mad082

the skyline turbo is much more prone to failure than the sr turbo. the sr turbos simply do the occasional oil seal. the rb turbos either do the oil seal, or have the exhaust wheel break into a million pieces. also, is your r34 an auto as well? if not then that is a terrible comparison to compare an auto 180 to a manual skyline. that said, the auto s13's are an absolute slug compared to the manual ones, while an auto skyline isn't that much different to a manual one.

+1 for getting another door. the cost of getting it repainted will be cheaper than getting that one fixed and painted.

for a daily i'd stick with an AFM, but that isn't to say you can't get the same sort of results from a map sensor. depending on what sort of power you are looking at, i'd say to look into getting a nistune for your ecu. bang for buck it's probably one of the best ecu's around. installed and tuned should cost you around $1000, and with the money you save over other ecu's you could upgrade the AFM to a z32 unit.

ahahaha, 'MSPEC' plates on a 33 gts-t. that still makes me laugh how many people get mixed up between M-spec (a version of the r34 GTR) and type M (a version of the r32 and r33 gts-t. not sure if it was also a model of the r34 gt-t)

i'd had the thought of doing that one day, but i don't think the engine would fit in the engine bay that easily (mainly due to the height of it).

could be a plug has come loose, or a wire is damaged or the speedo sender in the gearbox is knackered. i'd start by getting under the car and checking the plugs on the side of the gearbox.

the gains would be minimal (under 5hp). i doubt you'd see even 1psi of pressure.

bingo

imagine the torque of a v8 through the 4wd system. would be great fun.

either ca or sr. you will have trouble fitting a rb in there (not saying it can't be done, just saying it's much harder than the 4 pots). mate of mine has a 1200 ute with a ca in it. goes pretty good. if you go a sr and want to spend time at high rpm just put some rocker stoppers in and you'll be right.

more often than not the leak comes from around the tail light. you need to pull them off and reseal them. i think there is a write up about it on the forum somewhere.

pretty much spot on. in an auto you just sit there with your left foot hard on the brake, right foot on the accelerator stalling it up to the point just before it starts to move. light goes green, foot off the brake, accelerator to the floor and you will out in front against most manuals, which then makes them panic a bit more and makes them more likely to miss a gear, etc.

the soarer must've had some other work done to it because the stock 1/4 mile times of them are low to mid 16's. stock r32 gts-t should do it in just under 15 seconds. an exhaust and air filter won't get you that much more power. if it had had a manual conversion as well then that would help a bit, but v8 soarers aren't that powerful and weigh a lot (about 1800kg).

yeah a lot of the older cars take a bit to turn start which i like. also i found that a lot of cars sound reasonably good if you go to chase view and keep them lower in the rev range. i think that part of it is that so many of these cars we are only used to hearing at lower revs. take a skyline for example. the usual RB growl is most obvious lower in the rev range and starts to change a bit higher in the rev range.

unless your cooling system is brand new and totally clean running distilled water won't make much difference since most cars cooling systems will have a fair bit of crap in them that will make the water dirty (so to speak). a lot of people would freak out if you told them you were only running straight water since they forget that the more pressurised water is the higher the boiling point. at 1 bar (which is roughly what most radiator caps are rated at, or 2 bar if you want to be technical and take into account atmospheric pressure) water boils at about 120 degrees so it is more than fine to use.

actually the official time for the supra was around 6.8 seconds, so there is bugger all in it. the times are close enough that whoever is the better driver (or whoever has better quality tyres) will win. rolling start i'd say the magna would win because being fwd they are harder to get off the line.

not if you do the online seasonal events. i'm up to level 27 or 28 without doing any of the endurance events and i still haven't finished over half of the extreme events, as well as 1 or 2 of the events in the bracket below that.

i know the magna is fwd, i've owned 2 of them. my point being that a mildly modded magna will beat all of the cars you've listed, and how will you feel after losing a traffic light grand prix to a crappy fwd magna? lol as for the supra being sold locally, are you refering to the markIII 70 series (ma/ga/jza70)? as far as i am aware the markIV (jza80) was never sold locally (feel free to provide info that proves me wrong though).

i don't think it's when they cause a restriction, probably just when they they start to not be required (i know when we had a car where the clutch fan died the temp was fine on the highway), since if you look at the higher temps they keep running all the time, so they must still provide some extra airflow at higher speed.

also put that hose back on so that your bov works, otherwise you will find the car stalls everytime you stop at a set of lights.

baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahaha. biggest over estimate ever. take a zero off your estimate and it would be much more accurate. front dirve shaft wouldn't be an issue with a high mount turbo. just get a custom made sump (or take to the stock one with a hammer, LOL) or see if a sump from a cruise or something like that would fit.

Does anyone remember the old nissan patrol ads with the old guy saying "i've always been a cruiser man". Well that is what the ps3 vs xbox or gt5 vs forza debate will always be like (with either side being the grumpy old cruiser owner who is refusing to acknowledge any good points about the other console/game).

Most people (especially xbox or pc fans or just gt haters) get completely messed up when calculating how long it took to make gt5. They assume that gt5 went into production the moment gt4 was finished. They also forget that there were 3 mini gt5 games released before gt5 plus gt for psp. They also ignore the fact that the physics engine from gt5 prologue was scrapped and wasn't used in gt5. And finally, gt5 only had 2 official release date delays. The first from march to November then the few week delay then. Any other 'delay' was purely off rumoured release dates. If i start a rumour saying that forza 4 is coming out tomorrow then if or when it comes out i can rant on about how delayed it has been like all the forza fans do about gt5.

On normal races you don't get tyre wear, just the heat level. On endurance races you do and when they wear out grip is extremely low.

i love stuff like this that goes against conventional ideas (and in turn, pisses people off, lol). you would need to get a custom bell housing made up for the gearbox, unless the 2jz mates up with one of the landcruiser gearboxes, but then it's a case of trying to get that to fit in the trans tunnel. then it would just be a case of mounting the engine and hoping it has enough clearance. rb26/30 would be a cheaper option though