mad082

both the r34 and the supra are also imports bog standard manual vrx magna will do it in pretty much 7 seconds flat and will run high 14 seconds 1/4 miles. add an exhaust and you will see mid 14 second 1/4 miles.

higher rating octane fuel will give ZERO power increases in a correctly operating engine if the engine was designed for the lower octane fuel. if however you start increasing the timing then you can run more advanced timing with the higher octane fuel so you can actually see a small increase in power (to put this into perspective, a natro SR20 will gain 3hp from about 2 or 3 degrees more timing. personally tested on back to back runs). if your car was designed to run on premium and you run it on unleaded then you will see a bigger difference when you go back to premium after running unleaded. i think a lot of people don't realise what the octane rating actually means. it simply means that the higher the number, the harder it is to ignite the fuel. octane rating has pretty much nothing to do with the actual explosive energy of the fuel. in most cases higher octane fuels have a lower energy output.

possibly try a new cap and see if that makes a difference (make sure you get the same pressure cap). possible causes of overheating are: dodgy cap dodgy thermostat leak in the system (including blown head gasket) dodgy water pump blocked radiator (which a flush will do nothing to help) shagged clutch fan (although driving at highway speed it won't overheat)

i think i've posted this on here before, but this is how nissan runs the thermos on the SSS pulsar

it is to a certain extent. if you were getting the car for super cheap then you just take it as it is. if i bought a skyline, for example, and it was 2 or 3000 and it had some oil leaks i wouldn't even bother pointing them out to the seller when i bought it. on the other hand if i paid 8 or 9000 then i would be using it as a way to knock the price down and fix it myself, or paying a higher price and have the seller fix it. basically you have to take the price of the car into account when looking for faults. you don't buy a car dirt cheap (not saying that this car was, simply making a statement) and expect it to be in the same condition as when it left the showroom. i think you should have a look and see where the oil is actually leaking from. it may be an extremely easy and cheap thing to fix and cost you less time and money than chasing after the mechanic that did the roadworthy. it may also simply be that oil has accumulated over time and it is now to a point where it is dripping. or it may be something simple like a rocker cover gasket. as for the vibration under brakes, sounds like it might just be slightly warped rotors and getting them machined shouldn't cost much, especially if you take the rotors off yourself (easy to do). the noise is probably just the wear indicator on the pads indicating that they are getting low (but may well still be legal).

full advanced would make it ping on 98, especially if the ecu has been remapped and the owner doesn't know it. or the spark plugs might be too hot (such as a 5 heat range), or even there is a fuel issue.

unless the CAS has been given a good twist to bump up the timing.

the manual ones are faster than the auto's, and are ok for a NA car. some of the corollas, pulsars, hondas, etc, are cool in their own right, and will do 0-100 times as fast as a skyline, if not faster. you may just have to lose your desire to be a wannabe drifter and start looking outside of imports as there are plenty of reasonably quick NA cars in either the aussie made stuff or fwd 4 cylinder stuff. any of the mid 90's model aussie built stuff in a manual with some minor tweaks will out perform most NA imports in the traffic light grand prix (which is what you seem to care about). although most import owners will go on about how they wasted some commodore or falcon off from the lights. they will just neglect to tell you that it was some granny who had no intention of racing, LOL.

the simple fact is that sony is in the right and most of these "hackers" are in the wrong. sony is a business and businesses are there to make money. and the hackers are just pissy that they can't do things that are illegal and get away with it. it's like people who complain about getting booked for speeding. if they didn't speed they wouldn't get booked.

i think you have to look at it this way, most of the hacking (of consoles at least) is done in order to play games that have been burnt, etc. copying games is illegal so why shouldn't sony be able to sue people who are making this possible? if you created something and people were finding ways to do you out of money you'd be taking legal action against them too. only difference is that these are large companies so no-one feels sorry for them and almost feel as though they have a right to break the law.

according to the r33 workshop manual you only unplug the AAC valve on a GTR. on rb20 and rb25 powered cars you unplug the TPS.

also adding more load to the alternator also robs the engine of power, so getting rid of a clutch fan in favour of thermos doesn't give you that much of a power gain. i used to be able to stall my festiva with my sound system turned right up.

that sounds something like what i did.

i had something similar issue with mine always failing during updates. i ended up jumping on the computer, going into the router settings and having the ps3 excluded from the firewall. i can't remember how to do it (i found out how on some forum i found on google)

do you mean a chip or an aftermarket ecu/remap type of thing. any "chip" that you simply plug in or have soldered in that already has the tune on it is the absolute worst thing you could even think about wasting money on.

ok 2 things, a v8 soarer isn't a fast NA car (a v6 or v8 commodore will be faster). secondly, you can't drive a v8 on your P's.

there is much information about back pressure on the internet, however most of it is incorrect (since they say that back pressure is good on a NA). the simply fact is that you don't want back pressure on any engine. however that doesn't mean you can put a 5" exhaust on and not lose power. with a NA engine you still need an exhaust size that maintains exhaust gas speed. unfortunately you can't have a variable sized exhaust to give you optimum flow at all RPM. you have to pick a size that is going to give you optimum flow at the RPM you are going to be using the most. on a stock car to be used everyday on the road and driven normally the stock size is ideal as it will give the best flow in the lower end of the rev range. a slightly bigger exhaust will move the power a bit further up the rev range, and then a big exhaust will give you more power up top, but at the expense of low down power. if the car is going to be used for race applications then you can get away with a big exhaust as you spend pretty much all your time at high rpm so losing some low end power is of no concern, however if you were to put a 3" exhaust on a skyline that was going to be used on the highway all the time you would find it a bit of a slug (as well as the noise driving you bonkers). back pressure is just a side effect of having an exhaust that provides optimum flow in the lower rpm range. the back pressure doesn't actually occur until higher in the rev range.

if you are maxing the AFM with no boost at 5000rpm then there is 1 of the following things happening: 1: you have a massive leak in the intercooler pipes 2: you have a wiring issue (either a wire is shorting out or someone has played around with the wiring and wired it up incorrectly). what is actually happening when the car is cutting out? is it just misfiring or is it totally cutting out?

IAC and AAC are all in the one unit as far as i remember (2 pieces in the 1 unit), but it has been a few years since i had my 33. unless you are refering to the cold start valve under the plenum.

google. or wikipedia

jacob, what is your coil pack loom like? the wiring in it may be dodgy.

too many parents don't know how to say NO these days, and all the family first types are just a bunch of looney fuckwits who think that rather than turn something off that they don't like they should endure it and then write an angry letter to a crappy newspaper. i'll bet that there are morons out there who would buy an R rated game for their 10 year old kid because they don't want to say no to them, and then have a big cry to the media about the content of the game once they see the kid playing it. i think the media need to grow a pair and tell these f**kwits to get a life. just incase that rant didn't really say what side i'm on (since it was pretty all over the place), i'm in favour of an 18+ R classification on games and think that anyone with any common sense should be as well.

still isn't quite a true comparison as the company may possibly favour one console over the others so put more time/effort/money into that console, or may simply have more knowledge about how to push the limits of 1 console more than the other.

try a lot girly. we stopped next to one at the lights the other day and my missus said that even she wouldn't own one because they are too much of a barbie car. she then proceeded to make remarks questioning the sexuality of the guy driving it (especially since he had the top down). i don't care how good of a car they are, i couldn't own one because of the stereotype that goes with it.

the plugs are different however you may simply be able to cut the wires and put the other plug on it.