mad082

alarms are often the culprit for battery drain.

it will more than likely be your coil packs. they may be fine at high load, etc and not have a miss at all, but often as they get older you can get the slightest little miss at idle.

mate of mine was driving along in his 33 and had a tie rod come out of the tie rod end. we put it back in and it came out a short while later. he had never hit a gutter since he had had the car (a few years). the rod had just come a little bit loose and then once it had undone a bit and was about half out it just stripped the thread when he hit a bump in the road.

not sure what exact part of the new speedo you like, but 1 option may be to simply change the speedo part of the cluster to put your current cars speedo and odometer into the cluster you like the look of more. this way you still have the legitimate kms

no i haven't got golds on the seb loeb rally challenge. i got all bronze and really CBF'd trying them again. the rally events in general in GT5 haven't really sparked my interest so i am simply doing them to pass them to get them out of the way. if i happen to get gold first time (which i have so far in the GT rally events) then good, if i only get bronze or silver then meh, at least i passed. i actually prefer the B spec to some of the rally events. just wish my drivers would realise that if they are in a lambo LP640 and the car in front is a little hatch back and they are faster than it, that by using the big round thing on the dash in front of them they can go around the car in front.

either put the stock intake pipe back on or get the stainless pipe altered so you can run the stock bov. even with an aftermarket ecu you are still going to have slight issues with it stalling.

if you listen extemely carefully you should just hear it. it may sound more like a hissing noise than what you are used to hearing from the 040.

try asking in the SA section of the forum

i had it in my used car lot yesterday. can't remember how much it was, but it was under 1 million. think it was around $800,000. I had another go at the level 15 rally last night.first time i was in an evo 10 and was getting smashed. bought myself a corolla rally car for $250,000 and hd no problems winning. in the snow race i won by just under 2 mins. i was over taking the 2 cars in front and in 1 stage i was right behind the 1st car. tat stage i won by 32 seconds.

that's pretty much stock power for a 33. your clutch failed cause it was fucked and worn out, not because you were making too much power. exactly. when you are making too much power for a clutch you will floor it and the revs will rise but speed won't (as if you are riding the clutch). sounds like the OP just isn't that smooth at changing gears, or at least with how quick he releases the clutch.

umm, just curious of the point of making a thread about this?

does the check engine light come on when the problem is occuring? it does sound quite like a coil pack issue. might be worth seeing if you can find a member on here in your area who has a consult cable and is kind enough to let you borrow it to check the fault codes on the ecu.

well at least it's good the seller is taking responsibilty for the error and is willing to rectify the problem, and is smart enough to see that making sure the design is good will help with future sales. there is plenty of people who wouldn't do that.

i don't think it is just the "it's cheap so it must be crap" mentality in here. in this case, at least for me, it's more "it's cheaper than buying something made buy a company that makes these thing professionally and could have just been knocked up at some random workshop by a guy who has a bit of spare time and thought he could make a bit of money out of it because he once made one for a customer who didn't want to pay to buy a professionally made one."

it comes down to what the ecu is expecting the injectors to be. if it is a natro ecu then it will start on the natro injectors, but i highly doubt it will on the GTR injectors, and if it does, it won't idle for long before it stalls since rb20e injectors are only 185cc from the info i can find, so with the GTR injectors it would be putting in well over twice the fuel. ECU's don't automatically know how big injectors are, so if you put in bigger injectors it will put in more fuel. if you want to use the GTR injectors straight away then you will need some form of aftermarket ecu (whether it be a piggyback, remapped ecu or aftermarket such as a PFC, etc) that allows you to alter the injector size. that said, if it is a turbo ecu and NA injectors then it won't start that well, however probably still better than with the GTR injectors.

technically speaking a car can't be complianced with aftermarket mods (has to be returned to stock), and any aftermarket parts aren't allowed to be reinstalled after the compliance. don't think they are allowed to even sell them (although a lot do). i could be wrong though.

does it currently have any gas in the system? i know a guy who does aircon work and if he can't find into on the system and it isn't working because of being low on gas then he weighs the amount of gas that he sucks out of the system then uses an educated guess as to how much to put back in. i think the fact that a lot of systems use similar amounts makes it a bit easier.

you could just get the roof redone (if that is the only place that needs it) and that should be under $1000

yeah i'm too lazy (and disorganised) to race in online races like that one

nah the zonda would be his proper drift car, the f430 would be his practice car

is the VL natro or turbo? if natro it should be fine. if it's turbo, as long as the rb20 box is from a turbo rb20 then it should be fine also. even if the box is from a natro rb20 it will more than likely be fine as well.

just jap have the N1 pump for $380. they also have the stock rb25 pump for $175. what sort of use is the car going to see? if it is going to be purely for track, etc then go the N1, if it is going to see regular street use then i would be going the stock rb25 pump. the N1 is designed for higher rpm use, so at lower rpm it doesn't flow as much (at least that is my understanding). just take note that a lot of people have had issues with non-genuine pumps in the past and have ended up putting genuine pumps on afterwards. in fact a lot of people have had more success with rb30 pumps than non-genuine. if money is tight then definately go the genuine rb25 pump over a non-genuine N1 unit.

well it was just you, but i'm sure i will now. i actually like the go-kart challenge. it's a bit of a pain that there's no go-kart races in the A-spec section.

not much. r32 gts-t (and r33 gts-t for that matter) aren't worth much these days. i wouldn't pay much more than about $6000 for it if it has faded paint and missing bits of the aircon.

i'm not familiar with the protex stuff, but my advice would be to stick with the genuine nissan pump. they are reliable and work well. the water pump only plays a small part in engine cooling. a bigger difference will be made by the quality of the radiator.