mad082

it may have something to do with when the engine conversion was done. if they also changed the gearbox and then used the wrong speedo sender then it will alter the reading. is the reading always out by the same %? so when you are actually doing 100 and it reads 45, if you slow down to 50 does it read about 20 to 25? if yes, then look at getting the speedo sensor from an rb25 gearbox and see if that changes things. a mate of mine just went through all this when putting a rb20 box into a r33, however he had the opposite problem, it was reading twice the speed.

since i've had the game i hadn't been on gtplanet for a few days, but just thought i'd go for a look to see if there was any interesting news and i came across this: also there is a new wheel coming out.

yeah stock boost is up around 9 or 10psi.

you will care if you get pulled over and booked for having an illegal engine modification. i'm not saying that you should go rushing out to put the rb20E back into it, just be aware that you do run the risk of being fined. my advice is don't spend a cent trying to make it go faster, or even really to make it look better. it isn't worth it, especially if you are only going to sell it in a few years. you would be better off putting the money towards your next car. if you were to do anything i would suggest putting a stock rb25DE in there. will be no more illegal than what you currently have in there, and will probably be the best bang for your buck mod you could do. since you could then sell the current motor that is in there and get a lot of your money back (since i don't think you would need much more than the motor itself and an ecu. should nearly be able to run it off the existing wiring loom)

don't go to a mechanic or an import specialist as neither will be able to help you. you need to go see a locksmith (not just someone who cuts keys but a proper locksmith). any half decent locksmith should be able to source you a new ignition barrel, and a good one should be able to source you one that uses the standard key.

yep sounds like it, although if you know someone with a jump pack, or a set of jumper leads even, try starting the car with additional battery power. if it is still sluggish to turn over then it's the starter not the battery.

option 3. just putt about in the car, leaving it as stock as possible (so don't spend a cent on it), and save all your money to buy something better once on your opens. or find some other P plater skyline fan and sell it to them and buy either a better skyline or a commodore/falcon if you want something faster.

i got a silver. i was in second place. 1st place was about 4 car lengths in front of me

i got that on the very first go-kart race, LOL. exactly. last night i had a go at the seb loeb rally. fook me it's hard. on the snow i'm about 7 seconds off even getting a bornze, so i gave up and went to the used cars to see what was for sale. there was an amuse carbon R (the carbon fibre GTR) but i needed to be level 17 to get it and i was a few hundred points short so i went and did a few easy races to get the points. i was using a s/c shelby cobra that i had bought a few days ago second hand. first race i had the TC on and it was still sliding out a bit. then i turned it off. my god the handling is so much better than GT% prologue and any of the previous games. power oversteer is awesome!!!! it only had sports hard tyres, so it stepped out EVERYWHERE (since it has 468hp and shit tyres, LOL). i could go into the last corner of tsukuba, get the back out a little under brakes and then feed on the power and have it hanging the tail out the whole way round the corner and then have it crossed up the other way over the start/finish line, and i'm only using a controller. it's so much more realistic in how they handle. i did a few more races on other tracks (was only racing lancers, etc so i could dick around and still win easily), and it was great. on the big sweeping corners of tokyo r246 i could hang it out the whole way round the corners (was just power oversteer sort of angle, not fully drift angle with complete opposite look, but it was hanging it out none the less). in the bay area of monaco (or cote d'zur or however it's spelt) i could link corners through the tight left/right/left section before the last hairpin. my opinion of the game has skyrocketted after that (already thought the game was good). it was so much fun!

you should see the clutch fork sitting on that bolt. that bolt has a mushroom shaped head on it and the clutch fork pivots on that. you need to lube up the top of the pivot bolt. you just have to spray a heap of lube onto the area and then continuously push on the clutch to work it into where it needs to be

get a nice big breaker bar on it and then give sudden pulls on the bar, don't just gently apply pressure as they will turn the whole thing. if you are jerky in your movement you will have more chance in 'cracking' it and getting it undone.

