mad082

if it was done under warranty then it isn't easy money for half assed work, it is often shit money so they do a shit job. most insurance companies tell the panel beaters how long it should take to fix the car and how much they are going to pay per hour to do it and only pay them that, even if it actually takes a few hours more. a good mate of mine is a panel beater and said that the days of over charging insurance companies for work done is long gone. the insurance companies even pay the same rate per hour for a pearl paint job as a flat colour, despite the pearl requiring more time to do. the insurance companies will even tell them not to fix some damage if they don't think it was caused in the accident, even if it obviously was.

oh and as for the key, it would purely come down to worn locks, slight differences in the key, etc.

how much pressure did you put in the pipng? other possibility is the AFM is dodgy

if you put an aftermarket alarm on then you will need to unlock the car with the remotes that come with it rather than the OEM ones, as most alarms also have an immobiliser and pressing the button disarms it as well as unlocking the car.

well for anywhere local here it was only $20 more to go for the collectors edition, so i thought i might as well. i can live without the stealth vehicle pack, although they may make it available to buy seperately on the playstation network, in which case i might buy it then.

no EB site says it as well,, just hidden a bit, and it doesn't list the cars. it's in the first line

Stealth Vehicle Pack ($300 version): * Audi R10 TDI Stealth Model * Honda NSX GT500 Stealth Model * Mazda 787B Stealth Model * McLaren F1 Stealth Model * Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG Stealth Model * Nissan GT-R GT500 Stealth Model plus the chrome pack Chrome Line Pack (both $130 and $300 versions): * Shelby Cobra 427 * Lamborghini Murci lago LP 640 * Audi R8 5.2 FSI Quattro * Mercedes-Benz 300SL Coupe * BMW M3 Coupe EDIT: damn, beat me to it. and yes, the $300 version gets both lots of cars. the $130 version also gets a 200 page booklet. DAS KAMU, the EBgames site now shows this banner for the signature edition, lol

you could get cars that have been in an accident that weren't written off like that though. i've seen a few cars with coil-overs fitted where the camber adjustment one 1 side is maxed out just to get standard camber, while the other is normal. one had obvious signs of front end damage, the other had no visible signs.

good stuff. wonder if anyone's going to get busted playing it early? i'd say that sony will probably be pretty tight on delivery times. i bet they don't send it out until 2 days before release so that it gets to shops the day before. although in the past they've not sent stuff out until the day before so it arrives the day of release. apparently some shop got reamed for selling COD (i think it was COD) the day before release. someone posted a pic on the net of the game with the sales reciept, which happened to have the name of the shop on it, and they recieved a thorough talking to and i think a substantial fine.

would've been setup purely for entertainment purposes. not because he didn't want to do it or anything like that. purely to be funny.

you may still see visible arcing out at idle. i know that when the leads when on a falcon i had were stuffed, it would only miss under load, but the arcing out was visible at idle.

i think a hell of a lot of skyline owners would probably be rather upset to find out that their cars have been in accidents. might not have happened in australia though, so they sort of forget that the cars had a life in japan before being here. they sort of just take it for granted that the car was never crashed in japan and that the kms on the clock are legit when they get it. as for buying a previously damaged car, it really comes down to how bad the damage was. there can be cars that are classed as written off with no structural damage at all, purely panel damage. my mothers car was nearly one of these. it was temporarily written off after an accident before the insurance company changed their mind and fixed it. the damage was confined to the passenger rear 1/4 panel, tail light, bumper and boot lid.

why does everyone have to get a boner over the GTR though? personally i think it is a hunk of crap and would take a vn commodore over one. i don't like it at all, and that is my personal opinion and i am allowed to have it and there is nothing you can say that will make me think otherwise. i don't expect people to share my opinion. if i won lotto i wouldn't even take one for a test drive. they have absolutely no appeal to me. sure it may be able to do some quick times around tracks, but i don't care about that. i don't care what the brochure says. i don't like the look of it, and i don't like the fact that in order to get it to do those times nissan tuned the motor up to a point where you need to service it everytime you reverse it out of the garage, and they fitted it with things that if you use you void the warranty.

the basic $110 one has about 6 cars less than the $130 one, which then has about 6 cars less than the $300 one. not sure whether it's a case of you get the extra cars straight away or whether the game simply has the cars available in it. if it is just that it has the cars available in it straight away then i would say that the cars are still available in the game so you aren't missing out on any cars, you just don't get them straight away.

