mad082

Google ecutalk it's done by a guy on here who also does good cables cheap. i have one of his usb ones cause i don't have a serial port on my laptop

doesn't always give you better economy, at least not in my experience. over the past few months i have tried 3 different fuels (for a few weeks per brand to get a good idea of the economy, not just a 1 off). i've been using caltex 98, bp ultimate and united e10. i have found them all to be within a few % of each other. most times economy is within 0.5L/100km of each other no matter what type it is for similar types of driving. i get just as much variance between individual tanks of fuel of the 1 type as i did when i changed brands. for the extra cost of the 98 over the e10, it certainly didn't give enough of an economy increase to balance out. i should note that this was tested in the missus SSS pulsar.

if you don't care about 4wd and are happy with rwd then go the gt-t. will work out a lot cheaper. for the money you save buying the car you could have it modded to be much faster than the gtr. if you were thinking of making a 4wd gt-t with a heap of gtr stuff then just get the gtr to start with.

BP, my mate works there, LOL

turning circle of the magnas sucks arse though (trust me i owned 2). you don't notice it till you get to a carpark and where in any other car you could just swing in, you often have to do a 3 point turn. if you are just wanting to do a u-turn on the road though, if it's a bit wet just use the handbrake. probably the best car i have ever done a handbrake turn with, LOL. as for taking off in second in the xr8, with the tall diff ratios that they run, just to put it into perspective, that is pretty much like trying to take off in 3rd gear in a skyline, so naturally they will need a few revs to do it. generally speaking, each gear in a commodore or falcon is very close to the next gear in a turbo skyline, 180sx, etc. first gear in a commodore or falcon will be nearly as tall as second gear in a skyline. in the case of the auto's they can be taller.

it could just be that they paid for it themselves with the money their parents had been giving them for a few years

why stop at 20's? go 30's. remember the bigger the wheel the bigger your penis........

yeah i'd say it was a dud, and if it had extractors and a big exhaust it had probably had a hard life and big exhausts can drop low end torque as well. i've driven plenty of aussie 6's and only a few aussie 8's and even a stock aussie 6 below 3000rpm felt much much faster than my 33 did. come out of a corner at 20 or 30kmh in second gear and even with half throttle (or less) they would just pull nicely up to 60kmh.

"car loans" through banks are generally just secured loan and there are usually many more requirements that you have to meet to get the loan. you also have to have full comp insurance on the car. this is because the car becomes the security of the loan, meaning if you don't pay they reposes the car, and it also means that if someone does a search on the car they will find that there is money owing to a finance company. if you get a personal loan you can buy whatever car you like as you don't really have to tell the bank what you plan on buying with the money. these loans are a bit harder to get though. if you have gone through some sort of semi-dodgy finance company (such as motor wizard finance) then they may be a bit more picky about what cars you can get (motor wizard finance will only let you buy from one of their car yards, and even though they are interest free you just pay a buttload more for the car to start with so it balances out). other finance companies that just do cars will often charge a higher interest that banks, this is why they aren't as picky about who they lend to.

or, what if you happen to have a crash and smash into the back of a brand new merc because you took your eyes off the road for a split second and didn't see him hit the brakes and his insurance ran out and didn't realise. your few thousand dollars would barely cover the replacement of the badge, let alone the damage to your car. hell what if you simply hit another P plater in a 34 who is the same as you? then you have to buy 2 new 34's. or what about if you have a tyre fail, and you slam into a power pole and it has to be replaced? you do know that you can have to pay for that to be done, and that can be a few grand (know people who have had to pay). you can very quickly be out of pocket enough to pay for 10 years worth of insurance. in all the time i've had my licence i've probably spent close to 10k on insurance (had my licence for over 10 years now) and i've always had full comp and never made a claim. would i go back and change it to not having full comp? nope. i enjoying owning a car more knowing that if someone runs into me i don't have to worry about chasing them for money because the insurance company will do that and i won't be out of pocket.

it's natro? then yes you could, but you are better off using 95. just use e10 if you want to save money. just make sure it is a 94 or 95 octane e10.

