mad082

he's talking about in real life, not in the make believe world of the movie.

should be able to yeah. only thing with having it on a GPS unit is that you need to constantly update it so it gets the latest spots the mobile units are sitting at, so you can still get done if they are at a location that isn't on your list. but that said, if it is a brand new spot and you are the first to go through there with trapster then you will still get done, as it isn't a radar detector, simply uses gps maps and remembers the locations of them. as for spending $1000 or more on a detector, i don't see the point really. unless you are a habitual speeder who is constantly getting booked then you are spending a lot of money to save a small amount. i've been booked twice in 11 years, with the fines totaling $375 (both of those on my p's). how many 3-10km over fines would it have to save you from to pay for itself? quite a few. a few years worth for most people.

yeah i agree with the data usage. it isn't that much. also agree with having a data usage app. i've used trapster on my phone and it's good. it updates so if someone goes past one a few mins before you and logs it then it will tell you about it. you can put the locations onto a normal GPS as well, but i don't think it gives the spoken warning, just a "ding ding" and it will say the reason for the warning in text on the screen. i have fixed speed cameras and redlight cameras already in my gps with spoken warnings that i downloaded of another site. haven't gotten around to putting the trapster ones on though. as for getting done for 3km/h over, if you have the correct profile tyres on your car, to get done for doing 3km/h over in a 60 zone, you realistically need to be doing about 65 by the speedo. that's a few needle widths over the line. speedos generally over read by a few kmh, so you have to be doing more than 3kmh faster on the speedo to get caught. in the case of the missus car, in a 100km/h zone, 108kmh is about how fast i'd have to be going on the speedo to get booked, which is more than a little slight speed error from paying attention to the road and not the speed.

one of the stealth return flow ones from just jap will fit without much cutting as it uses the existing piping, however most of them require at least minor trimming to the front bar or reo.

if it is bent then you will need to have the car put on a rack (some panel shops have them) and straighten the chassis. this method is both safe and legal, but it usually isn't cheap.

probably not bullshitting, just an idiot who saw an email saying "next thursday" and thought "the next thrusday is tomorrow (well today now) so that must be when the game is being released"

if you are at 20psi on that turbo and want another 90hp, then you are going to need a bigger turbo

CAS is on the front of the motor. round thing with 3 10mm bolts holding it on that when loosened allow you to turn it sideways a little bit (to adjust the timing). has a plug with a few wires in it coming out the side. could possibly be a fuel pressure issue, but i don't really think so going to ask a stupid question, but you aren't using the stock gauge as your only boost gauge are you? it you are then that is the reason why you are having issues. it doesn't read in PSI, so what you think is 9psi is a buttload higher. about 18psi in fact, and any issues you are having is the ECU going into it's protection mode.

might be worth checking the level of the fluid in the transmission. it may be getting a bit low.

if they are the same as a pulsar, just try your local wreckers

Yeah the glitch was cool. turn rear downforce up to full, turn the front downforce down to the lowest setting. at about 350kmh it would do a wheelstand and the speed would skyrocket. Pretty sure there was a drag car in one of the earlier games that wasn't the hks 33.

i remember one of the early GT games where you could win/buy a proper drag car. think it was a funny car type thing or was it a full dragster? i can't remember, but anywho, that thing was funny to try and race around tracks with. blast it down the straights and then have to slow right down for corners, lol

i have no desire to own one, or even drive one for that matter, so you can feel free to get back to wanking off over your GTR, because you can say anything you like but i'm not going to change my mind and that is my whole point. i don't care about how fast some pro driver can manage to drive it round some track in a totally different country. i don't like the exterior, i don't like the interior. i just don't like anything about the car at all. you are saying you don't like the 911 when others do, and i'm simply saying i don't like the GTR while others do. but thank you for taking the time out of your day to come on here and defend your car against some unknown person who's opinion differs to yours. i hope you feel better after having done so. and i'm sure the tiny little motor is small when compared with a 6.0L v8, but that is a pretty stupid thing to say. capacity wise they are only 200cc less than a r35. just remember that point if you ever have a discussion about the r32 at bathurst. the r32 GTR was a $100,000 road car when it raced, up against $50,000 or less cars, so just the platform that they were basing the cars off was at least twice the price, so of course it would be a better car when it was done. it's like making a race car out of a skyline and putting it against a race car made out of a festiva. i'm sure if you spent 130k doing up a vn you would have something that would beat a GTR. but i'm getting off topic.