Dude you could've just posted in the rather large gt5 thread that was pretty much at the top of the list when. you posted.

Rowan the car list will be pretty accurate. just look at all the previous versions and how many double ups there were there

no. a tuned ecu actually runs leaner that a stock ecu as the stock ecu's are tuned a bit rich for protection

is that just by the seat of the pants, or side by side race? if it is just by the seat of the pants, then it may "feel" quicker, but you may find that in a side by side comparison it is slower. the reason being that with the stock exhaust it will pull pretty well lower in the rev range and then it will start to choke a bit up high. while with your exhaust it will be slower in the lower rev range and then the further up the rev range you get the better it is getting, so it gives the illusion that it is pulling harder, but it may actually not be pulling mucher harder, or even as hard as the stock systemed car. that is the problem with the seat of the pants dyno. it feels like your engine is coming to life higher in the rev range while his would feel like it's dying off, but that doesn't mean yours is faster. i'm not saying it isn't faster, just saying that the seat of the pants dyno can lie. the extra fuel usage is prime evidence that you are losing power. you are having to apply the accelerator more to go anywhere. if you were to put a smaller exhaust on then you would gain power and therefore effeciency, so you wouldn't have to apply the accelerator as much to go at the same speed.

with healthy coilpacks you should be able to run higher boost (at least on the stock turbo) with the standard 1.1mm gap. mate of mine with yellow jackets is running 1.1mm on about 13psi with no problems.

both the GTS4 and GTR weigh roughly the same, so it tells you that it is mostly the AWD system.

pretty sure that more comes down to the options chosen. front and rear bars don't mean much as they can easily be replaced. my type M didn't have the more aggressive front bar on it because it had been damaged and it had just had the non turbo front bar put on it.

r33 gts-t are type M, not M spec. it's just that 90% of people don't know this so just refer to them as M spec. as for what it means, it means jack all in the r33 range. pretty much every gts-t r33 is a type M, except for a rare 4 door auto gts-t which is a type G or something like that. in the r32 gts-t the type M meant bigger brakes and leather gear boot and handbrake boot, or something like that. but even then, most of them were type M as well.

well which would you prefer, another variety of skyline, or a completely different manufacturer such as a ferrari or lambo? i'd say that the latter offers up a larger amount of veriety than having another skyline in the game. that said, they could've scrapped a few mx5's, rx7's or even some models of the skyline gtr (not the r35), or even just made 1 version of the r32 gts-t to put in the r33 gts-t and/or r34 gt-t.

exactly. they (jeremy, james and richard) were all having problems breathing, etc. the cars were very much down on power because of the fact that the density of the air was such that the combustion happening inside the engine was extremely weak.

ahahaha, good stuff, LOL as for the debate above about back pressure, back pressure is bad on all modern motors. end of story. the whole exhaust size debate unfortunately has nothing to do with back pressure on modern cars, that is just what people use as the excuse for why not to put a big exhaust on, however they are actually incorrect. you don't want to increase back pressure. this will not give you any sort of power gain anywhere in the rev range. the real reason why you don't want to go a big exhaust has to do with the scavenging effect in the exhaust. a given exhaust size will have an ideal amount of flow from a motor where the exhaust gases flow the most effeciently. it is a mix of finding the ideal gas velocity where the gases from one cylinder aren't slowing down to a point where the gases from the next cylinder to fire are then being slowed down by them, etc. the problem is that you can only really have an exhaust that is most effecient at 1 end of the rev range. car manufacturers make this at the lower end of the rev range where you spend most of the time driving. no point having an exhaust the flows really well at the top of the rev range if it means a drop in torque at the sort of revs you are at when driving on the highway so you have to drop down a gear evertyime you come to a hill. a race car on the other hand spends all of it's time at the top 20 or 30% of it's rev range so naturally it will need a bigger exhaust and any losses to the lower end of the rev range are of no great concern as it will never be at the lower rev range. people seem to be too concerned with putting exhausts on road cars that will give them higher max power outputs on a dyno, as they think that this means they are gaining power everywhere. this isn't the case though. if you drive your car as a daily, very rarely rev it above 5000rpm and never take it to the track or drags, then even a 2.5" exhaust on a skyline is too big and you would find that the car would be nicer to drive, quicker (for the rev range you are driving in) and probably more economical with the stock exhaust.