mad082

sounds like it is a dodgy contact in the stalk. you could either try pulling the stalk apart, or just trying to find a new one from someone wrecking a car

sounds like the fuel pump is ok. the turning it over, etc may have fouled your plugs. try a new set of plugs and see what happens. doesn't explain the sudden cutting out, but may explain the running rough. if it still runs like arse with the new plugs then i would start looking closer at AFM and injectors and possibly coils and ignitor.

Liger, i'm still saving up to buy a car to use in that race. still got 1.5 mill to go before i can afford one. Has anyone had a go at the second round of seasonal events? i've had a go at 2 and have been smashed both times, finishing about 20 seconds behind in 1 and 40 behind in the other. they must hve decided to make these ones much harder that the last lot which i was able to win all of

My B spec driver is at level 14. from about level 13 on they can be trusted with a high powered RWD car and won't loop it at every sharp corner when they are in the red zone

Just finished al of the seasonal races with gold. having a go at the time trial now

I just did the honda cr-z sesonal event. It's sooooo easy. was in the lead by the end of lap 3 (of 5)

pretty sure someone in this thread bought one. personally i wouldn't waste the money, especially just because it has HKS on it. just get a white-out pen and write HKS on your controller.

ask any import owner to prove the kms are legit and 99% of them won't be able to. all they can tell you is what they bought the car with. doesn't answer whether the kms the car was imported with were legit though.

check you connected all the hoses and wires/plugs back up properly.

nah it says that have the bently speed 6 rear end in it, reversed. so they probably have the diff (or at least the internals) in upside down to get it to run the other way. and yeah, it says in the story that it has 24 exhaust pipes. second line of the second paragraph.

top speed is quoted at 168mph. very low revs and high weight would slow it down a bit. i really don't think the torque would be too much of an issue though. sure it only has small tyres, but heavy weight over small tyres can actually increase the grip. plus i doubt the engines are that responsive. if you were to simply stop the accelerator i doubt it would simply fry the tyres like on a modern high powered car. also the gearing would be pretty tall (once you take into account tyre size).

+1 you obviously don't deserve to have a licence or be behind the wheel of a car. people like you are the reason skyline owners get targetted by the police.

could be 1 of many reasons. could've had front end damage, could've blown an end tank or had a seal let go, could've had some shitty water used in it and become slightly blocked, or the owner could be the type of person who likes wank factor stuff and thought he would gain power from a better radiator.

it will fit any skyline.

only bad pinging is audible. a lot of the time the car might be pinging and you won't hear it. on a stock ecu though, if the knock sensors are working properly it should retard the timing a bit to reduce pinging. the stock clutch fans, when working properly, are the best option to use. they draw much more air than most thermo fans. there are plenty of high HP cars that still run them. people seem to think that thermos don't draw any power from the motor, but then add resistance to the alternator, which is run by the engine, so they still do drain a bit of power. if you do decide to run a thermo setup then my advice is to use the setup off a car that has them from factory, such as late model falcons, or fwd cars. these are often much more powerful than aftermarket ones, and the fact that they come with ready made shrouds you know that they are going to do the job well.

yeah the best option is to limit the mods you do to the NA (or only do mods that are removable), and then once you can drive a turbo just go out and buy a GT-T. you will save yourself a few thousand dollars buying a factory turbo as you would be able to sell your GT for similar money to what a GT-T costs, and it saves you all the time and money of doing a conversion. plus depending on what spec your NA is, you may get things like better brakes, LSD and stronger gearbox, which if you were to upgrade all of them on the NA, plus the cost of doing the turbo upgrade, you'd be getting close to the price of keeping your NA and buying a GT-T as well.

not if they have a thermostat. also it depends on whether the box is modified or not. things like a higher stall converter would raise temps, as well as just putting decent power through the box would too. or if they tow with the car then you need one. when dad got a towbar put on his subaru outback the towbar came with a trans cooler

you taking it to gary to get tuned? ahahaha, yeah injectors are a pain to change, especially if you don't remove the plenum (found that one out the hard way). yeah the rain is a bit of a pain at the moment. if this rain that is predicted over the next few days actually does happen then you may find you aren't able to get here, as well as gary's workshop having a few feet of the river in it, LOL. very high chance of it flooding if we get a few days of decent rain.

i didn't even use the v-spec. i just used the normal one and saved myself 100k, LOL as for the fiat, i too have only got silver. my last attempt i was 2 seconds behind. the big thing i found is that after driving plenty of fast cars, with the fiat you have to remember that you are going much slower, so you ease off the brakes a bit sooner otherwise you wash off too much speed. also on the last corner you can hold it flat the whole way round, however this causes you to run a bit wide, so if you lift off a bit and get a straighter line, and if you are using an auto it should drop back to 4th which will give you better acceleration. if you hold it flat you end up going the same speed at the end of the corner but you are still in 5th and don't accelerate as fast. also draft down the back straight as mush as possible.

Have you reduced the weight of it? but as i said, in my r34 n1 i could only get 1.31's so i hd to use an r35. From memory i didn't change the oil because that would've put me over the power limit so i just put a basic air filter on it and that took it to exactly 493. i also had aero mods on it too

you'd be pitting to refuel after each lap, lol

all the old land speed record holders had massive engines. i know one was 18L and i think another was 22L, and they were only putting out much less than 1000hp. there was the sunbeam that was the 18L one. it was a v12 putting out about 350hp. that's the main one i remember. i also remember seeing something on a show years and years ago about some sports car in the 20's i think it was that was had a supercharger that used to kick in like a turbo and because the tyres were so skinny and crappy it would about spin the car around because it nearly doubled the power in a very short period of time. it kicked in at somewhat high rpm so you were travelling at speed when it kicked in. i also have somewhere some info on an old bugatti or bentley (can't remember which but it started with B and was from the early 1900's) and it had a straight 16 engine.

i think a lot of it comes down to the condition of the flywheel as well. a car that has had a slipping clutch for a while probably also has a rooted flywheel, and if you put a new clutch in it and don't replace the flywheel then there will be a limit to how much power it will handle before it slips.

it's safe to drive the car with that turbo provided you run low boost and don't floor it too much. tune wise on the stock ecu it will be safe but it would just be getting close to hitting the airflow protection, which would just making it annoying to drive. if you already have an aftermarket ecu with a tune on it then the same would apply (low boost and don't give it the beans much) but you lose the added safety of built in overboost protection. but to simply bolt the turbo on and drive to the tuner would be fine as long as you take it easy.

+1. i did the first ps3 update via usb (as i didn't have wifi at home at the time), but you can't do game updates via usb, which sucks. took me a few hours to get it to update last night. kept getting an error halfway through (had it happen probably 10 times). had to alter the router settings, and then it only took 15 mins to download. those extra races are awesome. i did the GTR one. had to use an r35 gtr to win it. my r34 n1 wasn't fast enough (despite it being lighter than the r35 and having the same power). but you win 1 million dollars (which i wasted a lot of buying a car to use which then turned out to be not allowed to enter the race with) and 100,000 experience points. to win it you need to do 1:29's on your first lap and 1:27's on the next 5 laps and you should get into first 3/4 of the way round the final lap. i was only getting 1:30's and 1:31's on flying laps in my 34. first attempt with the r35 was in the 1:28's i also did the fiat one and only managed second on it, but will have another go tonight. bought my honda cr-z to use in the second race as well.