mad082

as someone said above, a RWC isn't a check of the cars legality. at least in QLD it is no longer actually called a RWC but a safety inspection, and if you are driving a car with illegal mods it isn't up to the inspector to point these out to you. he only has to check certain aspects of the vehicle and pass it on those grounds. if the illegal mods aren't in one of those aspects then it will pass, but you can still get fined for it. also just because the tint/privacy glass is stock doesn't mean that it is legal either. you have to remember that the skylines (other than certain r32 GTRs) aren't an ADM car, so if a compliance workshop did a dodgy job and didn't remove the tint when they should have then that doesn't mean it is legal.

What is the "whole duping thing"? And i like the seasonal events. the GTR one was easy once i got the r35. even the nascar one wasn't too bad.

ahahahahaha. what would be good would be if you could organise an online team for them so each person just has to be online at a certain time and they take over from you when you pit. then you could have each person do say 2 hours per turn and if you had 4 or 5 people then you'd only need to have your turn every 8 or 10 hours. for the 4 hour race you could just do an hour each.

i don't honestly know for sure, but i don't think it would take too much to get it to work if it is different.

i started doing the 200km grand valley endurance on the weekend. got halfway through and gave up cause i was getting bored and had a headache. they really need to put a save function in the pits. with the 24 hour races do they really think anyone is actually going to sit there for 24 hours and race it in 1 hit? i can garantee that very few people will do it. hell in the real 24 hour races the drivers don't stay awake for the whole 24 hours, so if they want to make it more realistic then allow you to either save or make it so you have to use some of your B-spec drivers as well.

generally 95 models are all series 1.5. you can tell by a few things though, such as the TPS and AFM. also the fact that without the ignitor unit the car simply wouldn't run

yes depending on price.

sometimes it can be the AAC, other times it can be weak coils or old plugs, or it can be an atmo bov (or blocked off bov/no bov).

i think that the OP would most certainly say that all this arised from legal threats from powerchip and would use that as evidence, which may be enough to get the matter thrown out of court. would be good if the OP could counter sue for legal costs to try and teach dumbass wayne a lesson.

I have playtv for my ps3. the pc is for downloaded content. When i'm not so lazy i will stream the video to the ps3.

if the springs are already on the shocks then they are a piece of piss to do. rears are a little bit of a pain, but the fronts are super easy. take maybe half an hour to 45 mins to do. exhaust is also relatively easy (difficulty level depends on whether it is a cat back system or a turbo back system). if it's a cat back system then it's a piece of piss. you should be able to use all the existing mounts. turbo back is a bit more fiddly but is still relatively easy. just try and put as much of it together before attaching it to the car. if you can jack the car up a decent way (blocks under the jack if need be) then you should be able to get it in in 1 piece. the clutch can be done at home, however it is a real pain in the arse to do (i had the clutch for pivot bolt break when the car was in the garage once so i dropped the box out myself. not the easiest thing to do). brake lines aren't that hard to do. bleeding is relatively simple. if you aren't in a rush then you can gravity bleed them. just make sure you have at least 2 bottle of brake fluid. i used this method on my old commodore when flushing out the old fluid. easy to do with 1 person.

xbox online is for nerds. actually, a majority of online play is for nerds

ah yeah, i always get confused between the 2 (can never remember which is which). it was an 040 that i fitted in a mates 33 who had no issues.

i'd hit up a few wreckers or look through the for sale section of here. you might find someone wrecking a car who you can buy one off.

Yeah i read that the other day. Apparently the last time redbull said something about gt5 they also mentioned another track not in the game (spa)

In my case it was because it was free. it was just the old work computer. Simply plugged in a 3.5mm stereo to RCA cable for sound and a VGA cable for video. Even being a single core celeron with inbuilt video it still copes fine for what i do with it.

yeah that aspect of it is another reason why brokers are more popular these days as they are the ones who get to put up with all the bullshit at the car yards

if it is supposed to have a 1.2 cap and you had a 0.9 cap then things may not have been working as effeciently as they could've and going to a 1.2 cap would be a good idea. on the other hand if it is only supposed to have a 0.9 cap then i wouldn't recommend going to a higher pressure cap for the following reasons: if you need it to sort out an overheating issue then you should try to find the actual cause of the overheating issue rather than bypassing the problem a bit. also if you raise the pressure of the cap then you are putting more stess on the rest of the system and may find that if there is a weak spot in the cooling system it will vent pressure there instead of the cap, which can result in blown hoses, etc. but first you need to have the standard pressure of the cap confirmed, which i'm not able to do.

might not need to be done for the PFC. if you have an ecu with a hand controller you can simply match the timing on the ecu to the timing with the light. it doesn't have to be in base timing mode. same goes for a consult cable and a consult program, however some consult programs also have a base idle/timing mode function in them. which allow you to lock it into that mode without having to unplug the TPS

i have heard both good and bad stories from people using brokers (the bad resulted in the guy having to take the broker to court to cover about 30k worth of repairs because the broker had done a dodgy). some people use them because they are lazy or don't have the time to go to the auctions, etc, which is fair enough. i wouldn't do it just to save money though as with a bit of research you can easily do that yourself. if you are good at getting a good deal when buying stuff then you are essentially paying someone to save you money and it sort of defeats the purpose. on the other hand if you have paid the asking price for everything you have ever bought then it might be worth looking into as what you pay them will more than likely be less than you save.

was it still accelerating or was it maxed out? wonder what my veyron could do? i'm guessing not quite as high, but i hit 405 on the daytona back straight before slamming into the wall, lol.

that seems to come down to how people install them. i put one in a mates 33 and he was able to get the fuel light to come on (and stay on, not just flash on for a seconds because he was going up a hill or something like that) without any fuel surge issues.

pretty sure with disconnecting the TPS you have to have the car warm, turn the car off, unplug the TPS, start the car again, rev to over 2500rpm 3 times in 5 seconds. this put the ecu into base idle/timing mode. once done checking the timing simply turn the car off and plug back in the TPS. and as 89cal said, the old ignition lead method is the easiest and most reliable way to get the timing light to work properly.

you could also try either a wreckers or some of the car auctions.

ahahaha, if you search "powerchip" guess what is now the 3rd result........