mad082

it has been mentioned in this thread a few times. only takes a few seconds to download the cars and the bonus XMB as they are only 100kb each car and XMB.

yep your alternator is shagged. should be charging at around 14V when the car is running. would be best to get that sorted as soon as possible to prevent any more damage to the battery

yeah man. under $500. i got a quote to get the whole side of a car painted (4 panels) with bumpers. was about $1200, and that was metallic paint (very similar colour to bayside blue actually). the paint aspect of it is cheap since most panel shops mix it up there and will only mix up what they need. also most places won't sand it back bare since they are painting it the same colour, so the prep time isn't going to be huge. as for being under $1500 them giving you cash, it depends on whether they have insurance or not. if they do then they will only have to pay their excess, which they will pay to their insurance company and you won't have to pay your excess but you will have to put in a claim with your insurance company and you won't actually physically see any money from the other people as it will all be done through the insurance companies. you will just drop your car off to the panel beater and pick it up when it's done.

13.8v is fine and nothing to worry about, especially at idle as they will put out a touch more voltage at higher revs (at idle they are spinning below optimum speed). generally when they die they will drop down to well below 13.8V, or if the voltage regulator goes they will jump up to around 18v and start blowing lights, fuses, etc

you'd be paying more than a "bit extra" to do the whole car. first thing is, did you get the details of the person who hit your car? if not then don't bother going through insurance. the cost to respray a bar by itself should be under $500 and they should be able to do it on the car. secondly, have you tried cut and polish on it to see how much of the mark is actually paint from the other car? you may find that it is much less noticable afterwards.

+1 for another happy customer. all in all the install took about 50 mins including the 4 mins to download the update. in the 2 hours i played it i did the A and B licence (went back and got minimum of silver for each test in the B licenec), as well as the go-kart and nascar challenges (the first level of each), as well as downloading my chromeline cars.

Installing it as i type this. been going for 27 mins. originally said 20 mins to go, just dropped from 9 mins to go down to 7 mins and then down to 5 while typing this. also did the 133mb update before it started installing. that took 4 mins (telstra adsl2). now been going for 29 mins

a tool worth trying would be a stilson. plumbers use them. as you push on the handle it tightens the grip of it. they are a bit bulky though so you need a bit of room around the bolt/nut in question. i have found them handy in the past. stilson:

i do agree with the fact that they did put a bit too much time into making the game look as pretty as possible for the premium cars. time that could've been spent on other things.

as above. you can't do any damage as you can't actually change any settings on the ecu. some programs will allow you to minorly adjust the timing, etc for diagnostic tests, however the moment you shut down the program it goes back to stock.

and who needs central locking when you can have a padlock on the door?

a lot of reviews seem to almost be nitpicking at things to find faults because it is finally out. yeah i too drive on bumper cam. tried the cockpit view but the drive constantly taking his hand off the wheel to change gears even if you didn't end up needing to just shit me. plus the fact that the amount of steering wheel movement was totally unrealistic was also annoying. i'm also just expecting it to be an upgraded version of GT5 prologue. i'm not expecting it to be some totally different game with totally different handling, etc. actually it was much less than 5 or 6 years work. it was more like 3 years work. they scrapped a lot of the stuff they used in GT5 prologue. people just seem to think that the moment they put out GT4 they started on GT5. the PS3 console didn't even come out until 2006/2007, and was only a prototype in 2005, so you can't count that as being production time.

but then look at the scores they gave ti. overall they gave it 8.5/10. gameplay they gave it a 9.

yeah. i put one on a mates 33 and made 250kw at 15psi with an average tune and the motor was a bit sad.

the only real reason for doing negative first is so that if you happen to touch the body or the motor with the spanner when undoing the positive then it won't spark, resulting in possibile blown fuses, etc.

i prefer the looks of the BA/BF utes, but i'd probably go the FG since it is new

n15 SSS or v6 magna with a catback *wanders off giggling

pretty sure the HKS controller was mentioned in this thread a few pages back (probably 5 or 10)

Shops that sell it early run the risk of being fined. thats's why very few do it. used to be done much more in the past, but these days you get people showing off like above posting pics of the game with the reciept, which usually has the store details which gives sony all the info they need.

possibly, but rb25's (and i think 20's as well) don't have an air temp sensor. it all goes off the coolant.

actually, when disconnecting the battery you should do negative first, then positive. when reconnecting you should do the positive first and then the negative. this means that if you happen to touch the spanner to the body while removing the positive you won't cause any problems as the car is no longer earthed.

most ecu's add more fuel when cold, as well as possibly adding more timing, so when at full throttle you will use more fuel, and when cruising you may simply use the same amount of fuel. all in all though, you would normally see worse fuel economy with something like this. i've had cars with dodgy thermostats making the car run cooler and fuel economy was better once the thermostat was replaced.

just rang the shop i'm getting it from to find out if they have it yet so i can pick it up on my way to work in the morning. they don't have it yet but are going to call me if they get it. otherwise i will have leave work a bit earlier tomorrow arvo. they said that they didn't get one of the NFS games (i think) until release day (that used to happen a bit when i worked at toywold as well. ps2 consoles we didn't get until lunch time of release day). wonder if there's any shops planning on doing midnight release that will have to call it off because of not having stock?

yes it has. higher HP doesn't = protection. if you put olive oil in the engine it would probably make more HP than any of those, however the engine might not survive the drive home. cowboy, that will give you a rough indication, however you still have to take into account different tollerances in each engine, etc.

if you don't have a compressor and a spray gun, then the bumper at home is a waste of time. any panel shop will be able to do it for a few hundred bucks and have it matched to your car pretty well. i had 3/4 of the car painted by a mate who's a panel beater and only in certain light at certain angles can you tell the difference, and that is only because the painted panel is sitting right next to an original panel (door to roof) and you can just tell that the roof is more faded, but that will be getting done in the future since the clear is starting to lift in 1 small spot.