mad082

If you simple want to pass then just take your time and simply overtake under brakes. remember you have 2 laps to do it. don't try and overtake everyone in the first lap

apparently as a couple they are worth $162 million. i think that usually goes off assets rather than actual income, so even if only a fraction of that was invested they would be seeing a rather large income from their investments without even including record deals, movies, etc.

i did the final top gear challenge last night. took me about 10 attempts to finally complete 2 laps. the first time i got DQ'd at (i think) the follow through (right hand corner before the tyres and back straight). i ran over the painted lines (going so slow you don't even think about it because the faster cars understeer a bit as you turn in so you are ok). second attempt i got to the first corner on the second lap and got taken out by one of the cars coming the other way and DQ'd (since there is a group of cars that is lapping half a lap ahead). 1 or 2 other attempts i made the same mistake at the follow through. i think one i cut the corner on the start straight a little bit (may have even been overtaking a car and got rammed off, can't remember). but finally i managed to complete 2 laps without being DQ'd to complete the event. got gold (extremely easy to do). even silver is easy. i was into 3rd place after the first lap. 2nd by halfway through the 2nd lap and into first at the end of the back straight. you have bronze after about chicago on the first lap though. the car in 7th gets taken out on the first corner, then on the braking into the chase you can getinto 6th and the car in 5th gets taken out, or runs wide into chicago as well, so by the time you get to the hammer head you have the bronze.

they are more than rich enough to afford a veyron. they could buy one a year and still have a few million each left over.

also came across this last night http://www.gtplanet.net/gt5-easter-egg-r34-skyline-has-die-cast-underside/ also with the latest v1.03 update it appears as though you can set mechanical damage for online races. i downloaded it last night but don't play online so i haven't seen anything different. http://www.gtplanet.net/gran-turismo-5-v1-03-update-now-available/

i have my tv, etc on top of a chest of drawers so it's not enclosed at all. i also have a clothes peg under each corner of it as well so it is lifted off the surface. it runs dead silent, other than a bit of a click/crack every now and then when it's just been turned on or off. it's a 250gb console.

ok i'll answer this in a few parts. 1: the aircon to be missing due to a FMIC install sounds a bit dodgy. if it has been removed then it comes down to how much of it has been removed as to how much it costs to get it replace. could be a few hundred dollars, could be much more. 2: as for paint fading on the roof, it is only a matter of time before the clear coat lifts. the damage has already been done. you may be able to make it take a bit longer for it to happen, but i don't think by too much. that said, it may be years before the clear actually lifts. 3: it is pretty common for the gearbox to have a bit of a clunk between first and second. r32's are old cars now (around 20 years old now), and the second gear synchro is the one that gets the most wear since it is used everytime you take off, and when people floor it off from the lights, etc, it is the one that then gets all the abuse since it is being changed under very high load. the cost of getting it replaced would be more than it's worth.

ok so i rang my tuner mate to ask him. he said that as far as he is aware the stock ecu has 3 maps. there is the idle map, a transition map and the full map. the idle map is what is used when the car is in neutral. when you put it into gear the car registers that it's in gear via the neutral switch in the gearbox (this is why autos than have been converted to manual can make less power than a proper manual since they make the computer think it's in neutral all the time - since the autos will only start in park or neutral - so are stuck on the idle map). the transition map is similar to the full map but not as much timing as well as a few other things different. the full map is activated by the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). the old memory is getting a little bit fuzzy at this point, but i'm pretty sure i have this the right way round. the full map also has things like your closed loop o2 sensor feedback as well as fuel cut on deceleration. to sum that up a bit, my mate said that power wise it will be stuff all difference in power between the transition map and the full map, but he also said to stop being a tight-arse and do it properly, LOL. he said to either go a VSM, speed cut defender or the best option is to go an aftermarket ecu, even if it's only a nistune.

no, a GTR is a de-tuned touring car. a gts-t is a family car version of said de-tuned touring car. they are no more a detuned touring car than an xr6t. the non GTR are just a sports family saloon. they are less of a the S series and Z series cars are more sports cars than a non GTR skyline. a vectra VXR isn't a family car either, it is a sports hatch, in fact the VXR is the sports hatch version of a normal hatch. they are simply GM's answer to the focus. anyone who buys a vectra as a family car is stupid.