comes down to how long it was sitting at the shop for before you bought it though. if you drive your car and then turn it off and try to start it straight away will the car turn over? if yes, then your battery is losing charge when the car is turned off. this may be due to it beaing dead, it may be due to a current draw from something such as an alarm system. it may possibly be due to your starter motor being a bit sticky and not spinning as freely as it should, or even the alternator not quite charging like it should. my suggestion would be to check the current draw on the battery when the car is off, unless of course you answered no to the question above and it won't turn over even immediately after the car has been running for a while.

no, R&R doesn't stay the whole way through the rev range, it only stays like that for where the ecu is seeing too much airflow and throwing a tantrum. generally it will always come good in the upper rpm.

just double check that colour of the wires of the plug match the colour of the wires of the plug on the tps, since both it and the plug underneath send wires off in the same direction.

just pointing out to people that it isn't me talking about a magna, LOL

with a buttload of work yes, such as converting it to rwd, or getting a custom made bellhousing made to get a gearbox to fit.

as birds said, it will be pretty straight forward. you are using the same motor each way so all the plugs, etc should be the same. just unplug everything (label them if you are worried about forgetting what goes where), then drop the motor and bolt it into the other one. you won't need to go swapping ecu harnesses or anything like that. also as birds said, it is easier to leave the gearbox attached. not sure on these motors but i know some fwd motors you have to actually take the gearbox apart to remove it. they don't just pull off in 1 piece like a rwd gearbox does. if your car has air con then unbolt the compressor from the motor and try to tuck it to the side as far out of the way as possible to save you having to remove it and have to get the system regassed.

shouldn't need much more than getting a few power runs done. you have stock ecu don't you? if so then they can't alter the AFR's to see what sort of headroom you have above what it is running. you could also try bumping the boost up a bit from what you have it at, as it will be using a bit more fuel that way so if it is fine on the higher boost then it will be fine on what you are running.

i could be wrong but i think that cutting the speed sensor wire to the ecu isn't 100% without side effects. i'm not sure about the skylines, but i think some cars have slight mapping tweaks for different speeds. i'm honestly not sure though. i just remember hearing a tuner talking to someone about speed load settings. i could be imagining things tho.

the sitting at 3krpm isn't an issue. pretty much every 4 cylinder will sit at that sort of rpm at 100km/h. as for being off boost, yeah that cuts the fuel down a bit, however you are at the sort of rpm that you will very quickly be into positive boost on hills or just speed up a bit, so you can very quickly start drinking the fuel if you aren't very smooth with your throttle application. just grab a multimeter and check your o2 sensor is working, otherwise your fuel economy will really suck.

in your case with the rb20E (the rb20 that came standard in the r33 is a single cam, not like a twin cam like in the r32, unless yours has had an engine swap), the power to weight would be pretty shocking. a lancer would be faster (as it would have similar power and less weight). the following figures are approximate figures rb20e r33 = 75kw/ton rb25de r33 = 115kw/ton rb20de r33 (if it has had an engine swap) = 90kw/ton as for what to do to get more power, well there isn't much worth doing if your car has a rb20 in it. you'd be best of selling it and getting a rb25 powered one. even with mods your car will still be slower than a dead stock rb25 powered one

yes a silencer will cause restriction and a loss of power. you could get a custom silencer made up with a bigger pipe through the centre to allow more flow but it won't make the exhaust as quiet. the other option would be to scrap the cannon and get an oval muffler. they generally provide much better sound attenuation.

yeah range 6 copper plugs should be fine. if they were 7's or 8's (colder plugs) then they would be more prone to fouling when cold.

you may find that it starts to ping up in the rev range as it will be leaning out. only way to tell for sure though is to put it on the dyno. a dying fuel pump will generally have ok AFR's down low but the further up the rev range you get the leaner it gets because the pump will be maxing out and can't flow any more fuel. if the AFR stays the same all the way through the rev range, or gets richer up top then the pump is ok.

4th mark is 15 degrees. as qwk32 said (and i meant to say), the 5th mark is 20 degrees, 4th mark is only 15 degrees, so your timing is correct as it is at the 4th mark which is 15 degrees and the consult is showing 15 degrees. yeah my bad, can't count, LOL (had the workshop manual open and all, LOL)