description makes it sound like it's for a air intake temp sensor. you could essentially just unplug your coolant temp sensor though. will have the same effect. the thing is though, on long trips it may really affect fuel economy if the resisitor in the little box (that's all they are) made the ecu think the engine temp was so low that it ignored the o2 sensor and just ran on the cold start enrichment maps.

the 35/40 may be a bit big for the 25 without putting the rb30 bottom end in, especially if it's going to be a daily. as bubba said, ecu will be fine if it's a wire in job, but if a plug and play probably not. injectors won't fit. rb25 are side feed, VL are top feed. fuel reg, well not much point with that without the rest, and even if the the bigger injectors did fit there's still not much point.

the noise will have nothing to do with the service unless the gearbox oil was changed as well. if it was then the gearbox oil may be slightly thinner and is making the noise more evident than it was, or you are simply hearing it for the first time and it has been there for a while. the noise is more than likely the throw out bearing (or is it the input shaft bearing, i can never remember which) though, which wouldn't be altered by the service at all. generally if the noise goes away with pushing the clutch pedal then it is that.

you also have to remember that that article is about race headers where you generally won't have much of an exhaust after the headers, so some of those principles have to altered slightly. that is why it also makes no mention of power gains/losses from the exhaust system at all, but you will still get power gains and losses from catback systems

when i put my cooler on (wasn't a cooling pro but i had the same issue), i cut the nipple on and welded it to the pipe from the turbo to the cooler. other people have simply bought a screw in nipple and put that into the pipe.

also won't work on rb20 or rb25 powered cars as they don't have an intake air temp sensor. i'd also like to know how adding in more fuel (which they say happens in the explanation) equals better fuel economy, lol

it isn't just about the size of the cooler but the flow rate. they create turbulence because the air coming into it doesn't just keep on flowing as it would in a straight pipe. some of it hits the plate around the holes and gets slowed down, etc.

he may be dealing with insurance companies that will pay extra, but the ones my mate does work for pay the flat rate. he will quote them for the time it should take, however they can turn around and say "no, we are on'y paying for XX amount of hours to paint it". i'm also not saying they aren't making a profit as they still would be, but it certainly isn't like what people think where they charge double what they would charge a regular customer. often they don't charge much more at all. as for the cheap respray bit, why is it that the moment you tell someone about cheaper priced place they automatically think that it is going to be shit. i've had some cheap work done in my time and it's been better than some of the work i've seen from places asking twice the price. a cheaper place may do just as good of a job as a more expensive place, just simply not have as higher hourly rate because they aren't as greedy. look at car dealer workshops. they often charge a lot more per hour than other workshops, but that doesn't mean they will do a good job. a lot of the time they will do a worse job because they simply don't give a shit, yet a smaller workshop will do a good job because if something goes wrong it's coming out of their pocket to fix it.

why is that some sort of achievment though? the way i look at the GTR compared to it's rivals is this: all other supercars are like a really hot chick that goes off in the sack. the GTR is like a sex doll that gets you off a bit faster but without all the passion. in my opinion it just doesn't have the raw emotion that other supercars, and even some non-supercars have. the mustang appeals to me much more than the GTR. hell even a v8 commodore or falcon does too.

just checked it. $77. bugger me that's cheap yes, the 25th is the official release date.

if you are normally online on your ps3 i wouldn't go online after installing GT5 before the release date. could be troubles. i also wouldn't be suprised if you need to do a firmware update to play the game, which will only be put out on the day of release.

just depends on where you go. EB has the basic version at $118, and the collectors are $128, so it's only $10 difference, but then JB hifi have the basic version for $109 and the collectors at $129. so it's either going to be $10 or $20 difference. oh i just found that dick smith has the basic version at $100, so if you do decide to go the basic version they might be the place to go.