mad082

you have to take into account error in the speedo unit. from my experience in multiple imports, generally the speed limiter kicks in at an indicated (approx) 190kmh. this is because they often factor in a few percentage over read so that the speedo reads faster than the actual speed so that you don't get booked so much (and because it is a legal requirement from what i gather)

what sort of rims they are and what sort of car they are going on means bugger all (they are done off wheel and tyre balance, not just wheels). as for whether they can put them on inside the tyre, well they could, but since they balance the tyre once it's already on the rim, that makes it a bit more difficult, plus the fact that if one comes unclipped or the glue lets go then it will probably puncture the tyre, so not a good idea.

the oil will just be from the rocker covers. extremely common problem. when you check the manifold, just look and see if all 16 manifold studs are there (2 per cylinder). it's common for a few of them to break off, thus resulting in a leak as well as a gasket rattle.

they may not be making any profit when on sale at $48. the way big business play the game is that they put a few products on sale at or below cost as a draw card to get people in in the hope that they will buy other items while they are there. i'm not defending EB, just simply pointing out that because you see something at some low price on special, it doesn't mean that they aren't making a loss on it at that price. also to put it into perspective, most EB stores in shopping centres would have rents of at least 100k a year, but some would be up around 200k a year in the bigger city stores. so that's 200k a year PROFIT that they need to make just to pay the rent, let alone pay wages, electricity, insurance, etc. very few people who haven't owned a business just how much money it takes to run a business.

with all the same amount of peripherals on, the LSx is still a lighter motor since it is an all alloy block, rather than the cast iron block of the skyline. also being a V motor means that it is a shorter motor (only 4 cylinders long, instead of 6) so it can be put further back in the engine bay

you do realise that putting a rb30 bottom end into your r34 would also be illegal? if you want something faster than your r34, get a late model commodore or falcon and put a shorter diff ratio in it. won't be quite as good on the highway as it would be with the stock ratio, but round town it will be much faster. or a 3.5L v6 manual magna. they will do the 1/4 mile in under 15 seconds (my last one did it in 14.8 with just a catback)

ok 2 things, the rattle on boost may be a sign that there is a damaged exhaust manifold gasket or broken manifold studs, or possibly the turbo has come loose on the manifold. the boost issue could be caused by the leaking manifold, but it also sounds like an issue i had with a turbosmart dual stage manual boost controller. what was happening in my case was that there was a T piece with a 1 way valve in it. 1 hose went to the intercooler, another to the wastegate and the 3rd to the controller. the issue was that there was also a tiny bleed hole in the T piece. long story short, the bleed hole was blocked so when you lifted off the wastegate was still being held open by the pressure between the 1 way valve and the wastegate. this meant that when you changed gears the next gear had no acceleration and took for ever to build boost. i would be more inclined to say you have an exhaust leak or possibly an intake leak. if it was an intake leak then the car should be running rich though and it may break down (misfire) when you floor it.

if you were to drive off after about a minute of idling you'd probably find that you would get to over 50 degrees after about a minute or two of driving (so probably about 2 mins faster than by letting it idle).

there was another thread about this the other day. look it up for answers

fight it and go to the media (those shit shows like today tonight and ACA) if need be, they will have a field day with it.

this is spot on. the retaillers make bugger all on software and consoles. consoles are worse than games, the retailers generally make less than 20% on them at RRP. games are about 25 to 30% from memory. so a game that sells for $120 it probably cost the retailer $90 to $100. unlike what the general public think, or what cockheads like choice magazine like to make out, it isn't the retailer who is making all the money from the games. it is the electronics companies who are laughing all the way to the bank because they make all the money and the retaillers are the ones who cop all the shit about prices. choice magazine would to see everyone buy shit online from overseas sites, and then they would whinge and bitch about how aussie companies all over the place are laying off staff due to declining sales and come out with stupid things like "if they were more competitive then they wouldn't lose sales to overseas markets". well how about this, lets drop the minimum wage to $7 an hour like it is in america and then retailers can drop their prices because their overheads are less. at the end of the day though, people will still have the same amount of money in their pockets.

idling for 5 mins is a waste of fuel, and is probably doing more damage than good. the reason being that at idle the car takes longer to warm up than when driving sedately, plus the fact that only the engine oil is heating up and not the gearbox or diff oil. also some people say that at idle you don't get quite as good combustion so you have the bores being washed down by fuel a bit and this reduces the ability of the oil to lubricate. generally speaking, 10 mins of sedate driving should be enough (15 in winter) as long as your thermostat is working properly as the coolant temp should be approaching operating temp within a few minutes. as for the soot on the ground, as someone said above, it is just condensation mixing with soot.

looks like this spam thread was semi successful

i haven't sold any of the cars i've won or bought. don't know how many i've got. a few hundred i think. i just don't waste my money as soon as i get it in case i need it for an expensive car, but i do occasionally go through the car lots and buy anything of interest.

if it shuts off after the exact same amount of time everytime then it definately sounds like an issue with wiring of either the alarm or the turbo timer. bypass them one at a time and see if it solves the problem.

i've got close to 20 million credits. i got down to about 8 million after i bought my ferrari F10

i called an end to the thread because everytime someone posts factual information he ignores 99% of it and comes back with crap, like comparing an AWD car from 1 racing category to a RWD from a different racing category with totally different regulations. then he just keeps going back to that comparison. if this thread was being discussed intelligently then i wouldn't mind, however since it is just a few of us posting factual information and the OP posting his one comparison over and over, there is no point continuing.

that more comes from a cost effectiveness point of view, rather than an engineering point of view. for example, the cost of buying a natro skyline, then doing a turbo conversion works out to be more expensive than selling the natro and buying a gts-t by a few thousand dollars in most cases, and you then get the advantage of stronger gearbox, LSD and better brakes, etc. as for engineers certs stopping the cops hounding you, it doesn't stop them pulling you over and giving you a serve. it just stops them fining you, since they won't know the mods are engineered until they pull you over.

they never came with them from factory, they were fitted by a previous owner.

the mods might as well close this thread. it is just trolling now since you use small amounts of info dodgily put together to prove your point, while all the real world examples show that you are wrong. the simple fact is that if rwd was faster, then the r32 GTR would've been RWD and not AWD. nissan designed the GTR to win the group A championships. if RWD was better they wouldn't have invented the ATESSA system.

quiet you.....

you would want to change the oil as even though it hasn't been driven the oil would've degraded over time. this is why most car manuals say to change the oil at 5000/7500/10000kms (depending on the car) or every 6 months. whichever comes first.

tyre a tyre shop. they will probably need to see it to match it up to the one it needs. is it a locknut on just 1 wheel stud, or is it the allenkey type nut on all of them? if it is just the allenkey type, try autobarn or repco

engine number would also be a way to see what series it is.

says that i am still waiting on you to accept... unless you have accepted in the past few days since i last looked. the missus is watching tv so i can't check without getting lectured for 3 hours