mad082

Can someone help me please. i switched from the mobile site to the full site on my phone and now can't go back.

I found the drifting in this so much esier that prologue. i can keep a drift going round the whole of tsukuba including the back straight. that is in a shelby corba with 450hp or so and stock tyres.

also, liking the new mobile version (just tried it on the phone to see how it is). only thing is that i can't post pics or anything like that from it without typing the code. there is no button for it. i have to use the full site version for that which i always have problems with because the width of the text boxes are wider than my screen and it doesn't follow the text very well so i will be typing off screen for some of the line. also i don't think i can multi quote from the mobile site either (took me a bit to figure out how to reply to a post at all). neither of the above are much of an issue since i don't use my phone to post much anyway, but i just thought i'd post up about it anyway, since that is what this thread is for.

is there going to be a skin like the old dark skin? because i prefer the look of it to the light skin. also i'm not sure whether it's just when i view my posts, but if i quote someone it comes up with all sorts of encoding in the quoted post. i'll get a pic to show you incase it's just the way it shows the post to me. this was after hitting the reply button post can be found here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346349-rebuild-or-buy-another-skyline/page__view__findpost__p__5578896 looks like this to me

until someone who knows what they are looking for comes along and points it out to you, LOL

it really comes down to how many people in your area are after a NA skyline and how fast you want to get rid of it. but skylines aren't worth shit anymore. if you want a quick sale you'd have to put about 5k on it, if you don't mind waiting then you might get 8k. my mate paid 20k for his s2 33 gts-t a few years back. it's extremely tidy (one of the best i've seen), and he is trying to sell it for 10 to 12k.

the most expensive car i have is a 427 corba. i'm guessing you are using the share cars function, giving the car to a second account you have, not saving the first one (so you don't lose the car) and then giving the car back to your first account? i don't really see the point. i had close to a million dollars without doing a single race in A-spec or B-spec, just the special events.

a fwd ca18 bolts in easier than a sr20 into an n13 pulsar. if it was n14 or 15 then you would go sr20

All the GT games have allowed you to max out the power well above the power levels of your opponents cars. in gt4 though your A spec score was lower if your car was much more powerfull than your opponents.

the fact that the question was even asked it mega LULZ. the fact that it was even contemplated was nearly as funny. there's nothing like a set of big wheels to make it look like your brakes are off a pushbike, LOL.

post a pic of it so we can see how bad the damage is. it might not be that bad? i'm guessing that it won't be a write off (i've seen some pretty nasty looking damage get fixed before because it was mostly cosmetic and very little structural damage. a lot of people are overly picky when it comes to buying a damaged car, however as i said before, a hell of a lot of imports on the roads these days have been in some sort of accident, and you also don't know what accident history the car had in japan, and it's pretty much impossible to find out.

i think 150rwkw for a brand spanking new car is a bit optimistic. i think 140 might be a bit more realistic.

the new holdens sound pretty good thanks to the chev motor. before the chev motors the fords sounded so much better than the holdens. i still have a soft spot for the ford v8's though

i saw on a forum someone saying that the real reason behind the recall was that Kaz missed out on a copy and they are all sold out so he's doing a recall so he can get a copy, LOL

yeah it's a joke, and a funny joke at that

ahahaha, looks like you can't trust release dates even after you have it in your posession.

i prefer to do it more like how the car comes from the factory. old cars i turn abs off. new cars that have abs standard i leave it on. shits me off when people say "pfft, you are driving with abs on, i have it turned off so it's more realistic" when you are talking about a car that has abs standard, because it would be more realistic to leave it on and possibly even turn it up a few notches, LOL

i do. i never had the cd's to start with (downloaded it). i just loaded the setup file, followed what i had to do there and then just had to copy some file into the windows folder and it was all done.

craig is right. if you or the other guy have insurance than simply go through it and get it fixed. as for driving a repaired car, a hell of a lot of imports are repaired cars as it is (a i'd say that a majority of owners have no idea that their car has been crashed as it may have happened in japan). if done properly you shouldn't be able to tell the difference between a repaired car and a new car. it's when people do it in their back yard without getting proper alignments done that you end up with something that doesn't drive right.

you just got lucky with the sr20. both the sr and rb motors are good, but constant abuse is going to cause something to fail eventually. all it takes is a minor weakness in 1 part to have it let go and destroy an engine. i think maybe you should show a bit of mechanical sympathy and keep your boy racer antics off the street. people in imports redlining it all the time are the reason why import owners are targetted as hoons.

driving ability has little to do with the damage to the cars. he might be able to lap around a track fast, but if he spends all of his time on the street limiter bashing, flooring it everytime he takes off, manually changing the auto box, and just generally raping the car then he is going to blow shit up no matter what car he has. he would be the type of person who if he had a 33 would have blown the stock turbo and possibly even the engine.

*shakes fist and mumbles swear words i'm using a controller too

no the eiger norwand rally is the one that climbs the mountain, i'm talking about chamonix. all snow. starts off with a few sweeping bends (right, left, right). my best attempt is about 4:27 and you need a 4:19 to get bronze. my first attempt was a 4:29. the eiger norwand rally took me a while to get since i kept banging into the barriers and getting disqualified. what shits me with the sebastion loeb rally challenge the most though is that if you finish you get disqualified and it doesn't hold your time so you don't get split time comparisons so you don't know how much better you are doing compared to previous runs. you just have to remember the times.

how the f**k did you do the snow? what traction control setting? i could win the normal rally championship easy, but the sebastion loeb one i'm totally sucking in the snow

did the 20E gearbox use an electronic speedo drive (like the 25's do) or mechanical like the r32? i'm guessing that it was an electronic like the 25, and if they but a 20 box out of a 32 and just put the speedo sensor out of the 33 into it it might not read correctly. or the 20E box may have been auto, so they used some random speedo sender. your theory could be right though. only 1 way to find out for sure though.