very general conversion is flywheel KW = rear wheel HP. a guy i know had a stock BA xr6t (one of the 240kw ones), it made 248rwhp (185kw). with the addition of a generic flashtune (minor tune to raise the boost, but the car was never put on the dyno, the tune was just a generic tune that the place he bought the flash tune off put on there before sending it out to him) and the boost raised to 9 and 11psi it made 300hp (224kw). not sure what boost setting that was on though.

the patrol in that vid was definately doing well over 200. would have to be around 300kmh+. just look at the distance it is covering in a matter of a second or 2, remembering that at 100kmh you travel approximately 100m every 4 seconds.

before i posted up before i went looking at the imperial sizes that they do and it seems to jump from 3/8" to 7/16" (so just under 10mm to 11.1), so he'd be best of keeping it metric and going an 11mm as it will be easier to get in, hwever i think that even 11mm may be too big. really want a 10.5mm another tip i've found to be useful is if the allen key is a little bit rounded, cut a bit off the end so you are using a section with nice sharp edges. you can also get a paste that has some grit in it to help it grab. there's one product called screw grab, and another called regrip (the brand of that is recoil, the same company that makes helicoils, etc). i don't know if any automotive shops will sell them, but i would assuming engineering/specialist tools and fasteners shops would.

have you though about modifying it to fit better? or you could do the smart thing and instead of whinging about it on here, contact the seller and tell him you aren't happy with it, and it doesn't line up, etc, and either get a refund or a replacement for one that does what it's supposed to. send him pics. this is the reason i don't buy much stuff over the net. i like to be able to look at it first so that if it is shit i don't buy it to start with.

yeah the aerodynamics of them would slow them down a bit. i think they could still top 300kmh though (with 1500hp that is).

all r33 gts-t have a push type (at least all the ones i've done clutch work on, one of which was my series 1.5). i think it's only the GTR that has a pull type

just went into the tutorial/DIY/FAQ section. the links in the sticky threads don't work. they simply take you to the main forum page. not sure whether this was an issue before the change or not though.

well if it is actually a 94 model then it is definately a series 2. the series goes of what year it was made, and series 2 came were from about august 1991 onwards. get the VIN number and post it in the FAST thread and people will be able to look up and verify that it is in fact a 94 model.

i used scratch-X on mine with the buffing pad and it worked fine without sanding, however i had a bit scratch in 1 light so i ended up sanding them as well. came up a touch better. as for how long they stayed clear, quite a while, but i used to just give them a quick polish everytime i polished the car (about once a year)

thanks for that. don't know if i like that look of that one though. i realise there is lots to choose from, but i think i prefer the looks of the standard one over that one. yeah it is pretty good. i've been on other forums that have a better system though. some other forums if you just move the mouse over the thread title after a second or so it will bring up a preview of the first post. this can be done on threads you have read, unlike here where it only does it for threads with unread posts. gets a bit annoying when i come back to here after being on the other forum for a while because i then try to get the preview here and it does nothing, lol. pretty sure the other forums are using a different program though. they aren't IP. boards.

how quickly do you need it? if you need it in a hurry then use a rb30 one and simply cut off the rear 2 cylinders and turn them round. either an exhaust shop or somewhere like repco would more than likely have one (will also cost much less than a proper rb25 one). if you don't need it in such a hurry then you could order one online from just jap. could be worth also asking at the exhaust shop or repco if they could order one and how long it might take. both my local repco and exhaust shop can have stuff there the following day, but that is because i'm only 2 hours from brissy.

flash tune and increase the boost a bit.

$59 for the flange is pretty cheap from the prices i've seen. also have you sat it against a stock flange to see how different it is? could be that the stock manifold flange isn't much better.

you don't really even need to change the exhaust.

what was the price like though? was it cheap for what it is? if yes, then that explains it. also was there any chance you had it upside down or back the front that may have caused things not to line up properly?