mad082

Nah i don't have anything but my boss might. He has a bit of old gear. Won't be single speed though. Will be good stuff though

who cares if they scrap the evo badge, that's not to say that they won't replace it with some other sports car or simply a different badge

the LS1 engines holden used were detuned compared to the US versions, that why they had issues. they weren't a true chev spec engine. and while on the subject of expensive cars with engine problems, we all know that the r35 never has any engine or gearbox issues and the earlier, equally expensive GTR's never had any issues with oil starvation, etc. lets put it this way, would you rather buy a v8 commodore/falcon with 300,000kms on the clock, or turbo with 300,000kms on the clock (both original engines, gearboxes, etc)? i'd sure as hell take the v8 because you know that even if it has had a somewhat hard life you'll still get a few years out of it without needing a rebuild, while the import probably already needs it.

i tow a trailer behind the missus SSS pulsar. tows my 3.6m boat just fine too. will sit on 120kmh easily (and still get better than 10L/100km fuel economy) and up hills i only have to drop down to 4th to stay on 100kmh (3rd if it's a really steep hill where i would have to drop down to 4th without the trailer). but that said, if i was a P plater i'd be looking at a commodore or falcon (or even magna) over a natro skyline. a stock auto falcon or commodore will beat a stock manual skyline and a manual falcon/commodore/magna will really beat it (3.5L manual magna will do the 1/4 mile in high 14 seconds, which will keep up with, or beat a stock gts-t). as for interior wise, i agree with all the people who said they are a much better place to be on a long trip. i'm tall so the reach adjustable steering really helps me be able to get the seat back far enough to not be in pain after a few hours. i find the seats more comfortable and the interiours don't look that bad to me. the suspension is better for the shit aussie roads. i currently drive the missus pulsar to work every day (50 minute trip from gympie to noosa each way) and i'm looking at getting a cheap vt or vx commodore to drive. fuel economy won't be that much worse (will still do under 10L/100kms on the highway) and it's going to be much nicer to sit in as well as being better for overtaking. also i know that even if i only pay 4 or 5k for one i know that even though it may have over 200,000kms on the clock it will still keep going for ages. also servicing/repair costs will be cheaper, and to be honest, i honestly don't care if i maintain it properly because i know that it doesn't really matter because they are detuned to take into account the laziness of most aussies when it comes to servicing. and if something breaks, unless it makes the car not run (or makes an annoying rattle, etc) i won't bother replacing it because i don't care, lol. when i had my r33 everytime you drove it you'd be listening out for any little noise that sounded wrong, or any little vibration that felt wrong, so very rarely could you actually enjoy the car. when i had my commodore, falcon or magnas i'd just hop in, drive/thrash them to my destination, hop out and walk away without a care in the world. plenty of people bag them out without having driven them. if you hop out of a skyline or a little 4 cylinder into a commodore or falcon you will be immensly impressed with the amount of power they have at 1500rpm, even taking into account how tall the gearing is (1st gear in an auto aussie 6/8 is pretty close to 2nd gear in a manual skyline). also if you have family then very few imports will give you the space for the money. i'm 6'3 and in the back seat of a lancer (using that as an example because someone earlier mentioned evo's) my head touches the back window and my legs have to be removed and stored in the boot, lol (not to mention that half the japanese seats feel like park benches with 5mm of foam put on them). i like imports. i like big aussie cars. i like them both for different reasons.

RB stands for Runs Bearings and SR stands for Shits Rockers, lol the design of the CA is very similar to a RB with 2 pots cut off, but not exactly spot on, and certainly not a RB26. rb20 maybe. from what i am aware, the RB30ET was a holden design.. sort of. nissan designed the engine (holden used it because of new emissions laws being introduced and getting the old 202 up to standard wasn't worth it, in a similar way that nissan scrapped the RB and SR at the end of the 90's/early 00's), holden did the turboing.

Sure you can, because the turbo is in the sticker so no sticker = no turbo.......

i'm the same. my best time is 3 seconds off. on 1 attempt i managed to get a first lap time that would've allowed me to pass, but cocked up on the second lap and got DQ'd

PSN name = mad-082

just hit level 30 and am attempting the sebastian vettel special challenge. it is fkn stupid. you come out of a corner, stop turning and accelerate and then it keeps turning you halfway off the track so then you have to turn back the other way, resulting in you speaking off the track. or you go to turn into a corner and you just turn the directional arrow and you've either cut the corner or rammed the wall. or if you go within a few metres of a kerb and it magically pulls you out onto the grass. out of about 20 attempts so far i've managed to finish 2, and i'm still about 8 seconds off getting bronze.

