mad082

best bet would be to buy a new light. either go to a wreckers or to nissan.

rb26 rods are a direct replacement for rb25 from what i can find out (had the same thought so did a bit of looking)

no it isn't that. it is the fact that he thought he was in a fast car when it is reasonably common knowledge that they are nothing special, and a lot of us are sick of reading threads that go along the lines of: "i was in my uber fast stock natro skyline when a stock hunk of crap family taxi pulled up beside me at the lights. i thought i'd show them how uber fast a natro skyline is and how crap their car is so i floored it when the light went green. somehow they managed to use some sort of black magic or somehow managed to bend the laws of physics because they managed to beat me. surely this can't be right. did they use magic or should i go kill myself for bringing shame upon my family and upon all skyline owners?"

yeah whatever is causing the misfire will most likely make it start better when fixed.

yeah the rb20 has a seperate ignitor and they do cause problems that are the same symptoms as dodgy coils. one major advantage is that if you have a mate with a rb20 or s1 rb25 then you can swap them over to try in just a few mins (much easier than swapping coils)

maybe try pulling the cams out and see what happens.

from what i understand japan has the same "premium unleaded" fuels, or at least similar ones to us, but the 100 ron is called "super unleaded". maybe some of the members on here who have been to japan, or live there could fill us in on a bit more info.....

a mate of mine had his 33 on the weighbridge at his work, came in at about 1420kg with fuel and a bit of gear in it. as for NA skylines being slow, yes they are. the missus SSS pulsar will keep up with or beat them (depending on mods). an auto commodore or falcon will give them a run for their money and a manual one will beat them, especially with a few mods, and a manual 3.5L magna will shit all over them, especially a vrx version. a lot of P-platers buy skylines thinking they are fast, then they find out that they aren't some uber special import after a car that they overlooked because they thought they were slow beats them in the traffic light GP.

just do the usual maintenance (regular oil changes, etc). then just replace stuff as it breaks.

check the spark plugs as well. pull them out, look at the colouring as well as get a feeler gauge to measure the gap. also inspect the coils for any signs or melting, etc (that's a sign they are arcing out). if they all seem fine then the issue may be fuel related and it might be worth putting the car on a dyno to get them to check the AFR's.

got any evidence to back that up? i would really love to get some clarification on this because if they were designed to run on 100 octane fuel then all of the skylines in australia should ping their arses off when run on 98 octane fuel at stock timing, yet i was able to run advanced timing on mine without any pinging. i'm guessing that they were only tuned to run on premium unleaded (either 95 or 98ron), not super unleaded (100ron)

+1 hackers need to get a girlfriend and learn that there is more to life than throwing a tantrum and hacking someone because they did something they didn't like. most of these hackers would throw the biggest tantrum if they were on the recieving end of something like this. i don't have any of my bank account/cc details on there so that side of it doesn't affect me.

they are the same. shouldn't need to change the loom as the plugs should be the same. won't gain any performance unless your old coils are shagged and it's misfiring.

if there's not much panel damage and most of the damage is only the exhaust and suspension then won't even be close to a write off. how does it feel to drive? do all the wheels look like they are pointing in the right direction (when the steering wheel is straight are the front wheels straight? most likely the suspension will be somewhat ok. take it to a suspension place to get it looked at and get a wheel alignment done.

+1 for turbotech. worked better than the turbosmart i had.

nah, as far as i know it's only the r34

it's just typical of the way things always happen though, the minority ruin it for the majority, and then the same minority get all upset when it happens, and then instead of maning up and taking responsibilty for their actions they act like a bunch of little kids and fight back, thus ruining it even more for the majority. lets face it, if anyone one of these hackers was the one whose product was getting hacked they'd do the exact same thing as sony is.

anonymous are denying the attack

could just simply be a faulty coil. occasionally people get a bad one

pretty sure it will be caused by your coils. i think from memory that in the r34's the check engine light comes on when the coils are breaking down.

anonymous has denied doing it. but the fact is that any hackers who disrupt end users to this extent have missed the point in their misguided attempts to "stick it to the man". they need to find a way to disrupt sony without screwing over the general user for 4 days.

pretty sure there are a few higher powered cars running this. spark strength shouldn't be much different to stock coils, and if your coils are breaking down then they would have stronger spark.

yeah sounds like the water pump is gone

you could try elimination causes of the car not starting. for starters, turn the car over a bit and then quickly pull out a spark plug. if it is wet then you know the ecu is firing the injectors. then get a spare spark plug, remove one of the coils, put in the spare spark plug, have someone turn the car over and earth the tip of the spark plug out on the engine and see if there is spark. if both of these show the engine is getting spark and fuel then you can pretty much rule out the ecu as there is another fault. if neither happen then you can narrow it down to 1 of 2 things. 1: fried ecu. 2: crank angle sensor isn't working. if it gets spark but no fuel then i'd be looking at the fuel pump.

pretty sure there is some sort of alloy housing that the hoses connect to there somewhere. they tend to corrode a bit over time and the force of removing the old hose and fitting the new one and clamping it tight may have damaged it and then on the way home it let go.