mad082

needs more monitors exactly right. when i bought my surround system i listened to quite a few different systems. those cheap dvd player surround systems have terrible speakers, as do a most tv's. my system isn't top of the line, but it is a sony component amp with floor standing front speaker and book shelf type rears and a good sub. the system retailed for about $1300 (i paid much less than that thanks to someone writing the wrong price on the sign for the speakers), and it sounds great. the standard speakers in the tv are terrible, so that is why i bought it. even just watching tv it sounds much better.

some of you guys really do take gaming too seriously.

dumping off the line is hardly the same as getting wheelspin at high speed. there was no mention of dumping off the line in the post i was refering to. if there had been i would have replied differently as i am well aware of how the rear end moves around.

yeah if putting it into neutral makes the car coast just fine then it is more than likely a gearbox issue (won't be brakess). may be low on fluid, the fluid is in need of replacing, or the gearbox may have an issue.

if you aren't actually losing fuel but can smell it then it may just be the rubber boot on the filler neck (goes from the tank to the filler cap). i think a few people on here have had issues with it in the past.

ok there is a few things here to address. yes i don't think having perfect to real life sound makes a game better than game with not as realistic sound. if it makes that much difference to you then fine, but i think you are just being picky. when i'm racing i hear the sounds of the car, but i'm not 'listening' to it. that is why it doesn't bother me. the other thing is, the quality of the speakers you are using make a huge difference. secondly, the wheelspin thing, if you are going along a straight road in 5th gear and get wheelspin, the car won't always step out. it can in fact keep going in a straight line without stepping out at all. i've seen plenty of v8 supercar racing in the wet where they have been getting wheelspin on the straights and never had to make an ajustment to the steering. if the road is off camber or you are turning then it will step out.

there is already an update for the game. 133mb worth. seems to unlock more of the online mode stuff (which they obviously left out of the game so that they could control it a bit more to stop people getting on there too soon before the release date. if the world ends in the next 32 hours (gotta take into account the time i will be at work before i get to play the game), i'm going to be soooooo pissed.

what model falcon? they will only fit AU or later. on E series and earlier they sit in a long way and look like arse. also they are only a 6.5" rim so any tyre wider than 225 starts to look crap because it buldges out. even 225 looks a bit crappy. better off finding a set of 16 x 8" rims to fit. if the car is an AU or BA then there will be heaps available. if earlier then there still should be a few about. find some 16's off a later model XR6 or 8

i'm not overly up on the grounding kits, but i think they may just be a bunch of wires that you could buy and make up yourself for a lot less. the error could be causing the issue as you said. you'd really need to take note of the timing, etc when driving normally as well as when the issue is happening

the reason why you probably got ok economy on the old sensor is probably because it was always saying that the o2 reading was rich so it was constantly running at the leaner end of the scale. i may be wrong though as i don't know whether a lower voltage or higher voltage gives the reading of being rich. also with using the new sensor, resetting the ecu may help with that a bit. now on to the ecu error (better to talk about it in this thread than to start another), i'm not 100% sure, but i think the error can be anywhere in the wiring for the CAS, not just in the unit itself, for it to show the code. however the fact that it is throwing the code after the starting error makes me think that the unit and the wiring isn't the issue. the car not turning over is the cause of the issue. the car not turning over and losing power is probably giving false readings to the ecu. not really sure what the issue of it not starting could be though. could be a dodgy earth, dodgy battery or maybe a starter issue.

yeah so much grip that they bog down. don't think they are actually that quick over the 1/4. pretty sure the fwd versions are quicker thanks to being lighter.

baaaaaaaaaaaahahahaham was wondering who would make the first comment in response to me saying something about a magna.

sound means very little to me as when i race i don't just go for a sunday drive and think to myself "oh that doesn't quite sound right", i mostly ignore the sound and put all my concentration into braking at the last second, hitting the apex and accelerating as early as possible. for me as long as the graphics are decent and it handles very well, then that is all i car about. i care about the racing and not all the wank factor stuff that goes with it.

the o2 sensor only affects fuel economy at low load (light throttle, so when cruising at a steady speed, etc). the moment you give it the beans the ecu ignores the o2 sensor. so if you spend a lot of time accelerating moderately, as well as do a lot of short trips then your economy will always suck. the other thing to look at is the coolant temp. take not of how long the car takes to come up to temp and what the actual temp is (since you have ecutalk). within about 5 mins of driving the temp should be up around 80 degrees. if it takes much longer to get to that temp, or never does, then you need a new thermostat and replacing it will improve fuel economy.

watch a few videos. you will see the sound is much better than previous games. i think part of the issue with previous versions of the game (and people will still say the same about this game to an extent) is that they think the sound should be what they hear when the car goes past, however in the games they have always made it sound a bit more like the perspective from which you are driving. the sound of a car behind the car is different to that in the car or at the front of the car, and people driving from the front bar view should hear more engine noise and not as much exhaust note, while people driving from the rear view should hear more exhaust note and less engine noise. inside the car should hear a mix of exhaust noise, gearbox noise (in race cars), and engine noise. also saying that a game is shit purely because of the audio is pretty sad and pathetic. how about you rate it on how it plays, rather than dismiss what is more than likely going to be the best handling racing game around, and probably the most visually advanced game. if the sound being slightly off is enough to outweigh all of that then i'm sorry, you are a super nerd.

i dunno about that. 147kw v6 magna with just a cat back exhaust will run high 14's. i got 14.8 out of mine. quickest i've seen with full exhaust is 14.4

yes you can. they just pop out.

do you need a tissue?

my 33 had a translated manual. i actually think it was done in NZ.

hahaha, of course it's the only one that says "to punish and enslave" cause only a douche would have that on the side of their car. also is the black filler cap cover so you remember where it is? LOL

terry, for that very reason i have never once said that i paid less to get cheaper stamp duty, however people i have sold cars to have asked me to put a lower value on the form.

i think you need to do a bit of research on how engines work.

ahaha, yeah, since to drive a veyron you just about need a truck licence due to the weight, LOL. would like to see the same race but with the new updated version of the veyron.

if that is the case then you should just be able to bolt the motor in and it will be 100% legal. i've heard of a few people lately who have been in the same lucky situation as yourself where they have found that their turbo car was actually a natro originally which has made them able to swap back to natro.

+1. n15 SSS pulsar. all the goodness of sr20de with none of the hassles such as higher insurance of an import or extra police attention. out of the 3 cars listed though, i'd still have to pick the s15. the supra would be faster but i can't stand the interior, so that immediately puts it at the bottom of the list for me.