mad082

dude you had a thread about this the other day. why are you asking the exact same question again?

any visible rust is only the tip of the iceberg. generally the patch of rust will be either 2 or 4 times the size of what you can actually see, and you need to get all of it or it will just come back.

if the pulley can be pulled off then you can just pull it off, but not all of them can. not sure whether or not they can on the skylines. would be best to go see an air con place, they will be able to have a look and tell you whether or not they can be.

i'd start with a professional injector clean. if you can pull them out and take them in yourself it should only cost about $30 each injector. a bit more if you get the workshop to pull them out (they are a bitch to do in the 33)

there is no second car. my point was that i don't see the point of owning 2 cars (and paying 2 regos), when we only own one. so that is why i don't own a car. the missus does, but not me.

just in case anyone has an issue like this in the future, we sorted the problem. it was the s13 sensor causing the issue. changing to an s14 issue should solve the problem as it puts out half the pulses of the s13.

pretty sure i still got a few mambo stickers in there. like old school ones of the dog farting or licking it's balls.

it's finally here!!!!!!!!!!!!! my new bike

welcome to about 7 weeks ago, lol

that would be one epicly high mountain to drop 15 degrees and get down to 9psi pressure. you are talking roughly 13,000 feet, (so nearly twice the height of Mount Kosciuszko, and about as high as mt fuji). as for how they would deal with that, i don't know. i don't know enough about cooling properties at different air densities. but i think that the fact that very few people drive at extreme heights, most car manufacturers wouldn't put that much time into working it out.

i agree with adam, you take criticism really well. look the limiter will get peoples attention alright, but a majority of the attention you get will people thinking you are a moron, or from the police who promptly fine you and possibly defect your car, meaning that you have to put it all back to stock to get the defects cleared. it also damages the image of skyline owners and makes more people think of us as hoons, and in turn increases the amount of attention that the innocent skyline drivers get from police.

how old are the splitfires? none of the aftermarket coils seem to have quite as long a life as the genuine nissan ones, not even splitfires. also how old are your plugs, and what gap are they?

i think they have a lock to not allow them to move out of park without the key being turned to on, or something like that.

buying off the net will be much cheaper than paying RRP at a shop.

www.ecutalk.com. download the software from there, it's free. also comes with the cable if you buy it (can buy cables off the site, or PM newkleer on here), along with a few other programs. either fuel pump. if the pump is dying then it won't supply as much fuel. or if the fuel filter is blocked. injector cleaner won't really do shit. need to pull them out and have them professionally cleaned. electrical contact cleaner is fine to use on the AFM as long as you are gentle.

both were in the car when i bought it. only difference between the 2 was how smooth they engaged when activated them. one was much jerkier than the other and would give a burst of acceleration for a second when you activated it. having a highflowed throttle body though didn't help the situation, but even before that it wasn't as smooth. the actual functioning of each was pretty much the same though. i'm going to get one for the current car some time when i could be bothered (and have the money). also might try and make up a light on the dash for it too

once you get those issues out of the way then it shouldn't cost much to maintain. as i said, it's no different to any car really. cost wise it would be the same as a 97 model to maintain. it would also be pretty much the same as an 89. it would also be pretty close to how much it would cost to maintain a commodore or even a corolla. pretty much everything you have had done won't need to be done again for quite a while. coolant will generally last 3 years, unless you drive a lot of kms every year. power steering won't need to be done again for quite a few years either. the steering and suspension and brake stuff should also last quite a few years now as well. all you should need to do now is just change the engine oil and oil filter every 5000km, which should cost you about $60, depending on the quality of oil you use. if you pay someone to do it then it will be up around $100. you may have other things that need replacing in time, but that comes down to the condition of the car, and is something that you could have to do in any car.

you can end up with bits of the compressor wheel in the engine (had a mate with a s2 33 have the butterfly in the throttle body be wedged open, and therefore rev it's arse off without touching the accelerator by a piece of the compressor wheel). also it seems as though small particles of ceramic can end up in the engine via the exhaust ports. i didn't think it was possible, but apparently it does happen.

