs holden. there are probably less ford v8's out there, but they are more likely to be owned by older guys. there are more holden v8's out there, but also more chance of it having had a hard life. that said, i'm a ford man, but for my daily i got a VT commodore (v6 wagon, which i'm really happy with. can fit so much stuff in there. i put our old 520L fridge in it to take it to the dump and it fit no worries with the seats folded down. and i can fit 4 bales of hay in the boot with the seats up, LOL) because in the later model stuff i prefer the interior of the commodores. both have comfy seats though. the ford v8 sounds better IMHO.

take a pic of it (as you said you are going to) and post it up so we can see what model it is and someone on here might have the same one and give you an idea of how to work it. general run down on how they work though, they allow the engine to keep running for a certain amount of time after you turn the key off (meaning you have to leave the car in neutral with the handbrake on in the case of a manual). this allows the engine to keep circulating the oil and coolant to cool the turbo down. this is mainly for if you have been giving it the beans just before pulling up, however the better option is to not fang it right before you are going to stop and just take it easy for the last km or so before you get to your destination (if you have fanged it at all).

SSS pulsar are a good car. the missus has one (was mine before she bought it off me when we were first going out). i would definately get another one.

go to a panel beater. best thing to do is to have a talk to people in your area to see who is good (either people at work, friends, etc, or in your state section of the forum), although any reputable panel shop should be able to do it just fine

i don't think it's stupid because of police attention. i think it's stupid because the flutter is air travelling backwards through the turbo, slowing it down and increasing spool time (and decreasing response) when you get on the gas again.

exactly what i said. i should also point out that when i had my 33 on the dyno it hit the limiter at 180kmh by the dyno speed reading, but it was past it on the gauge.

for that sort of money, with those sort of kms, you are scrapping the bottom of the barrel. won't be much to choose from.

if it's a r32, an rb25 will be a good place to start, lol *waits for all the RB20 fanbois to get sand in their vaginas

hi and welcome, but my god that bodykit and wing are hideous.

hi and welcome, to answer what you said about the z32 AFM, they are the same size as the stock skyline AFMs but they read in a slightly different resolution so they don't max out quite as easily (allowing a higher max power before they max out). you do have to have either a piggy back ecu or an aftermarket ecu to run one though. you can't simply hook one up to the stock ecu.

if you want to advertise a business on here then contact the mods and become a trader

the car has probably been in some sort of accident. i'd hazard a guess that the rear K frame is bent. a friends 180sx has a similar issue after she dropped a wheel off the edge of the road and spun out into a ditch (wasn't being silly, just wasn't paying attention). the wheel was out of alignment really badly because of the tie rod (or whatever the rear wheel equivilant is) or something like that, and it was much straighter when it was replaced, but the K frame is still bent so the alignment is still out of whack

i have a few duck callers. put one on my 33 for a laugh. ok 2 things, 1st is that he was talking about the turbo spinning at that speed, not the engine, and he is correct. secondly, you are getting feedback. the feedback you are getting is that it's a stupid idea