depends on what state you are in to whether you are actually even getting bp ultimate from the bp bowser or not. in some states you may be getting ultimate from a shell bowser. it's all down to what companies have refineries in your state.

lamest spam ever?

i don't know what mods you have in your 34 (aren't you building up some big motor, or is that someone else?), but lets say (for arguments sake) you have the boost rasied up to 11psi or so, plus cooler and exhaust, your 34 would do the 1/4 mile in probably mid to high 13's. a stock late 90's and early 00's v8's will generally do the 1/4 mile in mid to high 14's, which put into perspective is pretty much what a dead stock r34 would do, but the v8's are harder to get off the line due to more torque causing wheelspin as well as much taller gearing (close to like taking off in second gear in a skyline).

just thinking about it, it shouldn't really alter AFR's at all. the reason being that at any given air flow rate the ecu should be putting in the same amount of fuel. if pods allowed more air into the intake the AFM would register this and inject the correct amount of fuel that it was tuned for. any difference in AFR's would purely come down to any turbulence where the AFM isn't able to 100% correctly measure the amount of airflow.

it should be fine. if you are worried simply get them to put it on the dyno and check the AFRs.

http://www.gtplanet.net/gran-turismo-5s-re...evealed-wspecs/ this will be interesting to drive. will definately need quick reflexes

obvious troll is obvious since f1 2010 was released in europe around the same time as everywhere else (late september)

you also have to remember that the torque profile of the big aussie 8's are totally different so they will feel different, possibly not as fast as they actually are. they tend to accelerate at pretty much the same rate from low in the rpm range to high rpm. they aren't like smaller cars where they accelerate slowly at low rpm and much faster at high rpm. v8's don't require you to scream their tits off to get anywhere like a small displacement engine. they will happily accelerate from 1500 rpm to 3000 rpm at quite a good pace. when i bought my 33 i was actually quite disapointed with how fast it was. it was stock and my manual v6 magna felt faster. also worth driving more than one in case the one you drove was a dud.

what do you mean it has the nismo bodykit? looks like the stock kit to me

i saw it on gtplanet a few weeks back. didn't think it was worth mentioning, lol. for the $50 or however much it is i don't think it's worth. hell i can barely see my ps3 where it sits, so putting that cover on it wouldn't do much for me. and i never take my ps3 anywhere, so it's not going to impress any of my mates, and most of them would have the same reaction i would to anyone who bought one: "you paid how much for a piece of plastic?" also amazon and i think gamestop in the US have stopped taking pre-orders for the signature or collectors edition (whichever comes with the model car) as they are saying it's sold out. not sure if it's just the amount they ordered that is, or the actual game. some other places are still taking pre-orders though, so it could just be that they haven't been told it's sold out, still have stock left from their order, or simply haven't updated their site. on an positive note, anyone going to the sydney motor show will get to see gt5. toyota is holding a 24 hr race of the Nurburgring starting tomoro. sadly though the teams have already been chosen. http://www.gtplanet.net/toyota-hosts-24-ho...enge-in-sydney/

yeah that is the common rattle if it goes away with pushing the clutch in. mine had it. usually caused by having a heavy duty clutch as you have extra stress on the bearing everytime you push the clutch in. when you push the clutch in the bearing presses against the pressure plate to let the clutch plate free from the flywheel, and since there is pressure on the bearing it goes quiet. the rattle when the clutch is out is because the bearing rattles from not having any pressure to hold it still. like having a loose nut or bolt. when you tighten it up it can't vibrate and make a noise. however if you are having issues with the clutch never fully disengaging then it may be a result of that as well and may be partially related. the creeping in gear can be caused by 1 of 2 things. 1: adjustment. 2: damaged pivot bolt of clutch fork. there is a 3rd possibility but it is generally much less common. that is the clutch fork not holding the bearing properly. unfortunately both 2 and 3 are gearbox out jobs.

YOU TAKE THAT BACK!!!! lol

the account the wow character is linked to probably isn't even this guy. he's probably just found someones account with that setup. just like the scams where people post up cars for sale they don't own.

does it go away when you push the clutch in?