mad082

if you don't floor it it should be fine, basically don't let it boost fully, drive it like a nanna and you should be fine.

going fat tyres will make the car accelerate slower and use more fuel as you will have more rolling resistance. only time it will help is when you dump the clutch while bashing it against the limiter. as for keeping up with wrx's, etc, +1 with everyone else on pissing themselves laughing. the engines may be rated at 141kw or whatever they are (that's for the sportivo version, the base versions don't have that much, they only have 100kw), but the actual torque output is still low. you will find that on a drag strip they aren't much faster than a SSS pulsar due to the fact that the sportivo engine is lacking in the lower part of the rev range. a non sportivo with the 1zz-fe will be slower than a SSS and run the 1/4 mile probably in low 16's. my sister has a 2006 corolla and while they go alright, it is much slower than the missus SSS. as for mods, as people have said, if you are worried about fuel economy, then don't do anything drastic. a set of 16 or 17" wheels with reasonably skinny tyres (so something like 195's or 205's to try to keep them as close to the stock width as possible) to make it look better is about all. about the 'self learning' ecu. the amount it learns is very minimal. it more learns driving habbits and tweaks a few things from there.

I think there will be a hell of a lot of people thinking/saying "we waited so long for this?" i will more than likely be one of them. i know it will be good, but for the ammount of delays it better give me a handjob everytime i play it

Well then you really don't have a leg to stand on. what's not to say the same guy didn't make the other site too? pretty sure that technically speaking the site creator owns the design not your company.

i know it's not a GTR, but my mate got his done on his r33 gts-t at the local suspension place. probably one of the first imports they had done (small town with only a handful of imports) but had no issues getting the parts.

who designed your company's site? was it in house or out sourced to a site designer? if it was in house, did they do the whole thing from scratch or did they use a template?

yeah i think you are right about the lack of spark ignition, but yeah the principle is pretty much the same. i think that in normal conditions though, the retardation of the timing by 1 or 2 degrees is going to have a very minimal effect on EGT's.

that would be an anti-lag system

there are 2 fuel lines, but only 1 is filtered because the second line is a return line, which takes fuel back to the tank.

is it the one with the voice control and he is saying "step on it", etc and it keeps repeating the wrong thing? if so, then yes that is a r35 gtr.

if it is over boosting then the ECU will cut the power. that is why before he spends any money on getting it professionally looked at (and spending money in the process), he could simply put a boost gauge on it and see what it's running at. if it's 13 or 14psi then that will be the problem and simply cleaning out the vaccum lines and actuator and making sure that the wastegate flap is able to open properly and isn't fouling on the dump pipe would be the things to do.

i pretty much started the engine out joke. basically the engine bay is such a tight fit that unless you have girly hands you will have a hard time doing some things. and if you drop a spanner, you pretty much won't see it again, LOL. you may hear the clang as it comes out while you are driving down the road though, LOL here's a pic of what i mean

if you have advanced it without using a timing light to see what it is set at and don't know if it's pinging, then yes and you are headed for a second blown engine.

pretty sure plugs will be the same.

have you put an aftermarket boost gauge on yet to see what boost pressure you are actually running? doing this could immediately tell you if the problem is boost related or not. would also be worth checking the timing. if it is too advanced then the ecu may be backing off the timing and adding in more fuel, making any missfire caused be weak coils/plugs worse.

they are good if you like flashy lights, etc. also good for checking that your o2 sensor is working and not making you get poor fuel economy. other than that, they serve no real purpose in tuning, etc as they work off (and are designed for) a narrow band o2 sensor. a wideband o2 sensor won't flicker much when cruising, etc, because what it classes as narrow and lean is a much bigger difference than a narrow band o2 sensor. narrow band works with roughly 14:1 as rich, 15:1 as lean. wide band will go down to about 10:1 for rich and up to about 20:1 for lean i think.

stagea has a buttload more power than an x-trail. torque wise (which is what matters when towing), the stagea has about 30% more torque. the reason being that the x-trail has a non turbo, 2.5L 4 cylinder, and the stagea has a 2.5L turbo 6. i found a car with the same power figures as an x-trail. a VRX lancer. would you think of towing a car with a VRX lancer? no. why? because it doesn't have the power. so then to think of towing with a car that has the same power but weighs a few hundred kg more is just silly. the x-trail weighs pretty much as much as a stagea. you would find fuel economy similar on day to day driving, although once you started to give it the beans then the stagea would drink a bit more. having said that, things like tyres for the x-trail will be a fair bit more than the stagea.

wouldn't be hard to get a better set of brake pads for it to help with the brake fade. fronzenwaffles, by ruling out utes and the aussie 6's and 'big cars' you are rulling out all of the best options for towing with. you are simply choosing the best of the worst options by going a soft roader. they are simply a small hatchback with a set of 4wd tyres on them really. if you really don't want to go a ute or a family car then you are best off going a diesel patrol or landcruiser wagon. ideally they are the best option anyway. they aren't the best option for daily driving in traffic though. you really have to really look at your priorities and go from there. do you want a good tow car, a good everyday car or something in between? you won't really find something that does all 3, and the option that is the best option for the inbetween is, unfortunately for you, a commodore or falcon. but there is also the option of a stagea to consider. personally i hate the look of the stagea, and would take a commodore or falcon wagon over one, that's why i never really said much about it before (even though you mentioned it in your first post). plus the fact that the running cost when towing will be much higher thanks to having to run on 98. plus the aussie cars and reasonably nice to drive. i've owned a few and my next daily will be one. the other option is, cut your budget in half. get something like a commodore or falcon for about 5k, and then spend the other 10k on something to use as a daily. then you can just use the commodore when you want to tow. only down side is that then you are paying 2 regos, etc.

being beaten to post an engine out joke = engine out

DTM only has 18 cars. and besides, the money also trickles into the mini series, v8 utes, and the konica series. if you can't tell the difference between a falcon and a commodore you need to get your eyes checked. it would be like not being able to tell the difference between a r34 and v35 skyline. headlights are totally different, falcons have the bulge on the bonnet, taillights are different, shape of the body is different, wings are different, etc. basically if you can tell the difference in the street cars you can tell the difference in the race cars.

going off your info in your profile, you have a r33 gts-t. they don't have an oil temp gauge, so no. even the water temp gauge isn't specific as it will sit in the middle of the gauge for about a 20 degree range and won't go above it until the coolant is pretty much boiling.

no point posting in here charlie as this is simply talking about the air conditioning compressor, which has nothing to do with the problem you are having. they are simply talking about the air con compressor cutting out, not the engine

with the idle adjustment screw. when the car is warm, turn it off, unplug the TPS, start the car again, rev it over 3000rpm i think it's 5 times in 3 seconds (so a quick stab of the accelerator to get it up over 3000rpm, lift off the throttle, when it drops down close to idle do it again, etc). this will lock it into base idle mode. then simply use the idle screw to drop the idle down. idle screw is located on the drivers side of the plenum towards the back (well it is on the rb25, so i assume it should be similar on the rb20).

the stock boost on the rb25's is about 7psi (0.5bar). i just read your post in the AC compressor thread where you said that it cuts out even if you just rev it on the spot in neutral. this rules out it being boost related. this puts it down to being something like the crank angle sensor or AFM or something like that. possibly even ecu related. my advice would be to get a consult cable (google ecutalk) and then you can check the ecu for fault codes (easier than doing it without a consult cable and just counting a flashing light). i'm guessing it will show some errors

7 is a colder heat range than 6. the 11 is simply the gap. 11 means 1.1mm gap. without the 11 on the end they have a 0.8mm gap.