mad082

that 20kw was probably a bit of a one off. you will find that the average power gain they see is probably less than that. also there are some tuners out there who will do a tune, then if the power gain isn't that much they then alter a few settings on the dyno to bump up the power figures (and it's not always the ones who are known to be dodgy, plenty of the 'reputable' ones have done it too). not saying that the place you are talking about would do that, just simply saying that expecting 20kw from a tune is a bit much for an NA unless you were putting in a set of cams too, or the stock ecu was throwing a fault code and they fixed that at the same time. as for 20kw damaging the engine, that depends on the tune. a 20kw gain won't damage the motor simply from the extra power, however if they do a safe tune and it only makes 5 or 10kw more and they want to make it a bit better then they may start to add a bit more timing into it or lean it out a bit more and start to make it not so safe. this then reduces the margin of error that the engine has if something happens such as the fuel pump starts to die or an injector gets a bit dirty. this is part of the reason why power can be gained over a stock ecu. they are tuned to be extremely safe to give a large margin of error.

+1. i actually downloaded it a year or 2 ago to start playing it again. was good fun.... or did i download sim city 3000...... i can't remember now. ok just looked it up and it was 3000. it wasn't that much different to 2000.

no you can't simply load the nistune software (or any software for that matter) onto any stock skyline ecu. they require a daughterboard installed into the ecu, but not all of the skyline ecus are compatiable. most places should be able to get you a z32 ecu, install the board and then tune if for around $1000 to $1200. z32 ecu's can be had for pretty cheap these days (under $200). to put this into perspective, most stand alone aftermarket ecus cost quite a bit more than that for just the ecu without any tuning done (and the lower end aftermarket ecus such as the pfc won't give you any real advantages of difference in performance over the nistune). also for a NA i wouldn't expect a 20kw gain in power from a tune. i'd expect more like 10kw. 20kw is more what you'd gain from a tune on a turbo skyline.

try an electronics shop that sells sony gear (like playstations, etc). they may possibly be able to order you the genuine item, or a 3rd party version. or after a quick look on ebay, i'd try there first. plenty there, especially if you have the slim version of the ps2.

$250? where from? genuine? i bought one from autobarn for $120 for an NGK one.

Has anyone done any of the seasonal 4 races that came out today? They are super easy like round 3. the highspeed ring one in the jtcc cars was a piece of piss. was in the lead by the first corner of lap 4 (8 lap race), won by ages. was doing sub 1 minute laps wit a best of 58.112. i was using the woodone gtr like what is posted above, tuned up to 701hp

correct. generally it will be out be a percentage, not a set amount (just like the speedo will be). if the tacho is out by 10% then at idle it will be out by less than 100rpm, but at redline it would be out by nearly 1000rpm. it will be accurate, as long as it's setup correctly, LOL.

i am pretty sure that what moodles said is correct. it's only for the fan.

andrew is correct. unless you have an aftermarket turbo and are making over 250kw then you have absolutely no reason to waste money on a z32 afm. judging by the fact that you still have the stock ecu means that you aren't making that much power. to run the z32 you need either an aftermarket ecu, a remap or some sort of piggyback system that allows you to change the AFM settings.

yes there is a big difference between boosting it everywhere and taking it sensibly. for this reason everyone will get different fuel economy. what some people class as taking it calmy will still be classed as giving it the beans by others. the condition the engine is in (including the cooling system), the distance you drive, the terrain you drive, whether you do some highway/freeway driving, as well as how often you stop and start will all have an affect on your fuel economy. boost levels also make a difference. the lower the boost the less fuel you will use. in my 33 gts-t i used to see about 16 to 17l/100kms, but then i used to do relatively short trips with a lot of stop/starting, and i used to give it the beans a fair bit. on the highway though i would see economy down around 10L/100kms. what are you currently driving? if it is an aussie 6 then expect to use a similar amount of fuel for similar driving styles. if it is a 4 cylinder then you will see worse economy. also remember that the skyline needs to be run on premium unleaded, so if you aren't willing to spend the extra money on premium unleaded for your current cars fuel economy then you might want to reconsider a skyline.

you want the engine to last but you are talking about doing launches in first gear from the limiter? doesn't make sense to me. the rev limiter is probably set at about 7500rpm, but it's probably that your tacho is inaccurate (remember that they are old cars now). a mates 32 tacho read well over 500rpm out at redline compared to the PFC reading.

you'd want to run wider tyres than that though. unless you want the stupid stretched look then you will want at least 235's on the front and 245's on the rear, and even then they will still look like they are a little stretched.

if the coils are arcing out though, changing the plugs won't do much.

how did you mount the 040 on the stock bracket? i'm not familiar with the GTR setup, but i know that some people with r33's made a bit of an error when mounting an 040 on the stock bracket. they made the pump sit in pretty much the same place as the original pump without taking into consideration the fact that the stock pump has the hose and sock come out of the bottom of it, therefor it will be lower in the tank and then they end up with fuel starvation issues once the tank gets lower. when i mounted an 040 in a mates 33 i mounted it in such a way that the bottom of the pump sat as low as the stock pump. he was then able to drive with the fuel level low enough to get the fuel light to come on.

look at something like a nistune or pfc or a piggyback system such as a safc or emanage. there is no off the shelf 'chips' that will give you any performance gain (at least none worth talking about).

the stock plenum was designed to be side facing. adapting it to be front facing will deliver uneven airflow to the cylinders. this will eventually destroy the motor due to the fact that the front few cylinders will run rich while the rear cylinders will lean right out (but overall AFR will still be the same so you won't know that it's happening unless you inspect your plugs regularly as well as measure the AFR of each cylinder individually).

if it's about 10mm thick then it is probably one of those plastic spacers people put on in the hope of gaining extra power from dropping the amount of heat transfer to the plenum. makes sweet fuck all difference though

simply removing the fuel cap will depressure the line enough. the amount of fuel that will come out when you pull the line off is minimal.

yeah as above, do whatever comes first. oil does go off over time, so if you drive less then 5000kms in 6 months then change your oil every 6 months.

could be the fluid in the line as stated above or could be something like a damaged clutch fork or pivot bolt. try checking the fluid first.

i'm not sure how much that sensor actually does. i'm pretty sure the ecu uses the 2 wire sensor in the top radiator hose for the engine temp levels. as for what effect the temp sensor can have (this is in general, not specific to the sensor you are talking about), the ecu alters both the fuel settings and ignition settings when the engine is cold. when the engine is cold it adds in more fuel. i'm not sure whether it advances or retards the timing. this will result in more fuel being used when driving as well as possibly making the car harder to start when warm (may not be noticably different though).

what series is your car? if it is series 1 then it could be the ignitor pack

go either 6's or 7's. 5's will be way too hot for 280kw. at the rate you are changing them, just get copper plugs and save yourself a lot of money.

if you go to you local auto parts store they should be able to order you one for an r33 if they deal with NGK stuff. if they say that they can't get you one (if they look in the book and can't find the part number tell them to get a catalogue from some time in the last 5 years), then simply ask them for an o2 sensor for a N15 SSS pulsar. the part number is the same as the r33 gts-t one.

yeah that is a genuine issue, and from memory it is usually a certain side too. VL's had the issue of one side being less bright than the other.