www.ecutalk.com or PM newkleer on here. i have one of the consult cables and they are great for looking at this sort of thing. i got the usb one so i don't have to worry about stuffing around with serial/usb adapters. and yes all 33's have the consult port

plenty of people have had their GTR on a dyno, but it was no point me telling you any of the places i know of since i'm in QLD. there are a lot of people who would be too lazy to post up. there would also be quite a few who just take them to workshops with rwd dynos, because at the end of the dyno the dyno is simply a tuning tool and you may make 300hp on one dyno then go to a dynoe down the road and only make 280hp. any shop with a 4wd dyno would be able to do a power run for you. it isn't rocket science and doing a simple power run is really no different between a gtr and a 4x4. you just tie it down, put in the data and do the run. as for tuning the mines ecu, don't know how many places will actually be able to retune it for you. i have a feeling it will be very few, if any. the fact that they are a remapped ecu, means that more than likely you need all the emulator and rom burning stuff, which not many workshops have since it is pretty uncommon to do. they would more than likely need the right software as well, which i doubt many people at all have. it isn't like tuning a PFC or nistune, etc where they are relatively common and software is easily accessible.

cars differ a lot between them, so you can't simply compare one to another. if you want to know what the ecu is reading as the temp, get a consult cable. it will tell you what temp the temp sensor is saying the engine is. do you know for a fact that it's running rich? have you had it on a dyno, or are you simply going off the fact that you can't run as much boost? it may be that your old car had a weaker fuel pump (and was running out of flow), or your current car may need the injectors cleaned to get a better spray pattern to make it ignite better. the spark plugs, coils and ignitor (if series 1) may have been in better condiion on the old car. even the compression can make a difference. also i'd be more looking at the AFM being the cause of any richness issues that would be ecu related. things like different brand intercoolers with different flow rates, boost gauges, possible slight intake leaks can all alter how rich the car runs because of restriction, variance in boost levels and the afm reading a different amount of air to what is actually making it to the motor.

if you don't care about turbo damage and possible engine damage, run the turbo at about 16psi and you should make about 210-220kw. the turbo may last a week or it may last a year. i was running mine at 15psi for quite a while and never had any problems. went a lot better than it did at 11psi.

depends on the car. different cars solve this in different ways. (this is just my understanding of it, so don't take it as gospel) in the case of the skylines and a lot of other cars, they use a heated element in the afm to work out airflow. as the air passes the filament it cooles it. the more it cools it the higher the voltage it sends to ecu and the more fuel it puts in. cooler, more dense air will result in a higher voltage. hotter, less dense air will result in less voltage. cars that use a map sensor standard will often have an intake air temp probe so that they can then take into account the different air densities. as for a "safe" tune, that generally refers to how close to the limit the tune is. if they are running at bang on 12:1 or 12.5: AFR and have the timing set to just before it pings then it isn't as safe as a tune at 11.8:1 AFR and the timing backed off a bit. it won't make as much power as the leaner, more agressive tune, but should you have an issue with the injectors starting to not perform as well then there is more headway before damage starts being done. realistically you don't get much safer than the stock tune. they run way more fuel than they need to and pretty low timing. you can have some reasonably big fuel supply issues before things start to get damaged.

no one would have a 3.5" exhaust on a NA and want a rev limiter that makes loud bangs unless they were into illegal driving behaviour. my first advice is to scrap the 3.5" exhaust and put a 2.5" exhaust on it. unless you have a v8 in it with a serious amount of work done to it, then you won't even come close to needing the 3.5" exhaust, and in the lower rev range you are probably losing a considerable amount of power compared to a stock exhaust. all you will be doing is damaging the image of skyline owners and asking to be pulled over by the police. same goes for the rev limiter. you are asking to be reamed by the cops, as well as damage your car. there is no way to get the popping sound without putting undue stress on engine components. that said, it isn't even worth putting one on a turbo car.

that would be heat from the gearbox. might be worth checking the oil level of the box, however it is normal to get some heat from there.