that isn't that bad. mate of mine had a 32 on his dyno that went off the scale (think the lowest the wideband went to was either 9 or 10) and then left a big black wet patch on the wall behind the dyno. it was pretty much pissing out raw fuel, LOL. also what the car runs are full throttle has little to do with fuel economy when driving sensibly. when you are only using light throttle (accelerating gently or at a steady speed), if your o2 sensor is working properly then your AFR will only be around 14.5:1. this is because the ecu is in closed loop mode and it uses the o2 sensor. if you press the accelerator down more then it may jump out of closed loop mode and it goes back to the ecu mapping (and ignores the o2 sensor) and the AFR's will jump down to around the 11 to 12 range (depending on what rpm you are at). some people try to get better fuel economy by not reving the car out past a certain rpm range. this helps, but if you use 50 or 60% throttle below that rev range you will still get average fuel economy. you can rev up to 6000rpm with only low throttle (lets say 15%) and get better fuel economy than someone in a higher gear that is using 60% throttle and only reving to 3000rpm. but then at the same time, cruising along at a steady speed it can be better to use a higher gear and a fraction more throttle. i did a test with a consult cable on the missus pulsar. on dead flat ground at 60kmh 5th gear got 10% better economy than 4th, but the moment you got to the slightest incline 4th gear was a fraction better, but they were both better than 3rd gear.

how has it come off? was it the old weld broke? pipe rusted through? muffler wasn't welded to the pipe and the clamp has come off? if it was rusted through then it will need a new exhaust system as you won't be able to weld the muffler to the rusted pipe. you will end up with more holes than when you started. if the weld broke then you could get it welded again, but you would also need to sort out why it broke to start with. check whether it is missing some of the rubber mounts.

just while on the subject of jacks, a mate of mine has one with a little foot lever on the side next to the handle. it jacks it up like pumping the handle, but it does it faster (and therefor has less lifting force) but it means that when you slide it under the car, you just stomp on it a few times and it has raised it up to be touching the car and taking up some of the slack of the suspension. it is excellent for if you have slide the jack under the car a bit and can only move the handle a little way. you just reach under, pump the little lever a few times and the jack is touching the body, then you can use the handle to start lifting the car.

it's cause he was granny shifting and not double clutching like he should.......

in the case of where i live, low rents help a bit. mate of mine had a workshop, was only paying $250 a week in rent (was a small workshop though). also he didn't have a receptionist, etc. where he worked before he went out on his own, they had 3 guys working there (2 mechanics - owner was 1 of them - and a TA) and the owners wife was the office lady. generally all 3 guys were working 10 hour days. another workshop in town charges about the same, has about 4 guys working there. but these businesses aren't all frills like some i have seen. no brand new car every 2 years, no big cushy lounge in the office, no big screen tv in the office, one office lady and any left over work was done by the boss rather than hiring 2 people to do the work of 1.2 people, etc. if i could've been making $110 profit an hour at my business (by profit i mean gross profit, not net profit, since i was in retail) i wouldn't have had to shut down and i would've been rolling in money (well not rolling in it, but pretty well off, over 50k a year before tax for both me and the missus).

correct. do race mod, then go and bolt on all the power mods, etc that it doesn't get with the race preparation.

Pretty sure i used the minolta that you win from doing the like the wind race, which you can win with a race prepared Corvette zr1 (with full engine mods, etc, as well). I just had a quick go at doing the first race of the all stars race in the vette and it will do the job if don't make too many mistakes.

Ok i just read the official update list. A gew things to mention. theyy say there was an error where the car wouldn't sound different when adding a turbo or exhaust and this has been fixed. ai drivers have been improved Rewards have been changed Remote play is available multiple monitors can be used (but it sounds like you need multiple ps3's to do it)

Where is this 2.5 mill race you speak of? In my latest round the best is 800k. It's a race for any model rx7 on the eifel circuit

Ok so the used car lot has changed slightly. Performance points on cars has been introduced, you can change tyres from in the settings menu, you can change the cars power output like on gt5 prologue (change it by %), can add ballast weight, can change controller sensitivity. Those just what i have found so far

New 301mb update out today. Currently downloading it. If there is anything of interest i'll post it

depending on how heavy the game is on resources it can sometimes cause a slight jerkyness in the recording, but most of the time it's fine.

rice engine bay = you pop the bonnet and every single thing screams "look at me!!!" whether it is a performance mod or something normal made to look like it is a performance mod, such as an anodised oil filler cap. basically when standard items have been replaced with something brightly coloured for no apparent reason

you can most certainly fit them yourself, just takes a little bit of work. just get some using the same part number as what the cefiro uses (can get munroe brand ones - i think - from autobarn, but they will cost you about $80 from memory). i was going to do it for the missus pulsar but was too lazy.

i've driven with a short shifter. hated it. much prefer the stock throw.

yeah start by putting the thermostat back in. then find where the leak is coming from. then take the car to a radiator specialist and get them to check it out. probably pretty clogged up. or the clutch fan is stuffed, but they should be able to diagnose that.