mad082

underbody wash at the carwash.

i've seen it in the following locations, under side window, on the door, in the door sill (under the door), on the lip of the rear guards, around windscreen and back window (often a sign the windscreen has been removed as the paint will get scratched when taking it out).

no way at all to tell the genuine kms. a car could have done 200,000kms but was owned by someone who looked after it well, so it looks like it has only done the claimed kms. or you could have a car that has done 50,000kms, wasn't looked after that well and looks like it has done 200,000kms.

by looking through the spokes in the wheel and seeing how much meat is left on the pad. and then if you feel the rotor for a wear lip you can tell how worn the rotors are (or at least how worn since they were last machined)

i'm guessing it was for both shocks, and the install on them is a bit of a pain. gotta pull the parcel shelf out.

because then you can simply just walk into any auto parts store and buy a kit. don't have to worry about buying all the little parts that you may require for the stock unit. the aftermarket kits are designed to fit pretty much any car. i've had 2 cars with aftermarket kits, and they both worked reasonably well. one better than the other though.

Clear has been done. didn't last. Cream was the original for computers. tvs were woodgrain

what turbo do you have? i found my 33 with the stock turbo at 14psi to be pretty good in the wet, even with average tyres on it. you also have to remember that the commodores, etc have much taller gearing that skylines, so comparing the traction in 2nd gear in a commodore to 2nd gear in a skyline isn't that accurate. it would actually be more accurate to compare traction in 2nd gear in the commodore to 3rd gear in the skyline.

the costs would only be that high because there is something worn or damaged that needs replacing. general maintainance costs are no different to any other car. you just change the oil and the filter and replace any things that need replacing. most of your services shouldn't cost more than $100 if paying a workshop to do it. the only other expensive service is the 100,000km service where you need the timing belt replaced, but as i said, that is only done every 100,000kms. might be worth finding out exactly they are doing for the $2000 to make sure you aren't getting ripped off.

my point is that you don't know that it was damaged when he sent it. it may have gotten damaged after he sent it to you. and if it was, how is that his fault, and why should he have to wear the cost of something damaged by australia post? his mistake was not checking the item, he isn't responsible for the damage though. i'm not taking sides here, just looking at it from all angles. you aren't.

it's an auto corolla, what do you expect? lol

i see one in gympie occasionally. doesn't look too bad (looks better than the red 34 2 door in town which is ruined by the fact that it's a natro with a GTR badge)

you can get camber kits. most suspension places will be able to get them and install them for you. this will postly solve your issue.

don't see the point of owning 2 cars as the missus and i both work at the same spot (at my business), and her car is fast enough (will beat natro skylines, lol), and is cheap to run, and tows my tinny well enough, so no point paying $1000 in rego and insurance a year for a lawn ornament. oh and the bicycles comment was based on the fact i own a bike shop.

why do you say that? the rb20 is a torqueless motor. r33 is a faster car, more low end power which makes it better for everyday driving as you don't have to wring it's neck to get anywhere.

how would an intercooler increase lag? an intercooler increases lag for 1 reasons, 1: there is a much bigger space to be filled than a bit of piping, 2: it adds a bit of restriction to the system. as for limiting the amount of boost that can be run, because the piping is longer there is less need for a cooler as the air is cooled a bit as it travels along the piping. also these turbo setups are generally installed on NA cars, so the compression engine is going to be more limiting in how much boost you can run than the lack of an intercooler. that is also why i made the point about them not being a hardcore turbo upgrade. anyone who bolts a turbo to a stock NA motor isn't really going for a hardcore setup. if they were they would decompress the head to allow them to run more boost. look at the turbo kits you can buy for a lot of NA engines. they are generally only designed to run 5 or 6psi. you never see them designed to run 15 or 18psi. they are purely designed to run within the limits of the stock engine with very minimal upgrades. some don't even really change the ecu and simply add in another injector to add a bit more fuel.

probably be easier to use an aftermarket on.

the only real mistake the seller made was to not check the item when he recieved it. this means he doesn't know whether it was damaged before he got it or not. if it was fine when he had sent it out then it isn't his fault and he has no reason to do anything about it. unfortunately because he didn't check it before sending it out it is unknown when it was damaged. it really puts it into a grey area. but it really has very little to do with the actual seller. he wasn't the one who damaged it and is purely the middle man and the damaged occured outside of his control.

same

please tell me that you simply stuffed up and meant to say that it has a 2.5" system and not a 3.5" system. if it does indeed have a 3.5" system then you are a tool. as kris said, you will be losing power. as for the rev limiter, they have a stock one, why put an aftermarket one on? the bee-r limiter when it is popping and banging away when you are on the limiter you are putting excess stress on the manifold as well as the valves. instead of the explosion taking place in the combustion chamber, it is taking place in the exhaust manifold.

there is also a trophy list. has 60 trophies.

what do you actually have that was classed as "front mount turbo"? is it an intercooler? depends on whether you had to cut the front reo to get it in as to whether it's illegal or not. also depends on your states rules regarding intercoolers as well. pod filter, again depends on your states regulations. i only know qld's where they are fine as long as they are secured with a bracket. some states though don't allow both a pod and an intercooler. you can either have 1 or the other. no rubbers on the pedals is one not many people know about. just go to a wreckers and get the pads off a random car and see if they fit. the no airbag one should only apply if the car was fitted with an airbag standard. if it wasn't then they can't get you for it, however, if you have an aftermarket wheel they can get you for being too small. tyre placard, well i'm not sure how you'll get that one sorted. if they normally have them inside the glovebox then just get a new glovebox. brakes, well depends on whether your pads were really worn, or the rotors were. seat belts, bit hard to say about that one. are they frayed at all? radiator mount, well again, just get a new one. long story short though, most of the stuff you got done for is your own fault and you are actually in the wrong.

if it was a leak in the cross over pipe like what mosquitocoils had then it would still only happen under boost as that is when the pressure is increased in the pipe and it is forcing air out which makes the noise. basically like whistling, just holding your mouth in the position doesn't make you whistle until you start blowing air out. the other possibility which is also rather possible is that it is infact the turbo. it would be worthwhile for you to pull off the intake pipe and feel the turbo for any play. basically if you can move the shaft side to side a bit (small amount of movement is normal, but not too much), or backwards and fowards and it's stuffed.

well played, lol

pretty sure those boards at the cooroy turn off and near the amamoor turn off are just pressure sensor triggered and not camera operated, so it is slightly different.